weekendwarriorfsw32
New member
Well Im ready to take my 725 hp Excursion to the next level. My current set up to get me to 725 was 190/75's, a Barder 68vgt, a T-500 HPOP and a small shot of spray and only motor mods were Arp studs and blown head gaskets when I did that. The truck has been sled pulling and drag racing constantly at that power for 2 years with a ton of 12.00 passes and full pulls all on a stock trans to boot.
So here is what I have so far planed for whats next, the engine is down at the machinist as we speak with a 4,700 dollar bill to repair the block from the damage from blown head gaskets to the deck with involves spray welding and machining it flat, line honing for main studs, punching it out to .010 over on the bores, and balancing the entire rotating assembly.
So here is my first real question I'm thinking about starting with a brand new block form ford for 1,900 and then taking that block down and having them check it out. My next question is for my build is a line hone and main studs worth it? I know the bottom ends are very strong as it is so just seeing if its worth that can of worms to line hone it, I already have the main studs to.
From there I have a set of R&R rods from Midwest and some H-13 tool steel tapered wrist pins from River City connected to Riffraff Diesel Coated and fly cut valve relief pistons, Rudys Diesel billet LPOP, so I should be pretty good there. Which main and rod bearings are people using Mahle or King and use stock rings or total seal rings?
Next up is the heads I bought a set from a really big name and they were compete junk, from the used valves they used, the ****ty valve seat job, and the crappy crack repairs. So from there I went with a set of ProMaxx heads that I bought some OEM ford valves, smith brothers push rods, colt valve springs and will be O-ringed and some slight porting work on and held down with some Extreme studs from No Limit top it off with a Odawg stage 3 intake to get some air flowing into it and some BD exhaust manifolds to get it flowing out of it.
Now turbo and fuel, I sent my 68mm to Barder to get machined into a 71mm which should handle the spray better but I still want to fab up a waist gate but trying to figure out the best way to go about this with still using stock up pipes. Was playing around with trying to weld a flange onto one of the exhaust manifolds but with clearance I'm not so sure, another thought was putting back on a factory passenger side exhaust manifold with the EGR provision and putting a gate there and then just plumbing it into the downpipe or my hood stack but I need to pick a gate size so I can order one and start playing with space but not sure what size mm gate will work best for me so I need input there. Fuel will be some 225's for right now to break it in and then stepping up to a hybrid most likely in the 300's once the motor is broken in.
I will also be doing a two stage progressive nitrous set up from Nitrous express to make sure I hit that 1,000 hp goal.
What I really want to hear tho is feed back on my bottom end build from some people with experience in those higher horsepowers and seeing if thats the right receipt.
So here is what I have so far planed for whats next, the engine is down at the machinist as we speak with a 4,700 dollar bill to repair the block from the damage from blown head gaskets to the deck with involves spray welding and machining it flat, line honing for main studs, punching it out to .010 over on the bores, and balancing the entire rotating assembly.
So here is my first real question I'm thinking about starting with a brand new block form ford for 1,900 and then taking that block down and having them check it out. My next question is for my build is a line hone and main studs worth it? I know the bottom ends are very strong as it is so just seeing if its worth that can of worms to line hone it, I already have the main studs to.
From there I have a set of R&R rods from Midwest and some H-13 tool steel tapered wrist pins from River City connected to Riffraff Diesel Coated and fly cut valve relief pistons, Rudys Diesel billet LPOP, so I should be pretty good there. Which main and rod bearings are people using Mahle or King and use stock rings or total seal rings?
Next up is the heads I bought a set from a really big name and they were compete junk, from the used valves they used, the ****ty valve seat job, and the crappy crack repairs. So from there I went with a set of ProMaxx heads that I bought some OEM ford valves, smith brothers push rods, colt valve springs and will be O-ringed and some slight porting work on and held down with some Extreme studs from No Limit top it off with a Odawg stage 3 intake to get some air flowing into it and some BD exhaust manifolds to get it flowing out of it.
Now turbo and fuel, I sent my 68mm to Barder to get machined into a 71mm which should handle the spray better but I still want to fab up a waist gate but trying to figure out the best way to go about this with still using stock up pipes. Was playing around with trying to weld a flange onto one of the exhaust manifolds but with clearance I'm not so sure, another thought was putting back on a factory passenger side exhaust manifold with the EGR provision and putting a gate there and then just plumbing it into the downpipe or my hood stack but I need to pick a gate size so I can order one and start playing with space but not sure what size mm gate will work best for me so I need input there. Fuel will be some 225's for right now to break it in and then stepping up to a hybrid most likely in the 300's once the motor is broken in.
I will also be doing a two stage progressive nitrous set up from Nitrous express to make sure I hit that 1,000 hp goal.
What I really want to hear tho is feed back on my bottom end build from some people with experience in those higher horsepowers and seeing if thats the right receipt.
