7.3 idling quiet and low throttle response

BlueBonnet

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I'm trying to get all the bugs worked out my truck. I've replaced just about everything in the last 500 miles, efuel is set at 65 psi. It's been running great with no issues other than a little white smoke that I mentioned in another thread. Well today it's been idling really quiet and the throttle response isnt very good. It still has decent power but not like it should. It did the same thing a couple times last week but stopped and started running normal. So far three times it shut off when doing it and the CEL comes on before it dies. After I start it back up, the CEL goes away and it runs normal again, except for today. The CEL came on, truck died, started back up, no CEL but it's still quiet and low throttle response. Maybe EPBV is closing on me? I unplugged the sensor for it a few days ago. I haven't pulled the DP off to check it yet. Does that sound like the problem or should I start looking in another direction?
 

BlueBonnet

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Just started it back up and it sounds normal and has full throttle response... I was hoping it would still be the same so i could check the map sensor and mess with the ebvp. Hopefully I can get a scanner on it this week sometime.
 

Bobby@cp

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I wouldnt mess with anything until you have the scanner on it and get the codes.
 

BlueBonnet

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Well I left for work this morning and got about 2 miles from the house when it died and won't start back up. No smoke so the injectors aren't firing. I checked the connection to the ipr, everything is good. The ipr has less than 500 miles on it so I hope it isn't bad... All the fuses are good. Fuel pressure is at 65 psi. The only thing I can think of is a bad IDM?
 

Krause

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Sounds a bit like a bad IDM, or a CPS perhaps. When my IDM was bad, it wouldnt shut down completely, it would loose an entire bank of cylinders and chug on 4. IDM was filled with water... This is an easy diagnosis, pull the IDM and it may have water sloshing around in it.

Not sure exactly how to diagnose a CPS off the top of my head, but a quick search will bring up how to do that. I believe if you dont get RPM reading while cranking then likely a CPS problem. But the rogue cutting out and then being ale to start again sounds like symptoms of a CPS.

The 'not having power like it should' sounds a bit like your IPR may not be allowing enough oil to injectors, would be a shame to have a dud after 500 miles. Get the codes from it.
 

BlueBonnet

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The CPS has only been in my truck for a few days. After getting 6 bad ones from advance (truck ran but had issues) I bought one from ford and installed it and it's ran great until today. Im leaning towards the IDM since is basically the only thing I haven't replaced in the last 500 miles.

It was acting like you were saying almost like it was only running on a few injectors. It didn't shake or wasn't loud. The injectors weren't popping as loud as they should, they were quiet.
 

Krause

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The CPS has only been in my truck for a few days. After getting 6 bad ones from advance (truck ran but had issues) I bought one from ford and installed it and it's ran great until today. Im leaning towards the IDM since is basically the only thing I haven't replaced in the last 500 miles.

It was acting like you were saying almost like it was only running on a few injectors. It didn't shake or wasn't loud. The injectors weren't popping as loud as they should, they were quiet.

Pull the IDM and feel if there is a puddle of water in it, although there dosnt necessarily have to be a half liter of water like mine for it to be defective, if condensation is in there it could mess it up. Also, if you suspect this, and have a buddy with ANY 7.3 powerstroke (94-2003 all work), you can just borrow his IDM and plug it into your truck to see if it runs better.

Lots of IDM's pop up on classifieds all the time, Ford will anal fist you for one of them.
 

BlueBonnet

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Yeah I got a buddy that's going to bring me his spare tomorrow. I let it sit all day and it fired up after messing around with it for a little but. It was running fine then same thing, was like half the injectors shut off then it died a few seconds later.
 

BlueBonnet

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I put another working idm in it, no start. I did get it to start within a minute or two but how I got it started doesn't make since... I'll explain. Back a month or so ago when I installed my e fuel system, I used the wiring harness from strictly diesel. Its an awesome kit and I highly recommend it to anyone that doesn't like doing wiring and doesn't mind spending $120 on it. Well in the kit, there is a wire that hooks to the battery on the positive and negative. There is a quick disconnect plug from there to the rest of the harness so you don't have to take your batteries cables apart if you needed to unhook the pump. Today when I got back to my truck after work, it wouldn't start. I grabbed that wire at the quick disconnect just to make sure it wasn't hot from cranking. I didn't mess with anything else. When I got back in the truck it fired right up. It was running rough with a heavy lope. I grabbed that wire again in the same spot it and it started running smooth. I didn't really think much about it, I just thought it was odd and probably a coincidence. Well a few minutes ago, after I installed the loaner idm, it wouldn't start. I unplugged that fuel pump wire and plugged it back in and it fired right up. I put my idm back in and it fired back up and was running great. Now, I know it had 65psi everytime I checked it when it wouldn't start, and i could hear the fuel pump running, but is it possible that maybe the pump is running and making 65psi except when turning it over? Maybe the connector isn't getting a good enough connection to carry the right amount of volts when turning over. I don't know if that's possible, but anyone ever have a similar issue? My truck did this to me a few times before I installed the efuel and injectors but i didn't drive it anymore until after the efuel and injectors. My old injectors and connections were shot so I thought that was the cause back then? Was it all coincidence or could this be the issue? Sorry for the long post, I can ever seem to keep it short lol.
 

BlueBonnet

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Yep it sure is. Idk why I didn't think of that. I guess I need to either find a different power source or run it over to the passenger side. It shouldn't do it while running tho should it? Sometimes it starts right up and after driving for about a mile it starts running quieter and low throttle response. Eventually the pedal doesn't really do anything until it dies or I shut it off.
 
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neverkickn

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The truck should start and run with just having fuel in the rails. If your pump is running and you can verify 65 psi of pressure then I would move on for now. You need a way to read codes and monitor some things. Sounds a lot like a truck that is bleeding hpo.
 

LA_Stroker

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Absolutely can be hpo bleeding off.

I asked about the drivers battery because I had an electrical issues with my headlights (and using a high ampere wiring harness) in that sometimes the lights would just die away. Mess with the wires a little bit and they would come back. What I found is that when I would mess with the wires I was also moving about the ground to that battery. When I eventually caught on it ended up being that the ground wire was cooked on the inside so the battery was barely charging. Driving down the road the other battery and my alt would keep the truck running but since I tapped the battery with an accessory bolt (so not to the pos/neg cables but getting energy straight from the battery) the battery's voltage would eventually die out from the headlights pulling more juice then the alt could restore with the crispy neg on the battery. In short, check the left batteries neg wire.
 

dmd

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The quiet idle reminds me of when my HPOP went south. Low power at lower
RPMs, but when wound up it was still lower on power. A little harder starting too..
Had to pull a TT 700 miles like that, hills were 30MPH in 2nd.

Adrenaline fixed that.
 

BlueBonnet

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Absolutely can be hpo bleeding off.

I asked about the drivers battery because I had an electrical issues with my headlights (and using a high ampere wiring harness) in that sometimes the lights would just die away. Mess with the wires a little bit and they would come back. What I found is that when I would mess with the wires I was also moving about the ground to that battery. When I eventually caught on it ended up being that the ground wire was cooked on the inside so the battery was barely charging. Driving down the road the other battery and my alt would keep the truck running but since I tapped the battery with an accessory bolt (so not to the pos/neg cables but getting energy straight from the battery) the battery's voltage would eventually die out from the headlights pulling more juice then the alt could restore with the crispy neg on the battery. In short, check the left batteries neg wire.

I had a similar issue with the drivers side battery a while back. Since then I've replaced the cables and batteries. I'm still going to run the power over to the other battery bc I know if it's not a problem now it probably will be later on down the road.
 

BlueBonnet

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The quiet idle reminds me of when my HPOP went south. Low power at lower
RPMs, but when wound up it was still lower on power. A little harder starting too..
Had to pull a TT 700 miles like that, hills were 30MPH in 2nd.

Adrenaline fixed that.

I hope the hpop isn't going out! I just put it in lol. I bought a TE500 and it's only about 2 months old if that.
 

neverkickn

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You need to be checking codes and looking at your hpo system first. Running the fuel pump power to the other battery is a waste of time and money. If you have everything connected properly, there is absolutely no reason why you should have a problem related to you drawing power from the driver side battery. If you want a really good corrosion free connection, then your best bet is to run the feed off of the alternator.
 

BlueBonnet

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If everything goes as planned, I'll have my truck scanned this weekend. I'll let y'all know how it goes.
 

Rideracelivemx7

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I've had his happen to me and all it was is the tin nut on the back of the ipr fell off and the solenoid slid back a half inch. Truck had a long crank, was super quiet and pedal barley worked. Same situation happened to my buddies superdutys, tin nut had fallen off. They checking that
 

BlueBonnet

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Thanks I'll check that. On my old hpop I could wiggle the ipr side to side where it plugs in, it was like it was turning a little. That's probably why it was doing this then. Hopefully itll be a simple fix like that this time. It's been raining all day so I the guy hasn't been by to scan the truck. Hopefully the weather will clear up soon.
 

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