6.0 Engine Build - 750+ Hp

[crash86]

So I finally have some funds gathered up to start building my spare engine. The plan is to be at 750hp. At this time the engine is disassembled at the engine shop getting cleaned, bored .020 over (block needed it), o rings on my new heads and valve springs. Either going to go with 250 or 285 hybrids. Most likely an S369 SXE. Been looking into overhaul kits. What do yall recommend? De-lipped pistons? Are they worth it at this power level? Not looking to build the bottom end at this time. Injectors - Warren? Holders? Also looking into Colts Stage 2 cam.


At this point I'm just antsy to get my engine back from the shop and having all the parts to get the rotating assembly together by the time I do get it back, any input is appreciated. Thanks. Ill try and attach a picture of the truck its going in.

 

[6.0 Tech]

I would recommend holders, and I would recommend doing the bottom end. Just scattered mine, it was making around 780-790.

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[Petro]

I would recommend holders, and I would recommend doing the bottom end. Just scattered mine, it was making around 780-790.

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I would assume the compounds had something to do with yours scattering, no?

 

[6.0 Tech]

I would assume the compounds had something to do with yours scattering, no?

Could've been, when it let go I was being easy on it though, #1 rod is broken. Probably wouldnt have haf a problem with a set of rods in it...

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[crash86]

I was going to say I know I've heard that a quick spooling set of compounds are no good for stock rods. But I've also heard of close to 1000 horse on stock bottom end with a single? Or is that hearsay

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[6.0 Tech]

I was going to say I know I've heard that a quick spooling set of compounds are no good for stock rods. But I've also heard of close to 1000 horse on stock bottom end with a single? Or is that hearsay

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I had always heard 750 as a more reliable number. Are there exceptions to the rule? Yes. But as a rule, 750 seems to be a good number.

And yes, compounds, especially vgt, are hard on the,bottom end, but, Charlie from KC turbos is making 1200+ in his race truck on a stage 3 vgt with a butt load of nitrous, which also seems to be fairly hard on bottom ends as it increases cylinder pressures fairly quickly.

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[crash86]

So technically I SHOULD be "safe" is what you're saying lol

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[Petro]

So technically I SHOULD be "safe" is what you're saying lol

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Well it will for sure live for a while, how long is up for debate. If you can float a set of rods, it wouldn't be a bad investment.

 

[6.0 Tech]

So technically I SHOULD be "safe" is what you're saying lol

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You could play that game, but as petro said, if you can swing it, put a set of rods in. Definitely a set of rod bolts, but rods are a good idea. I'm kicking myself in the ass for,not having put rods in mine, but I wasnt inthe position to buy them at the time, and now I'm looking a a **** ton more to build a motor now.

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[crash86]

So I have 2 options then - get a set of rods or bump my end goal down a bit.

Rods - RCD or Carillo? I'm leaning towards just putting the money into doing it because I have tossed around the idea of putting compounds on down the road


Lower my goal - I'm not a gambling man because I tend to lose more times than not. What's an ideal safe mark for stock rods with a single turbo?

Also thought on de-lipped pistons?

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[6.0 Tech]

Delipped pistons are probably a good idea. I have cracked multiples in the past, not terrible, just on the edge of the bowl, but cracked none the less. Wagler also has rods, that I believe are slightly cheaper than carillos. But any of the 3 would do the job. I agree with not being a gambling man, as I'm there now. I would say 700 you'd be more than fine with just a set of arp rod bolts instead of doing rods.

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[crash86]

Do you know of any overhaul kits that I can add de-lipped pistons to? And preferably without headbolts. Seems like every kit I've seen comes with factory bolts

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[6.0 Tech]

Do you know of any overhaul kits that I can add de-lipped pistons to? And preferably without headbolts. Seems like every kit I've seen comes with factory bolts

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I dont unfortunately. I bought mahle piston, mine were not delipped, but we do have a machine shop in town that will delip, and cut valve reliefs if needed.

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[KCTurbos]

250/100 and an s369 should be a solid 700-750hp and should not need rods (but now is the time to add them, just in case you go bigger.

We offer one of the best kits on the market... it gets rid of all the typical problems you see with other t4 kits. Let us know if we can answer any questions.

https://kcturbos.net/collections/6-0-powerstroke/products/6-0-socal-non-vgt-t4-s300-install-kit

 

[crash86]

250/100 and an s369 should be a solid 700-750hp and should not need rods (but now is the time to add them, just in case you go bigger.

We offer one of the best kits on the market... it gets rid of all the typical problems you see with other t4 kits. Let us know if we can answer any questions.

https://kcturbos.net/collections/6-0-powerstroke/products/6-0-socal-non-vgt-t4-s300-install-kit

Well I've got a t4 kit right now that is just garbage.. I won't say the manufacturer but the up pipes rub on the hard heater line that runs on the firewall when under a heavy load. The drain was the biggest pita to install. Anyways so I will probably be looking into your kit. I saw someone on here has v-banded up-pipes on the manifolds? Is that an option you offer?

As far as rods go, are you saying that I wouldn't really be taking a huge chance to leave stock rods in it? Obviously, as you said, if I plan on going bigger in the future now's the time to put them in but as for right now I would be okay?

I appreciate all you guys' input by the way.

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[KCTurbos]

Well I've got a t4 kit right now that is just garbage.. I won't say the manufacturer but the up pipes rub on the hard heater line that runs on the firewall when under a heavy load. The drain was the biggest pita to install. Anyways so I will probably be looking into your kit. I saw someone on here has v-banded up-pipes on the manifolds? Is that an option you offer?

As far as rods go, are you saying that I wouldn't really be taking a huge chance to leave stock rods in it? Obviously, as you said, if I plan on going bigger in the future now's the time to put them in but as for right now I would be okay?

I appreciate all you guys' input by the way.

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The vband up pipes at the manifold can be done... but then you are talking custom exhaust manifolds. The stock connections are just fine with a good setup of up pipes that actually fit.

Sadly... I hear about issues like yours all the time. Don't fit, dont line up right, up pipes too short/long, won't clear Reg Return fittings, can't change IPR, need a special downpipe for it to work, drain line is a PAIN, etc... etc... That is why we offer the kit that we do. It is a little more money, but WAY worth the not having all the other headaches.

 

[shmoozer]

Well I've got a t4 kit right now that is just garbage.. I won't say the manufacturer but the up pipes rub on the hard heater line that runs on the firewall when under a heavy load. The drain was the biggest pita to install. Anyways so I will probably be looking into your kit. I saw someone on here has v-banded up-pipes on the manifolds? Is that an option you offer?

As far as rods go, are you saying that I wouldn't really be taking a huge chance to leave stock rods in it? Obviously, as you said, if I plan on going bigger in the future now's the time to put them in but as for right now I would be okay?

I appreciate all you guys' input by the way.

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You’re playing with fire at that power level to be honest. Will factory rods hold? Absolutely yes. Have they held more? Lots more. Will a truck making less power scatter the bottom end? It’s happened before. Would I run factory rods at that power level? Without even a second thought..but I’m kinda dumb sometimes.
Basically what I’m getting at is that you don’t have to put rods in now, but there will come a point in time either at this power level, or a higher that your factory rods are going to let go. If you can swing putting a set of rods in I would do it. Would be a shame to put all of this time and money into machine work and rebuilding the motor to have it let go who knows when.


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[6.0 Tech]

^He said it right there, better than I guess I could... Although, I'm a little sour at having mine scatter right now...

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[KCTurbos]

^^^ exactly WHS.

I was dumb enough to build a $10,000 motor... ran great at 700-750hp for over a year. Started adding power above 750hp and bent a rod on my first WOT pull.

But I know guys that have pushed stock blocks past 1000hp and have been holding long term... but none of them "built" the motor. They just had the stock motor in there.

If you are going above 700hp and plan to pull and build the motor... AKA bore it out, upgraded pistons, cam, etc... then put rods in it.

If you are just running an old stock bottom end... then SEND IT!

 

[crash86]

Going to try and revive this thread. Can anyone add some input on stage 2 vs stage 3 cam? This won't be a daily but I would like to be able to tow with it if I have to. I'll be doing compounds with my s364.5sxe and possibly an s475? Most likely will be running warrens 330/150s. And is anyone running Callies rods? I'm hoping they might be a cheaper alternative to wagler or hypermax since I won't necessarily be going over 1000hp.

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