My factory turbo finally started leaking oil after 333k. I decided to go ahead and upgrade it to a kc stage 1. I installed it, and it feel like it’s a small gain in performance. I run quicktricks and TSD tunes. Both the tow tunes feel good throughout the entire rpm range. The mpd tune feels great with full throttle, but not at partial throttle. The same goes for the quicktricks tunes. I don’t have much done to my truck performance wise, except for egr ******, Atlas 40 ficm tune, and a 5” cat back exhaust, and the sct 5015 tuner. What kind of tunes work good with the kc stage 1? I am also on stock bolts, and am not looking to make a huge amount of power until I stud it. I would like to have a good tow tune that keeps the egts down. Also, what boost numbers should I be seeing? Thanks.
2006 tunes with kc stage 1
- Thread starter Diesel625
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sootie
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such a minor difference in the turbo, any box tune or factory file will work. If you have drivability issues, something else is wrong with the truck.
I decided to return to stock and drive around some, then reload a custom tune. I drove about 150 miles to work, then on the way home, I decided to load the mpd tune. It ran great. It will now hit 30 psi and respond very quickly. It has quick response at just about any rpm. I’m happy with it so far. I will get to pull with it this upcoming week. I’m going to try the mpd 1.6 and see what it does.
We highly recommend checking for boost/exhaust leaks. New parts leak all the time so it does not matter how old your boots and clamps are. I would say 95% off all customers that call in with "new turbo issues" end up being a boost/exhaust leak. It can also be a sensor crapping out, chaffed wire, etc... I will type up and post some tips/tricks below for 6.0 turbos.
For anything bigger than stock we recommend getting custom tunes. It is not "required" but highly recommended. Heck we even recommend custom tunes for 100% stock turbos.. they make a big difference.
Remember these turbos are computer controlled... so any gains you might see with a larger turbo will be pulled back in "stock turbo" tuning.
For anything bigger than stock we recommend getting custom tunes. It is not "required" but highly recommended. Heck we even recommend custom tunes for 100% stock turbos.. they make a big difference.
Remember these turbos are computer controlled... so any gains you might see with a larger turbo will be pulled back in "stock turbo" tuning.
If the vanes are "stuck" then you can usually tell by monitoring the truck.* VGT duty cycle will either be stuck at .15 or .85
Here is another test to see if your vanes are cycling.* This a simple test, just plug and unplug the vgt solenoid while the truck is idling.* You should easily hear the vanes cycle and exhaust note change.* If you hear no change (assuming all your sensors are working properly) then we can try to work the air out of the system.* Repeat this process a few times, unplug and plug the solenoid back in.* THEN tap on the vgt solenoid with a hammer (the metal part that sticks out of the front of the turbo through the bracket, NOT the plastic clip), *then tap on the back of the turbo where the vgt cavity is (see picture below where the red arrow is pointing).* Then unplug and plug the vgt solenoid back in.* Do this 4 or 5 times to see if it gets the vanes cycling.* EVEN WHEN the vanes start to cycle you can continue the process a few more times to get the air worked out of the system.
After you get the vanes cycling I would RELOAD the same tune.* That way it resets the KAM and it will re learn the vane position and shifitng points.* I would then do a trans relearn which will also help with a turbo relearn.
Set the truck back to stock (unload the tune).
Unplug the batteries and let it sit for an hour
Touch the positive to negative cables a few times to make sure all the power is drained.
Plug the batteries back in and load the tune
Spend a minute sitting there idling and moving the shift lever from P to R to N to D to N to R to P etc.
Then go for a drive.* Take it easy and stay under 1/4 throttle for about 10 minutes.* Make sure it is stop and go driving so the tranny can shift through the gears.
After about 10 minutes the do a couple of 1/2 thorttle runs.* Then do a couple 3/4 throttle runs.* Then finally do a couple of WOT runs.
After that I would suggest double checking for boost/exhaust leaks.* Even brand new parts can get misaligned and leak.
Exhaust leaks are a big problem.* Bigger turbos will usually make leaks worse.* Check the ypipe bellows and the ypipe to turbo connection.* Those are very common.* An easy way to check it would be to have someone stick the truck in drive, hold the brake, and give it some gas.* Push the pedal as hard as you can without causing the truck to move.* Look for any smoke coming out from behind the turbo.* If you see any smoke then you need to find and fix the leak.* It is best to be running a race tune and just MASH the throttle, then when the tire are about to spin let off and try again.* You want to produce black smoke if possible because it is easier to see.
Watch this video to see how to check for exhaust leaks*https://youtu.be/nOpO4gGS0vc
Watch this video to see how to fix common 6.0 exhaust leaks*https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxvcg7piROI
Boost leaks are also a big problem.* The most common areas are the boots on the charge pipe, plastic ends on the intercooler, and the plastic hot side charge pipe on the drivers side.* If you have a plastic charge pipe on your drivers side then replace it ASAP.* They will not hold up under high boost.* We recommend pressurizing the intake to test for leaks.* Pressurize through the turbo inlet up to about 20-25psi and listen for leaks.* The best option is a boost leak detector from dieselsite.* Here is a link.
http://www.dieselsite.com/dieselsiteturboboostleakdetector-4.aspx
Pull and check all of the following sensors.* Use your programmer to make sure they are reading right.
BARO sensor is located under the dashboard.* Make sure it is plugged in and reading right.* The BARO reads barometric pressure.* Depending on your elevation it varies from 13.9-14.5 typically.
MAP sensor located on passenger side by the air box.* Make sure the tube going from the sensor to the motor is not cracked.* Make sure the tube and sensor are clean and not clogged up.* The MAP sensor should read the same as the BARO sensor with the key on engine off.* Then as you build boost it should go up with boost.* The boost sensor actually reads off of the MAP sensor, but it subtracts BARO to get boost.* So (MAP - BARO = Boost).**
MAF sensor is located between the air filter and turbo.* Make sure it is clean and plugged in.* It should read zero #/min with the key on engine off and it should go up as you accelerate.* Make sure it is not stuck on any certain number
EBP sensor is located off the exhaust manifold on the drivers side.* There is a tube going from the exhaust manifold to the sensor.* It is very common to clog and have issues.* Clean out the tube and make sure the sensor is not clogged.* EBP should read 0psi with the key on engine off.* Then it will go up with boost.* EBP will always be 5-15psi higher than boost when acceleration.* There is no set number for EBP, just make sure it is not stuck on any certain number.* NOTE:* SCT devices will not read EBP psi correctly... but you can still uses it to figure out your issue.45-50psi on your SCT is really 0-1psi100-120psi on your sct is really 10-15psi170-180psi is really 37-40psi
IAT sensor is connected to the top of the intake manifold near the fuel bowl.* Pull it out and make sure it is clean.* It is very common to get covered in crap.* Clean it and make sure it is connected right.
VGT solenoid.* The vgt wire/pigtail are very common to have cracks, slices, and breaks in it, especially right where it plugs into the solenoid.* Double check everything to make sure it is working right.* An easy way to check and see if it is working right is while the truck is running. plug and unplug the sensor.* You should be able to hear the exhaust sound changing when you do that.* Your VGT duty cycle is only reading "desired vgt"* NOT actual!!!... that that is only reading what the computer is requesting.* .14 is all the way open and .85 is all the way closed.* It should never be stuck on any number.* (but a stuck number does not always mean stuck vanes, for example if you vanes are all the way open (rumble at idle) and the vgt duty cycle is stuck at .14... then the vanes are not stuck, the computer is commanding the vanes open because there is another sensor not reading right and the computer is trying to compensate for that.
These don't relate directly to boost but it is still a good thing to check.* They can really hurt performance.
ICP sensor
IPR
FICM (make sure voltage is good)
YouTube boost leak video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=flV24cxn1vY&t=2s
Here is another test to see if your vanes are cycling.* This a simple test, just plug and unplug the vgt solenoid while the truck is idling.* You should easily hear the vanes cycle and exhaust note change.* If you hear no change (assuming all your sensors are working properly) then we can try to work the air out of the system.* Repeat this process a few times, unplug and plug the solenoid back in.* THEN tap on the vgt solenoid with a hammer (the metal part that sticks out of the front of the turbo through the bracket, NOT the plastic clip), *then tap on the back of the turbo where the vgt cavity is (see picture below where the red arrow is pointing).* Then unplug and plug the vgt solenoid back in.* Do this 4 or 5 times to see if it gets the vanes cycling.* EVEN WHEN the vanes start to cycle you can continue the process a few more times to get the air worked out of the system.
After you get the vanes cycling I would RELOAD the same tune.* That way it resets the KAM and it will re learn the vane position and shifitng points.* I would then do a trans relearn which will also help with a turbo relearn.
Set the truck back to stock (unload the tune).
Unplug the batteries and let it sit for an hour
Touch the positive to negative cables a few times to make sure all the power is drained.
Plug the batteries back in and load the tune
Spend a minute sitting there idling and moving the shift lever from P to R to N to D to N to R to P etc.
Then go for a drive.* Take it easy and stay under 1/4 throttle for about 10 minutes.* Make sure it is stop and go driving so the tranny can shift through the gears.
After about 10 minutes the do a couple of 1/2 thorttle runs.* Then do a couple 3/4 throttle runs.* Then finally do a couple of WOT runs.
After that I would suggest double checking for boost/exhaust leaks.* Even brand new parts can get misaligned and leak.
Exhaust leaks are a big problem.* Bigger turbos will usually make leaks worse.* Check the ypipe bellows and the ypipe to turbo connection.* Those are very common.* An easy way to check it would be to have someone stick the truck in drive, hold the brake, and give it some gas.* Push the pedal as hard as you can without causing the truck to move.* Look for any smoke coming out from behind the turbo.* If you see any smoke then you need to find and fix the leak.* It is best to be running a race tune and just MASH the throttle, then when the tire are about to spin let off and try again.* You want to produce black smoke if possible because it is easier to see.
Watch this video to see how to check for exhaust leaks*https://youtu.be/nOpO4gGS0vc
Watch this video to see how to fix common 6.0 exhaust leaks*https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxvcg7piROI
Boost leaks are also a big problem.* The most common areas are the boots on the charge pipe, plastic ends on the intercooler, and the plastic hot side charge pipe on the drivers side.* If you have a plastic charge pipe on your drivers side then replace it ASAP.* They will not hold up under high boost.* We recommend pressurizing the intake to test for leaks.* Pressurize through the turbo inlet up to about 20-25psi and listen for leaks.* The best option is a boost leak detector from dieselsite.* Here is a link.
http://www.dieselsite.com/dieselsiteturboboostleakdetector-4.aspx
Pull and check all of the following sensors.* Use your programmer to make sure they are reading right.
BARO sensor is located under the dashboard.* Make sure it is plugged in and reading right.* The BARO reads barometric pressure.* Depending on your elevation it varies from 13.9-14.5 typically.
MAP sensor located on passenger side by the air box.* Make sure the tube going from the sensor to the motor is not cracked.* Make sure the tube and sensor are clean and not clogged up.* The MAP sensor should read the same as the BARO sensor with the key on engine off.* Then as you build boost it should go up with boost.* The boost sensor actually reads off of the MAP sensor, but it subtracts BARO to get boost.* So (MAP - BARO = Boost).**
MAF sensor is located between the air filter and turbo.* Make sure it is clean and plugged in.* It should read zero #/min with the key on engine off and it should go up as you accelerate.* Make sure it is not stuck on any certain number
EBP sensor is located off the exhaust manifold on the drivers side.* There is a tube going from the exhaust manifold to the sensor.* It is very common to clog and have issues.* Clean out the tube and make sure the sensor is not clogged.* EBP should read 0psi with the key on engine off.* Then it will go up with boost.* EBP will always be 5-15psi higher than boost when acceleration.* There is no set number for EBP, just make sure it is not stuck on any certain number.* NOTE:* SCT devices will not read EBP psi correctly... but you can still uses it to figure out your issue.45-50psi on your SCT is really 0-1psi100-120psi on your sct is really 10-15psi170-180psi is really 37-40psi
IAT sensor is connected to the top of the intake manifold near the fuel bowl.* Pull it out and make sure it is clean.* It is very common to get covered in crap.* Clean it and make sure it is connected right.
VGT solenoid.* The vgt wire/pigtail are very common to have cracks, slices, and breaks in it, especially right where it plugs into the solenoid.* Double check everything to make sure it is working right.* An easy way to check and see if it is working right is while the truck is running. plug and unplug the sensor.* You should be able to hear the exhaust sound changing when you do that.* Your VGT duty cycle is only reading "desired vgt"* NOT actual!!!... that that is only reading what the computer is requesting.* .14 is all the way open and .85 is all the way closed.* It should never be stuck on any number.* (but a stuck number does not always mean stuck vanes, for example if you vanes are all the way open (rumble at idle) and the vgt duty cycle is stuck at .14... then the vanes are not stuck, the computer is commanding the vanes open because there is another sensor not reading right and the computer is trying to compensate for that.
These don't relate directly to boost but it is still a good thing to check.* They can really hurt performance.
ICP sensor
IPR
FICM (make sure voltage is good)
YouTube boost leak video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=flV24cxn1vY&t=2s
I went through and checked everything that was suggested before I unloaded, then reloaded the tunes. It ran great for a while, then it left me on the side of the road with no icp. After tearing down and trying to find a leak, I did find trash in the iPr. I’m pretty sure a lifer was on the way out. I haven’t had time to fool with it, and bought a new truck. However, I’m taking the truck in and getting studs, cam and lifters, and a few other things while it’s torn down. I’ll find out soon what caused the screen to tear. I rebuilt the oil cooler with a motorcraft at 275k. I’m pretty sure if it were trash from that job, it would have caused the issue sooner. The last 2 oil changes I found a slight amount of shavings on the oil pan plug as well. It did well for 335k miles before having to go in and do anything major.
powerlifter405
Active member
As KC said good tunes are really a big step up. I had G H and they ran ok but was wanting less smoke and lower EGT on the X tune. I got in touch w/ QT and after eric and vivian did several revisions the looneywild runs great. Maybe not quite as fast/quick as the Gh but a lot better EGT control and better throttle response.
Good luck w/ the rebuild.
Good luck w/ the rebuild.
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