6.4 boost/mileage question

08Monster

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a6c26c03ee3d6ba6c0a4d2831df5b7c5.jpg
 

footlong70

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Well that means your Vgt is for sure staying closed, or not opening enough, over boosting and running extremely lean. Insane amounts of back pressure... So far every symptom you've mentioned I've seen exactly the same with frozen tubes. So I'm still a leaning towards frozen catalyst pipe and/or tube. I know you replaced it and cleaned it but it only really takes a drop of moisture to plug off the tube. And as I said before, The low part of the catalyst pipe fill up with water over time from the exhaust and has no where to go. Eventually it will completely cover where the bp tube connects. My best advice right now which would scratch off a bunch of variables and maybe solve the problem would be to remove the catalyst pipe, drill and tap the block off plate, move it up to where the catalyst pipe use to come off the up pipe, install the the bp tube and sensor into the drilled and tapped hole in the block off plate. Not only will it take water/debris buildup out of the equation, but freezing all together regardless of temperature.

If you do that and you still have issues, the vgt actuator is the most likely culprit hands down.
 

Jbird

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Probably been playing with his vgt switch to much and messed it up. Lol im jk man. Im with footlongs approach
 

08Monster

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Lots of white smoke, rough idle, and I just changed the oil. I can check today but its only 500 miles old
 

sootie

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the excessive drive pressure likely floated a valve and you now have a damaged injector tip from a chunk of valve that has broken of from piston contact. pull the glowplug if not the injector on cyl 6 and check for damage...
 

Radioflyer

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the excessive drive pressure likely floated a valve and you now have a damaged injector tip from a chunk of valve that has broken of from piston contact. pull the glowplug if not the injector on cyl 6 and check for damage...

X2, pull your valve covers, pull the injectors (or glow plugs) put a scope down there and see if you can see anything going on in those two cylinders.
 

08Monster

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Anyone got a write up? Or am I better to pull the cab and do my headstuds and other stuff while I'm in there
 

sootie

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Anyone got a write up? Or am I better to pull the cab and do my headstuds and other stuff while I'm in there

i bet you will be into a motor...not to be a pessimist but i think you are in for a little more than a small repair. i would start with pulling the valve covers to get an idea but ya-plan on a cab off job in the immediate future.
 
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08Monster

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I plan on doing pistons and the whole nine yards. As long as the block is okay, I'll build it.
 

sootie

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I plan on doing pistons and the whole nine yards. As long as the block is okay, I'll build it.

10-4 Where are you located? Morgan @ Midwest will treat you right on the engine repairs. i have shipped him motors in the past as well as sending my truck to him. you will not be disappointed. 217-691-1909
 

Halvy85

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If you have headstuds to do and stuff yet I would probably just pull the cab. If you go through the work to pull valve covers off with the cab on and find something bad you'll most likely end up pulling the cab then anyways.
 

Radioflyer

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Agreed with Sootie and Halvy.
Since I know your planning on build it anyways Ethan, here's the excuse I was telling you about that i'm waiting for. LOL

:thumbsup:
 

footlong70

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Agreed as well. Do your full build because from the sounds of it the damage has already been done. It doesn't solve the orignial problem, but you can do your single while shes up and for sure take care of those issues.
 

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