2004 6.0 shut off when warm and I have a scangauge2

Cgrigson1

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Thanks man. Let me see what i can figure out. I understand that I shouldn't hear anything when I put air to the hole on the top. I can hook air to the ICP and put my finger over the hole on the pump and see what I hear and if I hear oil bubbling under the pump or in the oil filter housing it's likely bad right?
 

Cgrigson1

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Man I super appreciate all your help. I'm about to get on it and first put air into ICP hole and listen for anything at all around the pump. So at the bottom of that fitting on the top of the pump where the hole that feeds the IPR is normal to leak a little at where it attaches to the pump? There was defffinalty air coming out of there yesterday
 

Cgrigson1

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My pump. Top oring broken

It seems to turn fine feels fluid but top oring was broken which explains the air coming out to the fitting on top? Could this be my only issue? Can I buy just st that oring for the top?
 

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jake74

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Turn the pump on its side and where it bolts down on the drivers side there should be a steel ball plugging a hole. If it's gone there's your problem. Usually if it's gone the truck will show very low oil pressure on dash gauge when idling. If gone some have had success taping the hole and treading a flush mount plug in but it's a crap shoot if the pump has been damaged already. It's worth a shot as a pump ain't cheap.
 

6.0 Tech

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That oring could definitely be your problem, but as stated, also check and make sure the ball is in the pump, and thst the seal appears flush. If it is just that oring, yes you can buy them separately. Dont be cheap though and only put that o ring in. You will need toreplace all 3 (yellow, small black, and big black). Also get a new pump cover gasket, and when you reinstall it put a dime sized dab of silicone where the rear cover meets the block on both sides, otherwise you will habe an oil leak later.
 

Cgrigson1

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I just went ahead and bought a pump and it's in turbo is back on which was a bit hard to get in and into place I must say. Gonna batten her down tomorrow. I did put silicone on the back corners. I also bought oil to change it. That ring I showed you was the only one I replaced and new gasket as well. the others were like brand new. A little concern is the little plastic piece that sets on top of the spring on the oil filter tube is gone and I haven't been able to find it. I looked down in the filter housing and it's not there, hopefully it fell outside of It. I feel like it's not a big deal if it's not there when I put it back in?
 

Cgrigson1

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And my pump had no ball. Maybe they did replace it when rebuilt, it looked exactly like the new one I bought. I did air test it before I went to buy one and heard a little air coming from behind the gear but like you said, might just have only needed the damn oring. Oh well
 

6.0 Tech

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I hope reusing the 2 orings doesnt come back to bite you. Hopefully it will take care of it for you! As far as the check valve in the oil filter stand pipe, on monday i would head back to the dealer and get a new stand pipe. Dont exactly remember what that check valve does, but its probably necessary. If i remember right, the stand pipes are about 75 bucks.
 

Cgrigson1

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I'm about $75 bucked out. I broke the y pipe under the degas bottle and that cost me $65. Those oring were fine man I checked em. Happy new year, I'm staying in tonight it's cheaper and way safer
 

Cgrigson1

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I do want to get new pigtails for those sensors on my harness with frayed ends. I'll put a list together and maybe you can tell me if their available or not I heard somewhere that not all of em are
 

Cgrigson1

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She's ready for key on engine on. I understand it's gonna run like crap until the air is purged out and will hook a battery charger up to it as I try to start it for i hear it may take a few minutes to get that pump primed
 

6.0 Tech

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Good deal man! Usually doent take a couple minuts, but 45 sec to 1 minute is typical. Enough to need 2-3 key cycls to not burn up the starter.
 

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