6.7 head resurface

20156point7

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I am currently in the process of swapping a new ford short block into my 2015 6.7. I took the old heads off my original engine to a reputable Machine shop, and they recommended for them to resurface and do a valve job on both cylinder heads. I realize ford doesn't recommend resurfacing the heads. I got the heads back a few days ago and they look great, but I don't know how much the shop took off the heads. But my question is if they took too much off will this interfere and cause valve clearance issues since the rockers are non-adjustable? I don't assume they took much off the heads because they weren't in bad shape to start with. I cannot seem to find anyone saying whether or not to machine the 6.7 heads. I just don't want to put it back together and have the valve contact the piston and ruin everything.
 

6.0 Tech

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I am currently in the process of swapping a new ford short block into my 2015 6.7. I took the old heads off my original engine to a reputable Machine shop, and they recommended for them to resurface and do a valve job on both cylinder heads. I realize ford doesn't recommend resurfacing the heads. I got the heads back a few days ago and they look great, but I don't know how much the shop took off the heads. But my question is if they took too much off will this interfere and cause valve clearance issues since the rockers are non-adjustable? I don't assume they took much off the heads because they weren't in bad shape to start with. I cannot seem to find anyone saying whether or not to machine the 6.7 heads. I just don't want to put it back together and have the valve contact the piston and ruin everything.

Most of the time ford doesn’t recommend resurfacing due to the finish not being correct. I forget what it is, like ra or something, but if the number isn’t in the specified range, the gaskets won’t seal properly. So if it’s too coarse or too fine, the sealant on the gaskets won’t get a full seat.


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DEEZUZ

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These heads don't get ****ered too much. They literally should've just done enough to get them clean.
 

20156point7

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Also, I am going to follow the recommended method for torquing the rockers down. Seems a tad confusing. Is there a simpler way to just torque the rockers down and go? The method I am reading says turn the crank to tdc for Cyl 1 which is 3:40 on the front crank dowel pin.
 

DEEZUZ

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Oh they've been saying that since 6.0s lmao... That's just a CYA(Cover your ass) in the literature. Unless you messed with timing which you more than likely haven't, no issues.
 

20156point7

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Oh they've been saying that since 6.0s lmao... That's just a CYA(Cover your ass) in the literature. Unless you messed with timing which you more than likely haven't, no issues.
Thanks for your help. That’s kinda what I was figuring. But where I am messing with a brand new short block I want to make sure I do everything exactly right
 

6.0 Tech

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Also, I am going to follow the recommended method for torquing the rockers down. Seems a tad confusing. Is there a simpler way to just torque the rockers down and go? The method I am reading says turn the crank to tdc for Cyl 1 which is 3:40 on the front crank dowel pin.

Always just ran them down. I will say though, with there being 4 push rods and rockers per cylinder, after you get everything set, turn the motor over a couple times to make sure you didn’t miss a push rod. Ain’t much that’ll puss you off more on these than having to pull a valve cover off when you thought you were done with it…


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20156point7

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Also got another question. So I bought a brand new short block from ford which has a few differences in the block from my 2015. So does all the new short blocks come with the updated rods and steel pistons? And if so Are those much stronger?
 

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Got another quick question. I can't seem to find anywhere what the Torque specs is for the 4 bolts that mount the engine mounts to the block. Anyone have any idea? The new bolts that go into the side of the new blocks are 12mm i believe. Thanks
 

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Got another quick question. I can't seem to find anywhere what the Torque specs is for the 4 bolts that mount the engine mounts to the block. Anyone have any idea? The new bolts that go into the side of the new blocks are 12mm i believe. Thanks

3/8 gun….


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Gary

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It's not piston to valve clearance to worry about when the heads are cut, it's the preload on the cam, when you cut the heads you add preload.
Whether you should cut the heads is a complicated question and depending on who you talk to will change the answer. I've been through Fel-Pro's gasket school and you already know what they say.
 

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How do you add preload to the cam by cutting the heads? These things have hydrolic lifters. They automatically adjust tension hence we don't have to adjust valve lash.
 

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How do you add preload to the cam by cutting the heads? These things have hydrolic lifters. They automatically adjust tension hence we don't have to adjust valve lash.

He’s probably talking about preload on the lifters, but unless there’s a performance cam or something in it, it’s typically fine. Building an ls for the boss, and when he bought it it had jesel adjustable rockers with hydraulic lifters. It’s got a decent size cam in it, and the cam manufacturer recommends .100 preload on the lifters. Obviously this all goes out the window with solid lifters, which is my only experience with adjustable rockers, so I had to call jesel. Really nice people, but pulling .003-.005 off is t gonna change too much. I wouldn’t worry about it. Now if they take .010 or something stupid like that, you may need to get shorter push rods or something….


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