230/100%'s and turbo pairings

[94.5stroker]

I have a 94 zf5 running 160/0% with a D66. I haven't been happy with the combo since I put it on. It is smokey and laggy even with different tunes. I recently found out that I have a leak in my uppipes and intake plenums, so I've decided it's time to change it up. I've decided to go up to 230/100% and try to shoot for the 500-600 range. It's my daily driver and I use it for towing around the farm some, usually not too heavy, but I want EGT's to be in check. I also want to keep the setup as reliable as can be (understanding that when you mod you increase the risk) will I be pushing my luck on a stock bottom end? I've been told that if I get a 1.0 a/r housing for the D66, an intercooler set up with new uppies and intake plenums to eliminate leaks, it will be a great combo. That it would do much better lighting the turbo with my manual, and keep the EGT's in check. After spending a lot of time comparing prices between getting all the pieces to keep my D66 running and just moving up to a T4 with either a S366 or S468 the prices aren't very different.

So my questions are which way should I go? I can sell the D66 and bellowed uppies, my stock turbo, 160 injectors, and a TS chip I had before my hydra to recoup some of the cost in switching to a T4. I just rebuild the D66 under 5k miles ago with a 360 kit and Beans new 66mm billet compressor wheel.

Are there any issues I will run into with the D66 and the 230/100's? Drive ratio, turbo life? Will the D66 with the tighter exhaust housing have issues on the top end?

If I should go up to T4 which is the better option the S366 or S468? Same question on drive/boost ratio and turbo life for those two.

I've spent a lot of time trying to get the thing smoke free and drivable and I am just tired of high EGT's and smoke. I also want more power, strange I know haha. Thanks in advance, hopefully you can decipher that mess.

 

[ghohouston]

I'd fix the underlying problems before buying performance parts. Reseal the plenums and re seal/replace your up pipes.

 

[ghohouston]

But if you do get those injectors, your stock bottom should be fine, but stranger things have happened. It's always a crap shoot with performance parts. And I don't think you're going to be ear your hp goal with 230/100's... I'd say 500 if you're lucky with live tuning and everything else on the engine healthy as a horse.

 

[bruce]

I think 230/100's and a s366 would be a nice combo,

 

[94.5stroker]

I'd fix the underlying problems before buying performance parts. Reseal the plenums and re seal/replace your up pipes.

Yeah think the uppies are the prob so getting new ones either way and I think the stock intakes are a joke so I wanna get rid of them too. So either way those two things will be addressed. Just wondering who as experience either way what would work better.

 

[94.5stroker]

And I don't think you're going to be ear your hp goal with 230/100's... I'd say 500 if you're lucky with live tuning and everything else on the engine healthy as a horse.

Would I be better off to move up to 250/200's?

 

[bruce]

Would I be better off to move up to 250/200's?

I've read where a guy made like 575 on PIS 230/100's and a 38r. Granted that was on dyno proven's dyno so take it for what it's worth. 250/200's and a 468 is nice combo but there have been plenty spit the rods out with that combo. You could get some 250/200's (same money as 230/100's) and detune them and run with the 366. With either though you're gonna need stud and valve springs

 

[ghohouston]

That's damn impressive for those injectors, imo. unless Tim just overbuilds and under rates his injectors.

Personally, I ran 238/100's and a 38r, and it was fun. Bone stock motor, no studs, valve springs, or rods, and never had a problem. Never dynoed it though

 

[bruce]

I always thought 238/80's and a 38r would be a pretty awesome DD

 

[94.5stroker]

With either though you're gonna need stud and valve springs

I've got spring studs and pushrods. But I didn't touch bottom end.

 

[bruce]

Also I think you HBJ is better suited for the 100% nozzles. With either injector though there is a possibility you could chuck a rod, but if you drive reasonably you'll be fine.

 

[gnxtc2]

One of the best things I did to my truck....got rid of the "66" style turbo and went T4 with a BASB which is based of a BW S300 frame. Read my thread on "66" style turbos.

I have more than enough power to tow 23k (see build up in sig).

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[MossBack]

One of the best things I did to my truck....got rid of the "66" style turbo and went T4 with a BASB which is based of a BW S300 frame. Read my thread on "66" style turbos.

I have more than enough power to tow 23k (see build up in sig).

Billy T.
[email protected]

^^^this is dead on. Buy the turbo to fit the needs of the truck. I feel that if I can make 396hp with 160/80's and stock turbo and no i/c then 230/100's and custom turbo and IC should fuel well over 500.

Remember tossing parts on top of problems only make them worse

 

[94.5stroker]

Remember tossing parts on top of problems only make them worse

Either way I will address the problems first with new uppipes and intake plenums.

I'm leaning towards the T4 setup with an S366..... I can try to sell the D66 with the fresh rebuild and my 160 injectors.