7.3 Intermittent rough choppy when warm

[Jaydawg7.3]

I’ve got a 2000 f350 power stroke with 230,000 miles. I just bought it from my brother and noticed that after the pickup warms up, the ideal sometimes gets choppy. It’s not consistent I just feel a random shudder in the cab. I took it to a mechanic for a once over and he ran a buzz test and everything checked out fine. There is no blowby when I take the oil fill cap off. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks for any help!!!


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[lincolnlocker]

I’ve got a 2000 f350 power stroke with 230,000 miles. I just bought it from my brother and noticed that after the pickup warms up, the ideal sometimes gets choppy. It’s not consistent I just feel a random shudder in the cab. I took it to a mechanic for a once over and he ran a buzz test and everything checked out fine. There is no blowby when I take the oil fill cap off. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks for any help!!!


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Try what i suggested in the other thread.

Anyway to monitor icp dc and icp while at idle?

live life full throttle

 

[Jaydawg7.3]

Try what i suggested in the other thread.

Anyway to monitor icp dc and icp while at idle?

live life full throttle

I interesting update!! So I got the engine nice and warm and it started idling rough. So I unplugged the icp sensor and it immediately smoothed out. It threw a service engine soon code as well. Then, I plugged it back in and I was in the pickup when the SES light turned off, and the engine immediately started idling rough again, even worse than before. I did that a few times with the same exact results. So does this mean that it is the ICP sensor? And if so, any suggestions on what brand to buy?


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[Addicted4]

Motorcraft

 

[lincolnlocker]

I interesting update!! So I got the engine nice and warm and it started idling rough. So I unplugged the icp sensor and it immediately smoothed out. It threw a service engine soon code as well. Then, I plugged it back in and I was in the pickup when the SES light turned off, and the engine immediately started idling rough again, even worse than before. I did that a few times with the same exact results. So does this mean that it is the ICP sensor? And if so, any suggestions on what brand to buy?


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Nope. That means its doing what its supposed to do and is working just fine. It throws it into default when unplugged..

You will have a code stored for that the next time you get it on a scaner.

Whenever needed. Always use motorcraft sensors and harnesses or gaskets.

live life full throttle

 

[lincolnlocker]

Need to be able to monitor icp and ipr duty cycle.

live life full throttle

 

[Jaydawg7.3]

Need to be able to monitor icp and ipr duty cycle.

live life full throttle

Wait so the ICP sensor isn’t bad? Also, the code went away after I cycled the key. It also went off after like 30 seconds of running with the sensor plugged back in. It seems like this indicates that the sensor is bad since it runs well when the sensor is unplugged and really rough when the sensor is plugged in.


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[Jaydawg7.3]

Also, what is the ipr.


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[Jaydawg7.3]

Need to be able to monitor icp and ipr duty cycle.

live life full throttle

I have read some about the kiwi Bluetooth obd II reader. Would this monitor the icp and ipr duty cycle or is that a job for a bigger computer like the auto ingenuity.


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[Jaydawg7.3]

I have also heard good things about the dashboss. Any thoughts on that? Sorry, I’m brand new to all the 7.3 issues and hardware!


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[Magnum PD]

Also, what is the ipr.


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Its short for Injector pressure regulator. It regulates how much oil pressure all the injectors see when you use the accelerator

 

[Jaydawg7.3]

Ok I see. So I have read a bunch of other forums and it seems like its almost a toss up whether it’s the icp or the ipr. I’m going to replace the icp first because that seems to be the more common issue and my symptoms fit that better. And if that doesn’t fix it I’ll replace my ipr valve/sensor. They are both really easy to do it looks like. Just a little spendy.


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[dsberman94]

Ipr is trickier but not hard. Just very difficult to reach. Throw money an OBD2 Bluetooth unit for $17 on Amazon instead of hundreds on parts from Ford. You’ll save a headache.

 

[lincolnlocker]

Wait so the ICP sensor isn’t bad? Also, the code went away after I cycled the key. It also went off after like 30 seconds of running with the sensor plugged back in. It seems like this indicates that the sensor is bad since it runs well when the sensor is unplugged and really rough when the sensor is plugged in.


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Yes. The icp sensor is absolutely fine. You do NOT need to replace it...

You do need to be able to monitor or scan with a good scanner too.

Torque pro app and a bluetooth dongle off Amazon will suffice.

Any time the cel comes on it will store the code even when it goes away..

Dont throw money at that truck without being able to monitor what we ask. Ipr might be fine also and that money down the drain if it doesn't fix it.

Can be a leaky injector once warm or a torn o-ring or electrical issue like burnt connections somewhere.

What is battery/alternator voltage at idle when its up to operating temp?

What oil are you using?

How many miles on truck?

Has anything been replaced?

live life full throttle

 

[Jaydawg7.3]

Ok sounds good. I just bought a Kiwi bluetooth dongle. I will get back with the info as soon as I get it.

Update on symptoms: The pickup has a stutter at 10% throttle. For example when I'm driving through Wyoming and have to slow down to 45 through town and i leave it in 6th, it gets this hitchy stutter (its not lugging, it happens most at 1500 - 1800 rpms). When i give it more throttle it goes away and smooths out.

The pickup has 235,000 miles, I run rotella T-4 15W40. I am at about 1500 miles on this oil change. I am getting about 15 volts when up to temp. Everything I know of is stock on the pickup except for a TS 6-position chip. I run it at the +50 horse setting.

I'm trying to learn as much as i can through all this so i have a question. If the problem is mechanical, like a leaky injector, or electrical like burnt wires, why does the idle smooth out when i pull the icp sensor plug. It seems to me that when i pull the icp sensor, it will still have trouble with less oil pressure when the injector fires at idle meaning the idle should still be rough. But idk what im talking about haha thats just my thought process. Thanks for all the help so far!!

 

[Jaydawg7.3]

I just used my roommate's Bluetooth dongle and when the idle was rough or hunting, the ICP sensor was reading pressures of 3000 psi to 3600psi. The IPR would blip at the same time. When the idle was smooth, the ICP was was reading 3290 to 3400. When looking at the graph, it was easy to see the ICP readings jumping around when the idle was rough and the graph smoothed out when it was running well.

 

[bryan.d]

Someone correct me if I’m wrong. Those ICP numbers seem really high for idle speed. Those numbers reflect what would be WOT conditions. You might want to double check the unit of measure. If those numbers are correct and the IPR is working correctly, I’d be curious to see what that thing is making at WOT. Based on those values alone I’d guess that the IPR is stuck closed. Just my 2 cents.


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[Addicted4]

What is the ipr duty cycle at idle? How does the truck drive?

 

[lincolnlocker]

I just used my roommate's Bluetooth dongle and when the idle was rough or hunting, the ICP sensor was reading pressures of 3000 psi to 3600psi. The IPR would blip at the same time. When the idle was smooth, the ICP was was reading 3290 to 3400. When looking at the graph, it was easy to see the ICP readings jumping around when the idle was rough and the graph smoothed out when it was running well.

Unplug icp sensor and see what pressure its idling at then?

live life full throttle

 

[BS Hauler]

I have a 02 doing the same thing. For a while it was just longer starts. Now I can't get it started. It doesn't have enough oil pressure to start. I unplugged the the sensor and it still will not start. I am sure I have an injector o-ring leaking. So I am going to pull all of them and reseal them.