My motor is about to be pulled out of the truck to rebuild. When I went to check on it today, they showed me what looked like shavings coming through the passenger side up pipe. I didn’t put my hands on them, but it did look like shavings. The up pipe also seemed to be damp. What could it be from? I should find out tomorrow when they pull the heads and start pulling lifters as well.
06 getting some work done
- Thread starter Diesel625
- Start date
Zeb
New member
I can’t comment on their iron heads, but I have used, and really like, their aluminum heads.
For the difference in price, weight, durability, etc, if you plan on keeping the truck, do the aluminum ones.
oke:
Their urn heads have hrld up fairly well. Pulled a ste off a truck with about 750 hp, that had thrown a rod. Had cracks around the valves as well, but with the pressed in valve seats, was not an issue. Theyre actually running on another motor right now with 0 issues.
Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
Got an update on my motor. The cam bearings were definitely worn, and several lifters were pretty worn down. The block still had crosshatching on all but 2 cylinders, and the crank bearings were worn down too. A piece of metal went through the lpop, and scarred up the front cover. I was thinking of going ahead and rebuilding like originally planned, but I’m leaning towards a built long block instead. Maybe since I plan on keeping the truck for a very long time, I’d rather do the long block. I’m thinking of running a kill devil stage 1, but upgrade to a colt stage 2 cam and Chrome moly push rods. It was suggested to me to run a choate engineering workhorse long block. Any suggestions or experiences would be welcomed. Also, I’m glad to see the old 6.0 made it to 335k miles of very hard work before anything major had to be done. The previous owner ran 15w40 motorcraft oil and filters and serviced it every 3k. after I bought it, I switched to Schaeffers 5w40 with motorcraft filters, and serviced it every 5k.
175/stock injectors are a terrible idea. Stock nozzles will not dump 175ccs. Change them to 30s before they get built and shipped.
Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
Zeb
New member
Why do you say they’re a terrible idea?
I’ve used them quite a bit, and like them, on towing setups. I’ve also seen them make right at 500hp with a small non-vgt.
Curious what you don’t like about them.
From what I’ve gathered, and talked to a few people about, the 175/stock seems to fit exactly what I’m looking for. I just want to build a reliable truck that tows max gvwr, no egt issues, and runs clean. If I can make 500hp, that’s fine. Although, that’s not what I’m looking for. As long as it tows really good, that’s my main goal. If I want to make more power, I’ll just use the old lb7 instead.
I think the extra ccs is a waste, as the nozzles wont dump it. If youre planning on stock nozzles, why not save the coin and go with 155s, as thats what the nozzle about maxxes out at. If youve got 175s, and are only dumping 155cc worth whats the point of the bigger body?
Its not like the difference between 155, 175 and 190 with 30s on them, as yhe 30s will dump all those body sizes without issue.
Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
Zeb
New member
A stock nozzle will dump well over 175cc’s at 2.4 ms. I’ll have to run one on the bench and get some numbers. Been awhile since I have.
That said, a 175/30 will make more power because you can dump more fuel at a more desirable time in the injection window.
Last edited:
Ok,I stand corrected then. I was told 155s were about max of a stock nozzle, so there wouldnt be any point of going any bigger without bumping nozzle sizes.
I'll be over here in the corner now, dont mind me... LOL
Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
Zeb
New member
Zeb
New member
It should do quite well. I run a 1.8ms tune on our 450 that tows heavy all the time.
I’m not a big fan of FICM tuning and ECM tuning combined on a small injector.
