7.3 hpop issues???

Tsgs69400 · Jan 7, 2017

Did you check the fuse for the fuel bowl heater, it also powers the idm i think? I vaugely remember a shared circuit like that..??

Erik307 · Jan 7, 2017

Tsgs69400 said:
Did you check the fuse for the fuel bowl heater, it also powers the idm i think? I vaugely remember a shared circuit like that..??

yes you are correct it does and if bad will cause no start but I have checked it and my fuel bowl heater has been un plugged for years but thanks for the thought wish It could be that easy.

gnxtc2 · Jan 7, 2017

Erik307 said:
ok so last night I gathered up what I had to check the pressure in the reservoir. the only way I could do it was using a 4 foot hose because it had the right thread on one end for the plug in the hpop reservoir. I then cranked it over and compared the guage I have inside the truck ( its a digital one that was in the truck when I got it) to the mechanical on the hpop reservoir and they are way different according to the mechanical I am pushing 32 psi while cranking it jumps to 40 then settles off at 32 according to the digital inside the truck (wich is what I have been going off of) I have roughly 70. now im more inclined to belive the mechanical but will the 4 ft hose make me loose some pressure on the guage? I did allow the hose to fill with oil before testing.

now a question! will the 32 psi keep up with the hpop's demand? also how do you put a guage on the hpop with the quick connect fitting? or do you remove them and rig something up? thanks

Don't confuse pressure with volume. 32/40 is fine for cranking.

Rig something up to adapt the gauge to the HPOP hoses or directly to the HPOP and cap the other port. Don't crank it too long as you'redead heading the pump. Once you confirm pressure, then onto to the heads.

I don't want to jump right to pressurizing the heads. Got to confirm the HPOP is building pressure.

I had to do the same process as my truck would not build HPO. End result....all eight injectors had blown orings. Search for my thread on the orings.

By any chance, do you have Glowshift gauges installed?

Billy T.
[email protected]

Tsgs69400 · Jan 7, 2017

Erik307 said:
yes you are correct it does and if bad will cause no start but I have checked it and my fuel bowl heater has been un plugged for years but thanks for the thought wish It could be that easy.

Ok, sorry for the sidetrack. I can only say otherwise that it must be ipr or pump related.
Did you mess with any chip or programmer or pcm recently?

lincolnlocker · Jan 7, 2017

gnxtc2 said:
Don't confuse pressure with volume. 32/40 is fine for cranking.

Rig something up to adapt the gauge to the HPOP hoses or directly to the HPOP and cap the other port. Don't crank it too long as you'redead heading the pump. Once you confirm pressure, then onto to the heads.

I don't want to jump right to pressurizing the heads. Got to confirm the HPOP is building pressure.

I had to do the same process as my truck would not build HPO. End result....all eight injectors had blown orings. Search for my thread on the orings.

By any chance, do you have Glowshift gauges installed?

Billy T.
[email protected]

you mean glowsh!t?

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

gnxtc2 · Jan 7, 2017

I tried to be nice....yes Glowsh!t.

Billy T.
[email protected]

Erik307 · Jan 8, 2017

Ok so my internet sucks way out here so if this posts multiple times and its shorter each time its just cause i got tired of typi g it over again lol. So i deadheaded one side of the pump and put a guage on the other when i hit the key it looked like it jumped to 1000 psi then dropped to nothing so for the hell of it i put a different guage that maxes out at 400 psi and hit the key and i got a steady 100 psi. So im assuming that either my new pump or ipr are bad..

The only guage in the truck is the oil pressure and i dont know what brand it it the only reason i left it is because the idiot that put it in cut a hole in the dash. Some people i tell ya lol

Erik307 · Jan 8, 2017

Tsgs69400 said:
Ok, sorry for the sidetrack. I can only say otherwise that it must be ipr or pump related.
Did you mess with any chip or programmer or pcm recently?

Nope no chip or programmer and when it qouldnt start i swapped idm's with my other powerstroke trying to diagnose.

Tsgs69400 · Jan 8, 2017

Ok, sounds like you got all the usual suspects out of the equation. I think you are on the right track with the ipr and hpop then. I had to rebuild my ipr and replace my sensor a few years ago.

gnxtc2 · Jan 8, 2017

Read this to get an understanding of the HPOP system. You really need to get a scan tool. It'll save you a lot of time.

http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1818

Billy T.
[email protected]

gnxtc2 · Jan 8, 2017

Erik307 said:
Ok so my internet sucks way out here so if this posts multiple times and its shorter each time its just cause i got tired of typi g it over again lol. So i deadheaded one side of the pump and put a guage on the other when i hit the key it looked like it jumped to 1000 psi then dropped to nothing so for the hell of it i put a different guage that maxes out at 400 psi and hit the key and i got a steady 100 psi. So im assuming that either my new pump or ipr are bad..

The only guage in the truck is the oil pressure and i dont know what brand it it the only reason i left it is because the idiot that put it in cut a hole in the dash. Some people i tell ya lol

Is the front bolt torqued to 90 ft lbs? What brand IPR did you order? Did you use the correct HPOP gasket? Could you post any pics of the HPOP/IPR installed?

Billy T.
[email protected]

Erik307 · Jan 8, 2017

so I guess its possible that either the hpop or ipr could be bad from the box? I will put the ipr from my other truck tonight see if that changes anything

Erik307 · Jan 8, 2017

hpop was bosch and the ipr is ford I guess the only other thing that did baffle me and I just thought of the new ipr on the very nose that goes into the pump is capped off and the one that was in my truck was not and the one in my wifes is not maybe that makes a huge difference?

ghohouston · Jan 8, 2017

What do you mean its capped off? If there was a plastic cap on the ipr, are you saying you didnt take it off before installation?

Erik307 · Jan 8, 2017

well from my quick research the ( cap ) on the end is called an edge filter and is only for the model 94 to 95.5 so the mighty intelegent folks down at ford sold me the wrong one and I didn't think much about it they change designs all the time. I will change it and report back.

Erik307 · Jan 8, 2017

no I tried to post a pic but couldn't figure it out it seemed like a cap plugging of the end of the ipr I wouldn't come off it was metal and yes I removed the platic one that protects it before installation

ghohouston · Jan 8, 2017

I pm'ed you my number

gnxtc2 · Jan 8, 2017

Erik307 said:
no I tried to post a pic but couldn't figure it out it seemed like a cap plugging of the end of the ipr I wouldn't come off it was metal and yes I removed the platic one that protects it before installation

What is the part number of the IPR valve?

Edge Filter

NO Edge Filter

Billy T.
[email protected]

Erik307 · Jan 8, 2017

Yep that was the problem i went and got the right ipr installed it and had 3500 psi in two cranks. I will have to put everything back together and i will post the results. I have to replace the furl pressure regulator on the bowl because it broke while taking it off but i should have it together in a couple days.

gwunter · Jan 9, 2017

Well done. Sounds like your hard work will soon pay off. For a free scan tool, you might want to look into forscan on a laptop or torque on your phone. Forscan is fairly diverse for being free. Check out the forscan discussion in the general discussion section.