03 ball joints

[gwunter]

Bro is looking at replacing the ball joints on his 03 6.0 4x4 with 68k on the clock. Still has original tires. Says he can feel play when up on jack stands. Truck has been meticuloualy maintained. 68k seems early for joints to me. Says he can also hear something up front when going over bumps.

1. What are the best joints to get?
2. Any special tools to get to do the job easier? Joint press?

Thanks.

 

[04MT]

I just did mine on my 04 with 164,000 miles. They were getting bad though. I took the knuckles out completely and used a press to remove and reinstall the ball joints. Just remember to torque the nuts on the joints to 70 ft/lbs, do not over tighten. It really helps to have that ATD tool for knocking the hub seal back in place. I did mine in about 3 hours or so.

 

[6.0 Tech]

I prefer oem joints, mine lasted to about 150k, the new ones have about 75 on them now and are still nice and tight.

As for tools, I use a snap on ball joint press, and it seems to work better than any of the other ball joint presses in the shop. It is pricey though, and if you're only gonna use it on e or twice, probably not worth the money. You could probably rent one from a parts store.

 

[04MT]

I forgot to mention that I went with the Raybestos joints. They are grease-able and have a lifetime warranty. You mentioned he had a noise in the front end, while his ball joints could be bad, other things to check while there are sway bar end links and cab bushings.

 

[lincolnlocker]

I prefer oem joints, mine lasted to about 150k, the new ones have about 75 on them now and are still nice and tight.

As for tools, I use a snap on ball joint press, and it seems to work better than any of the other ball joint presses in the shop. It is pricey though, and if you're only gonna use it on e or twice, probably not worth the money. You could probably rent one from a parts store.

how long ago did you put the second set of oem joints in? im not sure if i would recommend oem anymore with the issues i have been having with my steering linkage and trac bar and trac bar ball joint that got replaced with oem.. i did tie rod ends, drag link, trac bar and trac bar bj all before 100k and i have since then replaced the trac bar bj twice and drag link to pitman arm 3 times. and im about to do the trac bar again because the bushing on the frame side has forward and backwards play. not so much side to side like the oem one i replaced but still moves.

so, it is on its 3rd trac bar bj and 4th drag link to pitman arm joint..

the oem drag link to pitman arm joint that came with truck lasted 98k miles. second drag link to pitman arm joint lasted 7k miles, the 3rd lasted 1500 miles.. hopefully this one lasts longer as i drilled and tapped it for a zerk and put LE 3752 grease in it.

the oem trac bar bj lasted 84k miles, the second one lasted just over 25k miles and like the drag link joint, i drilled and tapped it for a zerk and put LE 3752 grease in that as well..

live life full throttle

 

[6.0 Tech]

Second set of joints was about 4 years ago.

 

[lincolnlocker]

Second set of joints was about 4 years ago.

10-4..


on the other hand, my oem ball joints are still tight.. knock on wood. hopefully i didn't just jinx myself.. lol..

live life full throttle

 

[6.0 Tech]

Lol. Ive had really good luck with the ball joints and front hubs. My drag link end at the pitman was loose just over a year after doing it. That was back when the warranty was just 12/12 instead of 2/unlimited. It wasnt terribly loose, and being a cheap ass, i didnt replace it again. It hasnt gotten any looser though. Its probably 1/16in before the drag link moves.

 

[gwunter]

Are greasable the only way to go? Or are the fully sealed units OK. And what seal tool is 04mt referring to?

 

[6.0 Tech]

He is referring to the large vacuum seal for the knuckle tool. There is a special tool, but a hammer anf brass punch works as well, if you change the seal. My oe replacements are greaseable, from the factory they are not, that is all personal preference i think...