6.4 losing oil

[TXGLASSMAN]

Yea I suppose. Just wish they didn't pull the cab cause of labor. But I guess it's not my money or my truck.

I don't see how else the turbos would come out. And lifting the can is probably cheaper and faster than tearing the motor down to make room for the turbos to come out with the cab on.

 

[blk350on20s]

Its pretty simple cab on but if they have the means of pulling the cab id def go that route. May add an hour to it

 

[Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto]

I don't see how else the turbos would come out. And lifting the can is probably cheaper and faster than tearing the motor down to make room for the turbos to come out with the cab on.

If the egr and crossover pipe is deleted and none if the up-pipe bolts are seized I've had the turbos on the ground in half an hour. It's pretty easy. Un bolt up-pipes, down pipes, oil supply, heat shield, mounting bolts, intercooler boot and remove separately the elbow and fuel cooler. Bam it's on the ground. I've had only one that the up-pipe bolts seized and ended up pulling the cab to torch them. Even if the turbos have net ever been off I can see it taking it long enough to make pulling the cab a cheaper option.

 

[silverpsd_06]

Why is it so hard on these motors to let them idle and warm up for ten minutes or so before you take off? It would make sense to me to give them at least a chance to build a little heat... Id let my old 7.3 idle for 15-20 minutes before going anywhere

 

[backwoodsboy]

My guess would be cylinder wash down / wet stacking.
Not enough heat to burn all of the fuel, fuel passes by rings and causes oil contamination.

 

[Strokin6.4]

Hmm I never would have guess that. So you just jump in your truck and take off down the road?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[drunk on diesel]

yes... at 0*F ambient, your idle EGT's are probably 200* or less

get the thing moving... don't rail on it obviously until it warms up, but it's much better to get moving and give the thing 500-800* egt so that it can actually warm up than to just let it idle stone cold

incomplete burn of the fuel combined with less ring seal = diluted/contaminated oil and ring wear

 

[Heavyhaul422]

I am curious. I have run a fair amount of equipment in my life. Cold running builds enough pressure for the oil filter to bypass and make tremendous pressure in a transmission. Do you guys think that this is better than five minutes to warm up? You can crack a wood stove by warming it too fast. I would hate to think that a deleted 6.4 would need synthetic changed every 5000 miles. If I did that I would expect it to last at least a million miles. Maybe I should have stayed away from my beloved Ford's diesel engine. I beleive in maintanance but isn't that like changing the air in your tires? I don't mean to offend anyone, I am just a smart a** by nature. Seriously, do I need to use synthetic and change every 5k to get a 6.4 to last 100k, then fix the egr cooler, replace the turbos and either burn a piston or crack a block?

 

[Big Angry Hillbilly]

Oil change $100 give or take

You already know how much turbos are gonna cost.

Engine $12-$15k and up.

I will continue changing oil for 100 bucks a month.

And having lived somewhere that average daily temperature was around -55, and the sun rose for minutes a day, warming up won't hurt anything.

 

[blk350on20s]

Where in the world do people come up with these crazy oil change intervals? 3-5k is it for me. Oil breaks down i dont care what anyone says. Man are people cheap. No offense but its not a 4 wheeler.

 

[OBS F350]

Where in the world do people come up with these crazy oil change intervals? 3-5k is it for me. Oil breaks down i dont care what anyone says. Man are people cheap. No offense but its not a 4 wheeler.

Speaking of which, it's been a hard year for the yfz, should probably do an oil change on it xD LOL. (But really it has been a year.)

Glad you got it figured out OP.

 

[Motostroker]

I let mine idle for maybe 30 seconds, then proceed to baby it up to regular temps. 235k on the clock and I drop the oil every 3-5 k. Depending if I towed, etc. but 18k? Wow

 

[blk350on20s]

Mine gets 20 minutes of warm up a day. 10 before and 10 after work. I wont go anywhere until i have at least 50 EOT EOC

 

[Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto]

I would hate to think that a deleted 6.4 would need synthetic changed every 5000 miles. If I did that I would expect it to last at least a million miles. Maybe I should have stayed away from my beloved Ford's diesel engine. I beleive in maintanance but isn't that like changing the air in your tires? I don't mean to offend anyone, I am just a smart a** by nature. Seriously, do I need to use synthetic and change every 5k to get a 6.4 to last 100k, then fix the egr cooler, replace the turbos and either burn a piston or crack a block?

Then don't use synthetic. Unless your driving long hauls thousand or more miles a week then there's no need to extend your oil change. 6.4 have a lot of blowby because of ring design and will contaminate your oil. If you can't afford to change your oil every recommended interval then you probably shouldn't own a 6.4. If you don't wanna worry about cracked pistons, bad turbos, egr coolers, stuck injectors, cracked block or a dropped lifter then you probably shouldn't own a 6.4 either.

 

[Strokin6.4]

I mean is it safe the just a start it let in run for a couple minutes then go? I thought "high idle" was designed for idled warm ups.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Big Angry Hillbilly]

Wet stacking is the major concern with extended idling.

Most guys aren't running EGR so it's not as big of a deal.

I'm surprised no one has posted Sweet Brown yet.

 

[6.4stroke]

5. You’re not Letting Your Engine Warm Up
Don’t be that guy who starts his cold engine and immediately revs it up. The only thing you’re showing off is that you don’t know your turbo and engine bearings won’t get lubricated properly with cold, thick oil. Let your engine warm up like you warm up in the morning. Let the glow plugs and intake heater do their job. Fire the engine and give it some time for the combustion heat to warm the engine evenly.

This practice is very important on extremely cold mornings. Hot and cold engine parts expand at different rates, so gaps can form, which could cause leaks or gasket failures. Wait until your engine oil and coolant temperature gauges show you are in the right operating range. You do have these readings…don’t you? Also, if it’s really cold, don’t turn the steering wheel too much right away or you could risk blowing a hydraulic hose. The other thing that’ll keep your engine running longer is preheated coolant. The more cold-starts your diesel is subjected to, the shorter its lifespan will be. Inconsistent metal expansion and poor-flowing (thick) lubricants don’t provide protection from moving parts.

Another thing to worry about is fuel washing the cylinder walls before compression ignition can occur. Here is a message we got from a reader from the North Pole: “I have both batteries heated, the block heated, and two heating pads on the oil pan. The transmission is not heated, because it’s a stick. The intercooler is totally blocked as well. I might just put a pad on the transfer case and front differential, but it warms after about a mile of driving in four-wheel drive.” Diesel-fueled auxiliary heaters are also an option. It’s also just as important to let your diesel cool off before you shut it down. A turbo timer will do this automatically for you, because if it gets shut off too soon, oil will overheat, break down, and destroy turbo bearings.



Read more: http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/...illing_your_diesel/viewall.html#ixzz2KMIUmSnn

I understand ur guys point but ill still let my truck warm up some before I run depending on temp.

 

[drunk on diesel]

When you're talking about extreme cold, warming up at idle is viable when you can't plug in, but you're paying the price of accelerated wear...

I'd say if your ECT/EOT is above 20* or so, to ease into it and start driving. If you're loaded down with a big heavy trailer, I would let it warm up more.

But cold idling is hard on the engine oil. Follow a severe duty oil change schedule IMO

 

[Johnny77Mutt]

I always let my diesels idle at least 5-10 minutes no matter the temp, things can crack if heated up too fast. The first thing I do with my trucks is climb a big hill to get out of town, there's no way I'm taking an ice cold motor right to 1100 degrees for egt's. I am real picky, I don't move my truck until the oil is at least 90, that's what high idle is for. I also cool my truck down every time.

18k mi is quite a long interval. I run amsoil synthetic, and a bypass filter and still change every 10k.

 

[6.4stroke]

Yea I kno. I think he learnt his lesson 4k dollars later