7.3powerstroke00
New member
Ok it's been long standing that you cannot remove a 6.4 without raising the cab or removing turbos. I just did a job on one and removed and installed the engine turbos on cab on.
I started by removing the intercooler, other coolers, core support, and radiator with upper and lower shrouds attached. Then removed fan, rear part of shroud and other accessories on front of engine. Removed a/c compressor, took out big bolts on motor mounts, disconnected fuel lines, removed tq converter bolts and bell housing bolts. Disconnected down pipe top and bottom, unhooked harnesses and hoses, removed driver battery and degas bottle/battery tray. Remove the vgt actuator, fuel cooler, and turbo "u pipe" (whatever it's called LOL) and bracket. I'm sure there are other nic nacs to disconnect I left out.
Oh it's a good idea to unhook the egt sensor on pass side up pipe and secure the pig tails out of the way. I didn't and it snagged and pulled wires out of plug.....
The vgt actuator coolant hoses can all be left hooked up and laid to the side.
The only lines I disconnected other than radiator hoses and heater hoses were the trans cooler, fuel and a/c. The other coolers have enough line to lay aside. Power steering pump, lines, and jug can be laid to the side as well.
I removed the front turbo hold down bolt and took the hold down piece out. I stretched a 3/8 chain link a tad so the hold down bolt would fit and put it back in with the chain to lift with.
Lifted the engine up and removed the engine side of the motor mounts, the top rear bolts are kinda a pita...
Once the mounts are out I lowered the engine a little and used a 58" pry bar hooked in the harmonic balancer to lean the engine forward. Coming up and forward with the engine while keeping it tilted forward to get the up pipes and egr pipe clear of the firewall. It is tight and kinda a pita coming out just be patient and keep wiggling, pulling, lifting, and leaning it forward. It will come out. 2 people makes it a lot easier.
Installing the engine is much much easier because you can actually let the lower part of oil pan lightly sit on cross member. tilt engine forward to work pan back till it drops over cross member and once it's low enough for pipes to clear firewall you can allow engine to level out. If you are still running stock down pipe lower engine down on cross member with it sitting as far forward as you can and slide the up pipe in from the bottom and hook on turbo. Then stab to trans, lift engine back up and reinstall engine mounts to block and set engine down in place. Then put all the goodies back on.
There it is, I know a lot of rambling but tried to thorough as I could...
Pulled the engine start to finish in 4 hrs, re installed and had it running in about 5 hrs...
sent from the best place on earth! TEXAS!
I started by removing the intercooler, other coolers, core support, and radiator with upper and lower shrouds attached. Then removed fan, rear part of shroud and other accessories on front of engine. Removed a/c compressor, took out big bolts on motor mounts, disconnected fuel lines, removed tq converter bolts and bell housing bolts. Disconnected down pipe top and bottom, unhooked harnesses and hoses, removed driver battery and degas bottle/battery tray. Remove the vgt actuator, fuel cooler, and turbo "u pipe" (whatever it's called LOL) and bracket. I'm sure there are other nic nacs to disconnect I left out.
Oh it's a good idea to unhook the egt sensor on pass side up pipe and secure the pig tails out of the way. I didn't and it snagged and pulled wires out of plug.....
The vgt actuator coolant hoses can all be left hooked up and laid to the side.
The only lines I disconnected other than radiator hoses and heater hoses were the trans cooler, fuel and a/c. The other coolers have enough line to lay aside. Power steering pump, lines, and jug can be laid to the side as well.
I removed the front turbo hold down bolt and took the hold down piece out. I stretched a 3/8 chain link a tad so the hold down bolt would fit and put it back in with the chain to lift with.
Lifted the engine up and removed the engine side of the motor mounts, the top rear bolts are kinda a pita...
Once the mounts are out I lowered the engine a little and used a 58" pry bar hooked in the harmonic balancer to lean the engine forward. Coming up and forward with the engine while keeping it tilted forward to get the up pipes and egr pipe clear of the firewall. It is tight and kinda a pita coming out just be patient and keep wiggling, pulling, lifting, and leaning it forward. It will come out. 2 people makes it a lot easier.
Installing the engine is much much easier because you can actually let the lower part of oil pan lightly sit on cross member. tilt engine forward to work pan back till it drops over cross member and once it's low enough for pipes to clear firewall you can allow engine to level out. If you are still running stock down pipe lower engine down on cross member with it sitting as far forward as you can and slide the up pipe in from the bottom and hook on turbo. Then stab to trans, lift engine back up and reinstall engine mounts to block and set engine down in place. Then put all the goodies back on.
There it is, I know a lot of rambling but tried to thorough as I could...
Pulled the engine start to finish in 4 hrs, re installed and had it running in about 5 hrs...
sent from the best place on earth! TEXAS!
