6.0 with 200K Stud parts list

mcdaniel1991

Active member
Joined
Oct 20, 2011
Messages
1,416
Reaction score
0
Location
Germany
Here comes a few questions.

Do the injectors need to go back in the same spot they come out of? I wouldthink it wouldn't matter but..

What is the best way to prep the deck?

Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk
 

mcdaniel1991

Active member
Joined
Oct 20, 2011
Messages
1,416
Reaction score
0
Location
Germany
Is there anything else i'm going to regret not doing after i finish this?

Also should i do it in cab, pull the cab or pull the motor? i have access to lifts and cherri pickers.
 

webb06

Active member
Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
3,888
Reaction score
9
Location
Seneca, MO
Is there anything else i'm going to regret not doing after i finish this?

Also should i do it in cab, pull the cab or pull the motor? i have access to lifts and cherri pickers.

Pull the cab if you have access. I doesnt matter if injectors go in the same hole
 

mcdaniel1991

Active member
Joined
Oct 20, 2011
Messages
1,416
Reaction score
0
Location
Germany
Also can I buy a cap set for all the lines I have to disconnect to lift the cab?

Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk
 

dsberman94

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 9, 2013
Messages
11,564
Reaction score
64
Location
Pennsylvania
Also can I buy a cap set for all the lines I have to disconnect to lift the cab?

Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk

Definitely do something for this. I ruined 2 sweatshirts because of the dripping trans fluid. Other than the trans fluid the shirts would have been fine.
 

swinky

New member
Joined
Apr 25, 2013
Messages
8,350
Reaction score
0
Location
Eastern, Nc
Definitely do something for this. I ruined 2 sweatshirts because of the dripping trans fluid. Other than the trans fluid the shirts would have been fine.

Why would trans fluid leak?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk 2
 

PSM_Kid

New member
Joined
Oct 2, 2011
Messages
225
Reaction score
0
Location
Houston, Tx
Is there anything else i'm going to regret not doing after i finish this?

Also should i do it in cab, pull the cab or pull the motor? i have access to lifts and cherri pickers.

My vote is to pull the motor since you are interested in putting a set of lifters in it. The 300 bucks or so for the set of lifters is going to be the best peace of mind since you are getting up there in mileage. With the motor out the rear cover only takes a few minutes to pull off to get to the rear lifters. Doesn't make sense to pull the cab and then pull the trans. Once the motor is out you can get it away from your truck where you don't have to worry about damaging fenders or being cramped up in the engine bay if you were to do it in cab. Engine removal is fairly easy.

I see that you are going to reseal the ipr valve (good idea) as well the hpop cover since it will be off, a 5c3z-9g804-c comes with the ipr screen kit, the black and yellow hpop o rings, the blue o-ring around the top of the pump and the hpop cover gasket.

reseal upper and lower oil pan gaskets and pick up tube o-ring as well. Another plus when pulling the motor.

I would put a new MOTORCRAFT thermostat in it and pull the water pump to inspect the front cover and water pump fins. 4c3z-8507-aa is the part number for the water pump oring. You are also going to need a 3c3z-6619-fa to reseal the lpop cover gasket since you are removing the front cover.
 

mcdaniel1991

Active member
Joined
Oct 20, 2011
Messages
1,416
Reaction score
0
Location
Germany
My vote is to pull the motor since you are interested in putting a set of lifters in it. The 300 bucks or so for the set of lifters is going to be the best peace of mind since you are getting up there in mileage. With the motor out the rear cover only takes a few minutes to pull off to get to the rear lifters. Doesn't make sense to pull the cab and then pull the trans. Once the motor is out you can get it away from your truck where you don't have to worry about damaging fenders or being cramped up in the engine bay if you were to do it in cab. Engine removal is fairly easy.

I see that you are going to reseal the ipr valve (good idea) as well the hpop cover since it will be off, a 5c3z-9g804-c comes with the ipr screen kit, the black and yellow hpop o rings, the blue o-ring around the top of the pump and the hpop cover gasket.

reseal upper and lower oil pan gaskets and pick up tube o-ring as well. Another plus when pulling the motor.

I would put a new MOTORCRAFT thermostat in it and pull the water pump to inspect the front cover and water pump fins. 4c3z-8507-aa is the part number for the water pump oring. You are also going to need a 3c3z-6619-fa to reseal the lpop cover gasket since you are removing the front cover.

You really think pulling the motor is easier then pulling the cab and trans? I have access to a lift for $40 a day. Seems like more work to pull the front clip then just lifting the cab and dropping the trans?
 
Last edited:

mcdaniel1991

Active member
Joined
Oct 20, 2011
Messages
1,416
Reaction score
0
Location
Germany
You really think pulling the motor is easier then pulling the cab and trans? I have access to a lift for $40 a day. Seems like more work to pull the front clip then just lifting the cab and dropping the trans?

Back on topic...

Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk
 

Latest posts

Members online

Top