38r BatMoWheel Update

MadDiesel73 · Mar 20, 2012

One thing I can report is. I don't get the fluter as bad if I let out of the fuel
To fast at wot on the hwy like I did with the 1.0 and stock wheel.

neverkickn · Mar 20, 2012

Would bringing the icp in faster and trimming down the PW help to light that 1.15 charger a little quicker?

MadDiesel73 · Mar 20, 2012

Theres a couple examples of guys losing power goin to the 1.15. Like Matt at gearhead has said if you don't have back pressure or etg issues with the 1.0 which my stage 1.5 cam is suppose to really helps with , there's no need for the 1.15 and that's kind of what I'm seeing..

Not saying it isn't possible I could do better with the 1.15 and live tuning.

Power Hungry · Mar 20, 2012

Big Bore said:
Nope LOL

j/k

The "magic" is the -0005, indicating what that 1.15 A/R housing fits.

Sorry... misunderstood the question. :doh: I'll go back to sleep now.

PowerstrokeJunkie · Mar 20, 2012

Guess you didnt cross drill your 1.0 turbine housing to vent the driver's side of the engine? Smack yourself if you didn't, you had it in your hands more than once now LOL

MadDiesel73 · Mar 20, 2012

Damnit as soon as I got it done I thought about that and yelled Fuuuuuu@$.. It wasn't too bad I'll pull it off again and do it.

PowerstrokeJunkie · Mar 20, 2012

Bore out the side closest to the flapper a little bit more too, there's probably enough lip to get a little extra flow out of it. At about 20-25mm any little bit extra you can get to vent will help.

Lowdown89 · Mar 20, 2012

What is this drilling out of the housing you speak of?

TyCorr · Mar 20, 2012

Lowdown89 said:
What is this drilling out of the housing you speak of?

To remove the septum in the 1.0 housing. Or to provide pressure equaliztion more accurately as the housing is.split-scroll and only wastegates one scroll.

Lowdown89 · Mar 20, 2012

TyCorr said:
To remove the septum in the 1.0 housing. Or to provide pressure equaliztion more accurately as the housing is.split-scroll and only wastegates one scroll.

i searched but couldnt find a how to on it, do you know of one so i could see how to do it?... if bill doesnt think it would be worth it to swap the 1.15 housing onto my truck after he gets the other stuff done i may look into doing this to my current housing

MadDiesel73 · Mar 20, 2012

Take the wastegate / outlet cover off the housing and drill a hole through the wastegate flap hole and through the center divid so both sides can equalize and exit the waste gate.

I have the wastegate setup to open on spring pressure and it only opens 1/3 of the way.

I may try the non wastegated 1.0 with an external 45mm gate . Ahh Probibly not I'll most likely need the 1.15 and an external gate for the compounds with a 83/96/1.39.