I have an 05 F250 with 98000 miles. Been having the symptoms of starting fine when cold. It would run and drive fine but couldn’t shut off. If I shut it off then it wouldn’t start or I’d have to crank for a longtime for it to start back up. From what I’ve read this is common symptoms of the STC fitting on the HPOP. Well the other day I was driving it and towing another vehicle. I was backing up the trailer and it surged a few times then died. I received code for ICP being too low to continue and now it won’t start at all. It’s very slow to crank over almost like the batteries are dead but I just put new batteries in and they are fully charged. Not sure if it’s all connected or if there’s a different problem now?
05 f250 hard starting when warm
- Thread starter ccain85
- Start date
Zeb
New member
Your hard start while hot could have been the STC fitting if it is the original style, stand pipe orings, dummy plug orings, or the oring in the top of the injector(s) failing.
A complete failure of any of them can cause it to die and not restart.
The slow crank is probably a dead starter from repeated extended cranking sessions.
A complete failure of any of them can cause it to die and not restart.
The slow crank is probably a dead starter from repeated extended cranking sessions.
I don’t think the STC fitting was replaced to the new style. I had driven several times with the hot starting issue. Never had problems with it driving or idling. Just didn’t want to start back up after until it cooled completely. Video of cranking https://youtu.be/tAd8VZMLxtc
what Zeb is getting at is that when you have a leak you generally see it when its hot and you restart, partial leak somewhwere. As it progresses and gets worse then it can die at an idle because the pump cannot keep up at idle and then it wont restart. My guess is there is a high pressure leak somwhere but it could be a handful of places as mentioned above. The good thing about a big leak is they are much easier to find.
Zeb
New member
Exactly what I was trying to say.
The places I listed are usually the culprits. The oring begins to erode and cause a hot start issue. Finally it erodes badly enough, or tears, and you’ve got one that dies while idling and won’t restart, or simply wont build enough pressure to start.
An air test thru the IPR port is the quickest way to track this issue down.
The slow starter is a separate issue, most likely caused by excessive cranking.
03_PSD
Member
Your voltage dropped pretty good, time for batteries.
I just put those batteries in and fully charged them.
It is likely to be a starter issue, but that said - even new batteries can be bad. Seen it too many times. Just checking static voltage isn't a good way to be sure of battery health. A load test is best.
If you are watching the ICP value when cranking, and your cranking rpms are that slow, you will never get a good ICP reading.
Be aware that the minimum rpm to start is around 150.
If you don't believe you need to load test the batteries, then probably should check all the starter wires and connections and if they are good, then install a new starter.
If you are watching the ICP value when cranking, and your cranking rpms are that slow, you will never get a good ICP reading.
Be aware that the minimum rpm to start is around 150.
If you don't believe you need to load test the batteries, then probably should check all the starter wires and connections and if they are good, then install a new starter.
Zeb
New member
Glad you figured it out.
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