I guess some of you don't run or work in a shop, but when this situation arises, the customer is always right and he's always a dick head. Even when you cleanly disclose you recommended to change the rear main while apart.
7.3 engine removal/repair help...
- Thread starter locomotivemachinest
- Start date
Arisley
Moderator
If I had an engine torn down for a rebuild, I would probably throw a rear main in it. If not, I would not.
If a customer comes to me and tells me to replace every thing on the motor that could leak oil, I would replace it.
Just like if a customer comes to me and tells me he has a bad alternator and wants it changed, I would change it, wouldn't even check it. When it still doesn't work, he told me to replace the alternator, he did not ask me to troubleshoot what the problem was.
If a customer comes to me and tells me to replace every thing on the motor that could leak oil, I would replace it.
Just like if a customer comes to me and tells me he has a bad alternator and wants it changed, I would change it, wouldn't even check it. When it still doesn't work, he told me to replace the alternator, he did not ask me to troubleshoot what the problem was.
Garbage_Mechanic
Member
Here's my .02 after 35 years of repairing or directing the repair of diesel engines: Dave and everyone who says leave it alone unless it is proven to leak is correct. I do have my little secret to share as well.
I have had many occaisions of pesky oil leaks over the years I have found with this trick. Adapt a shop air hose coupler onto the engine blow by hose or some other place on the engine. The crankcase has to be sealed up so the dipstick has to be in, the oil cap on etc. Put 3-5 psi in the cranckcase with a regulator. Spray suspect areas with soapy water. Viola, small leaks revealed. Especially ones that only show up running at high rpm for a while.
In my case I had a few drops of oil in the bellhousing on my 7.3 after a long drive. Top of the engine dusty dry. Not a drop. Rear main no sign of a leak. WTH??? Next clutch change I did the air pressure trick. The very top two corners of the rear main seal plate were leaking! R&R the plate and seal, now dusty dry everywhere not as drop.
So if I had an engine out and was wondering about it, I would put 5 psi air in crankcase and check it with soapy water. (If you put too much air, dipstick is the safety valve)
This way you have the piece of mind but didn't disturb anything that isnt a problem.
I have had many occaisions of pesky oil leaks over the years I have found with this trick. Adapt a shop air hose coupler onto the engine blow by hose or some other place on the engine. The crankcase has to be sealed up so the dipstick has to be in, the oil cap on etc. Put 3-5 psi in the cranckcase with a regulator. Spray suspect areas with soapy water. Viola, small leaks revealed. Especially ones that only show up running at high rpm for a while.
In my case I had a few drops of oil in the bellhousing on my 7.3 after a long drive. Top of the engine dusty dry. Not a drop. Rear main no sign of a leak. WTH??? Next clutch change I did the air pressure trick. The very top two corners of the rear main seal plate were leaking! R&R the plate and seal, now dusty dry everywhere not as drop.
So if I had an engine out and was wondering about it, I would put 5 psi air in crankcase and check it with soapy water. (If you put too much air, dipstick is the safety valve)
This way you have the piece of mind but didn't disturb anything that isnt a problem.
Arisley
Moderator
Nice trick.
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