oh wow... not what you wanted to see. Will they let you to be present at the disassembly? Good luck!
I fully agree...You need to be there. It is worth your time.
Why do you think the block is junk? If the cylinder walls are good and there aren't any cracks, you could just be looking at replacing a piston and some bearings. Rebalance/blueprint, reassemble and you're back in business.Sorry for the delayed response.
Well, I'm taking my engine in for disassembly and analysis tomorrow. I pulled it out and stripped most of the accessories off of it. Out of curiosity, I pulled the pan on it since I used the Moroso gasket. On a side note, that gasket is sahweeet. I highly recommend it.
Upon pulling the pan off, I found a layer probably 1/4 inch thick or thicker of metal shavings over the entire sump. Both ferrous and non ferrous. Truly sickening. The engine is junk. I just pray that it didn't jack my Carillo rods up.
I'll be curious to find out what the shop finds wrong with it.
This engine had less than 5000 miles on it and it's basically scrap metal. This fiasco has been a complete disaster.
Why do you think the block is junk? If the cylinder walls are good and there aren't any cracks, you could just be looking at replacing a piston and some bearings. Rebalance/blueprint, reassemble and you're back in business.
Sorry Doc, I didn't mean the block is junk. I probably didn't use the best language.
Yes, I'm hoping it's just bearings and rebalance and like you said, maybe a piston. The block should be OK. I hope it is. It just needs to be cleaned thoroughly.
Only thing I'm debating doing now is a cam. Didn't do it originally. Some shyed me away from them. Now I'm starting to second guess that. Some people seem to like the results. Also thinking about switching the shimmed 910s to maybe some beehive springs.
Definitely ditch the shimmed 910s, you will be very glad that you did!
A comp cams behive style spring that requires no shim and has no chance of coil bind in a 7.3 application. The locks and keepers that come in the kit are also highly superior.
When you have that kind of money in a motor it would be silly to go with a $90 set of springs
A comp cams behive style spring that requires no shim and has no chance of coil bind in a 7.3 application. The locks and keepers that come in the kit are also highly superior.
When you have that kind of money in a motor it would be silly to go with a $90 set of springs
I totally agree but there is some type of secret of getting the correct part numbers for the beehive springs, locks, locators/retainers and seals.
All spring heights should be checked, some shimming might be necessary.
Billy T.
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A comp cams behive style spring that requires no shim and has no chance of coil bind in a 7.3 application. The locks and keepers that come in the kit are also highly superior.
When you have that kind of money in a motor it would be silly to go with a $90 set of springs
Agreed, would love it if someone would finally say, this is the kit/part numbers, this is where to buy them, and you dont need to do anything other than put them in. Ive read head work need to be done to fit them? What is the exact process and what materials do you need to accomplish it?
I'm definitely happy with DI's cam.Sorry Doc, I didn't mean the block is junk. I probably didn't use the best language.
Yes, I'm hoping it's just bearings and rebalance and like you said, maybe a piston. The block should be OK. I hope it is. It just needs to be cleaned thoroughly.
Only thing I'm debating doing now is a cam. Didn't do it originally. Some shyed me away from them. Now I'm starting to second guess that. Some people seem to like the results. Also thinking about switching the shimmed 910s to maybe some beehive springs.
Comp Springs #26120-16
Comp Locators #4696-16
Comp Retainers #795-16
Comp Locks #617-16
mine do not have shims...they were on the snug side once the stock seals went in