6.0 ******

Short Bus · Feb 14, 2017

Ive been tossing around the idea of swapping out my 6.0 for a 5.9 or 6.7 common rail. What is the preferred engine between the 2 engines and if I go the 6.7 route can the exhaust brake be made to work? Also how well does the 5r trans do behind it or is it still better to do a 4r swap? Im not looking for any crazy horse power so keep that in mind, im thinking 450-475 rwhp MAX as this will be going in my 450 that just tows all the time. What is the average total cost that some of you guys have spent doing this yourself? I kinda have an idea what all the major destroked stuff will cost but the smaller stuff i have no clue what all is needed or what a used engine is bringing these days.

ncollins64 · Feb 14, 2017

I put a 5.9 cr in my buddy's truck with a built 4r and a 6.7 in mine with a 4r. Both trucks ran extremely good and had a pcs for trans control. I'm biased towards the 6.7, spooled better and had more low end IMO. The big cost was finding a good engine. I went completely through mine where we kept his bottom end untouched. Most all the little misc stuff was just hoses and fittings that I sourced from my local hardware store. Back then you couldn't keep cruise control but you can now days so that's a plus. I just bought another 6.7 a while back for my dad's Mack truck project and got it for 3500 with 50k on it. I got a good deal but normally I see them around 5k ish.

suprhlr · Feb 14, 2017

I wouldn't bother with a 4R, just do the 48RE and you wont have to get the adapters.

gwunter · Feb 15, 2017

I'm curious as to why you want to do this? Tired of 6.0 issues or reliability? I have no problems with the swap I'm just curious.

Short Bus · Feb 16, 2017

The biggest thing so far is i cant figure why the coolant temp spikes when accelerating or climbing big hills loaded. It spikes enough that it pukes and then when the fan finally kicks on the temp just drops to 200-205 until the fan shuts off. Then goes back up to 220, maintains there and waits for the next hill. Pisses me off, theres no damn reason that this thing should run down the road at 220 loaded and 190 empty. I want it to be able to sit at 205-210 all the time. Ive swapped radiators, thermostats, clutches multiple times, different tuning even stock tuning. It does the same crap even if its 30* outside or a 100*.

shmoozer · Feb 16, 2017

Could be a clogged cooler causing it. If the coolant can't circulate are decent rate, when it's under load temps are going to climb.

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sootie · Feb 16, 2017

what are the oil/coolant deltas? Could you try replacing the oil cooler with a Ford one?

Short Bus · Feb 17, 2017

The engine is only a year old, ford oil cooler. I havent checked the delta in awhile, but all summer it good. I towed with it last night, never saw temps above 210. Maybe i just got several ****ty fan clutches or could have been the snow plow package clutch did the trick.

Matt · Feb 17, 2017

It sounds like tuning has come a long ways with the 5r using an sct. I believe some guys have actually got the BD tapshifter to work as well.

6.0 Tech · Feb 23, 2017

Short Bus said:
The biggest thing so far is i cant figure why the coolant temp spikes when accelerating or climbing big hills loaded. It spikes enough that it pukes and then when the fan finally kicks on the temp just drops to 200-205 until the fan shuts off. Then goes back up to 220, maintains there and waits for the next hill. Pisses me off, theres no damn reason that this thing should run down the road at 220 loaded and 190 empty. I want it to be able to sit at 205-210 all the time. Ive swapped radiators, thermostats, clutches multiple times, different tuning even stock tuning. It does the same crap even if its 30* outside or a 100*.

Sounds like you lost your water pump impeller...

Short Bus · Feb 23, 2017

its not the impeller. otherwise it wouldnt cool down rapidly when the fan finally decides to lock up.

N2GN2 · Feb 23, 2017

I know a guy that swaps 6.0 with 7.3

DZL JIM · Mar 8, 2017

Short Bus said:
The biggest thing so far is i cant figure why the coolant temp spikes when accelerating or climbing big hills loaded. It spikes enough that it pukes and then when the fan finally kicks on the temp just drops to 200-205 until the fan shuts off. Then goes back up to 220, maintains there and waits for the next hill. Pisses me off, theres no damn reason that this thing should run down the road at 220 loaded and 190 empty. I want it to be able to sit at 205-210 all the time. Ive swapped radiators, thermostats, clutches multiple times, different tuning even stock tuning. It does the same crap even if its 30* outside or a 100*.

Luke,
Sorry I'm a little late on this.
Go get the Bulletproof adapter and run an OBS fan clutch. HUGE difference. My 6.0 van was doing the same thing you described (van radiators SUCK too). I changed thermostats, pulled out the trans cooler, did everything I could think of to help cooling. On the recommendation of others I did the adapter and OBS fan clutch and now I rarely ever see anything over 200° in the summer towing my race trailer. It was 225° before EMPTY.
Sits at 180° - 185° empty now.

For a few hundred bucks it's definitely worth a shot before a huge undertaking like a motor swap.

Short Bus · Mar 8, 2017

DZL JIM said:
Luke,
Sorry I'm a little late on this.
Go get the Bulletproof adapter and run an OBS fan clutch. HUGE difference. My 6.0 van was doing the same thing you described (van radiators SUCK too). I changed thermostats, pulled out the trans cooler, did everything I could think of to help cooling. On the recommendation of others I did the adapter and OBS fan clutch and now I rarely ever see anything over 200° in the summer towing my race trailer. It was 225° before EMPTY.
Sits at 180° - 185° empty now.

For a few hundred bucks it's definitely worth a shot before a huge undertaking like a motor swap.

Yeah ive heard about those. If i have any more problems i'll try that. I have since installed a snow plow package fan clutch, dont know what the difference is but it seems to have helped. I towed a 4x4 cclb dually the other day 25 miles into the wind and never broke 200 even when accelerating hard up the on ramps. I would have been 225+ easily before.

DZL JIM · Mar 10, 2017

Interesting, I'll have to keep that one in mind.

powerlifter405 · Mar 26, 2017

suprhlr said:
I wouldn't bother with a 4R, just do the 48RE and you wont have to get the adapters.

Did you have any issues getting the 48RE to shift properly? If I understand correctly the 48RE uses a stand alone trans ecm.

suprhlr · Mar 26, 2017

powerlifter405 said:
Did you have any issues getting the 48RE to shift properly? If I understand correctly the 48RE uses a stand alone trans ecm.

The trans shifts perfect, I did use the PCS to control the trans but I think it can be done without it. I went with the painless wire harness on the cummins just to simplify the electrical as this is not my strong point. I believe with the factory harness it will control the trans.