2006 icp p2285 issue long crank

jrex2506 · Oct 11, 2023

Truck was running good and stock turbo blew on me and i replaced the turbo with non vgt. I found shavings, possibly brass colored in the filter housing i thought were from the turbo bearings.

Now i had the truck stumbled coming up a mountain, and a p2285 code. I went ahead and replaced the icp and pigtail. Cranking when cold takes a long crank to build icp, once it hits 500 its starts. So dont think its the sensor or pigtail. At 32 degrees cold idle, my ipr stays around 34% until warm and the icp around 1200. Once it warms it cranks back fine, mainly the start up. Could this be a hpop? I replaced hg while back and new plugs, cooler, and stc fitting along with injectors.

Also motor seems louder than normal. Cant quite say what it is, but the longer cranks and noise are a concern. Thanks

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jrex2506 · Oct 11, 2023

I also keep seeing oil in the valley i thought was from the other turbo, but after installing and running this i still have a leak not coming from the turbo.

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jrex2506 · Oct 13, 2023

P1284 also came up. Going to pull the IPR out and check the screen.

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Powerstroke Cowboy · Oct 15, 2023

The noise could simply be going from a vgt to a non vgt turbo. It will be louder with more open exhaust housing.

The long crank sounds like your loosing oil through leaking o-rings.

jrex2506 · Oct 17, 2023

Like which ones cause ive replaced them all in the top end most likely to leak as well as new stc fitting, injectors, stand and dummy pipes, new oil cooler as well.

This is usually on cold starts the long cranks.

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Powerstroke Cowboy · Oct 17, 2023

My brothers 6.0 was doing the same thing. Even after changing the stand and dummy pipes and stc fitting. His ended up being a bad O-ring on the IPR valve.

jrex2506 · Oct 18, 2023

Im going to pull the ipr and check the screen and oring for damage. And then go from there.

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DEEZUZ · Oct 18, 2023

Why don't we leak check the system first with shop air?

I don't care if you replaced all the tubes and plugs. Improper install and cheapo parts can bite you.

I just had a E series in that had the stc, tubes and plugs on both sides changed 6 months ago at another shop. They were all 3 blown the **** out... It was unreal explaining that.

Psi test it and go from there.

Powerstroke Cowboy · Oct 18, 2023

DEEZUZ said:
Why don't we leak check the system first with shop air?

I don't care if you replaced all the tubes and plugs. Improper install and cheapo parts can bite you.

I just had a E series in that had the stc, tubes and plugs on both sides changed 6 months ago at another shop. They were all 3 blown the **** out... It was unreal explaining that.

Psi test it and go from there.

Yes, cheap parts or bad install will do the same thing! Been there done that, with cheap parts. Only lasted a couple month, same problem, went back in with the updated OEM parts and problem solved.

6.0 Tech · Oct 18, 2023

DEEZUZ said:
Why don't we leak check the system first with shop air?

I don't care if you replaced all the tubes and plugs. Improper install and cheapo parts can bite you.

I just had a E series in that had the stc, tubes and plugs on both sides changed 6 months ago at another shop. They were all 3 blown the **** out... It was unreal explaining that.

Psi test it and go from there.

Not even just cheap parts, I had a leak on my truck after about 20k, pulled it apart, had both standpipes had about blown out o rings, and both dummy plugs had a bit of wear on them. Replaced it with a whole new kit. Made it about 40mi before had a hot start issue again. Pulled it apart after leak checking, found a 1 1/2in vertical crack in the bottom half of the rh stand pipe.

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DEEZUZ · Oct 18, 2023

I've got hundreds of sets out there my hands put in.

You all using the OE parts?

6e7z9a332a and w302908...

Also what's your install lube of choice?

Also, when tightening are you going 2-4 turns then waiting 10 seconds to continue, then when seating the top tube into lower through the rail, mostly on passenger side, are you leaving the entire rail kinda loose so square up the tube?

6.0 Tech · Oct 19, 2023

DEEZUZ said:
I've got hundreds of sets out there my hands put in.

You all using the OE parts?

6e7z9a332a and w302908...

Also what's your install lube of choice?

Also, when tightening are you going 2-4 turns then waiting 10 seconds to continue, then when seating the top tube into lower through the rail, mostly on passenger side, are you leaving the entire rail kinda loose so square up the tube?

Using factory stuff. Can’t remember the part number right now for the complete kit. Seem to have had better luck with individual parts. I do usually have the rail kinda loose when putting them in, but typically don’t take the stand pipes apart to install. I use motor oil as lube.

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jrex2506 · Nov 5, 2023

I only use oem parts. So finally got around to looking at it. Been sitting a month and took 25 seconds to build enough pressure to move gauge on dash and then finally fired. I pulled the ipr, had some ferrous metal shavings, not much, but a lot of brass material on screen. Any ideas? Thinking i need to look at hpop and lpop and check them.

Ipr was at 64% when cranking.

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6.0 Tech · Nov 5, 2023

jrex2506 said:
I only use oem parts. So finally got around to looking at it. Been sitting a month and took 25 seconds to build enough pressure to move gauge on dash and then finally fired. I pulled the ipr, had some ferrous metal shavings, not much, but a lot of brass material on screen. Any ideas? Thinking i need to look at hpop and lpop and check them.

Ipr was at 64% when cranking. View attachment 187281

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Well that don’t look good. Get a manual oil pressure gauge on it, it may be taking too long to build base pressure before it fires.

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jrex2506 · Nov 5, 2023

Where else could the material come from being brass?

At this point i am gonna swap out the hpop cause i got a spare. Ill pull cover and probably replace the lpop since its building slow as well as change oil cooler and check that screen too. Do an air check on the system.

Was running good, but forever cranking, worse cold than hot, just doesnt seem like it has as much power as it did and the motor just doesnt sound right. It stumbled towing up a mountain and then ive had trouble ever since.

Any advice would be helpful far as what it could be.

Powerstroke Cowboy · Nov 5, 2023

There is a brass plunger in the oil system for the oil cooler bypass valve. Could be the oil cooler.

Also the HPOP does have brass internal components.

There's also the bearings in the turbo. But, you can rule that out.

Check your hpop reservoir screen to see if it has brass shavings on it as well.

6.0 Tech · Nov 6, 2023

jrex2506 said:
Where else could the material come from being brass?

At this point i am gonna swap out the hpop cause i got a spare. Ill pull cover and probably replace the lpop since its building slow as well as change oil cooler and check that screen too. Do an air check on the system.

Was running good, but forever cranking, worse cold than hot, just doesnt seem like it has as much power as it did and the motor just doesnt sound right. It stumbled towing up a mountain and then ive had trouble ever since.

Any advice would be helpful far as what it could be.

Are you sure it’s brass, and not copper?

It is odd for an 05+ pump to shit the bed, can count in one hand how many I’ve changed, and 3 were on our race truck, so I don’t really think those count.

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DEEZUZ · Nov 6, 2023

At this point I'd be cutting off the ends of oil filter and spreading the media out and looking it over.

We might be looking at cam/lifter failure in early stages.

jrex2506 · Nov 6, 2023

I saved some oil and the filter when i changed it and found this. I cant believe if it was a cam/lifter, that i would be having so much trouble building oil pressure for it to start. Im fairly certain its brass. But ill cut the filter and double check. What was on top of the filter was definitely brass when i noticed the shavings.

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bismic · Nov 6, 2023

A recent thread on a RCD "thumper" HPOP ('05+). 7 yrs old, 90k miles on it. The OP stated his original one lasted 11 years. Mine is still going at 16 years in service, along with the original injectors, most of that being tuned.

Brass shavings on IPR screen again. Long cranks cold cranks. - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

6.0L Power Stroke Diesel - Brass shavings on IPR screen again. Long cranks cold cranks. - 2006 6.0L truck had issues where desired icp and actual was not matching and long cranks to start. I replaced the ipr (old one had tiny particles on it barely concerning considering that it was years and...

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