95 F350 Regular Cab Restoration

GreenMachine

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So i had posted a while back about a friend selling a cheap 95 powerstroke dually utility body, that had a bad injector. I asked everyone's opinion and everyone told me to pick her up for $3500 with the plow.

I ended up running some diagnostic stuff and figured out which injector was bad, and replaced it. She runs like quite the lady now.

When i purchased it, it had recently had a new transmission, a new oil pan, a new front end, new rear leafs (F450), and numerous other things. It also came with the plow.

As the winter progressed and we got no snow, I drove it very little, but i really liked this truck. So, a few weeks back I decided I wasn't going to let the old girl rot away anymore, and I began to plan my restoration.

Here are some photos of the first steps, getting the utility body off, which had been welded on with steel plates.

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In this last photo you can see my buddy goin to town on the chassis, the original plan was simple:

-Convert it back to the single rear wheel by taking off the adapters
-Clean and paint the rear half of the chassis
-put a new bed on her
-new tires
and then finally repaint the entire truck the Oxford White it was originally.

But then, I decided if I'm doing it once I'm doing it right all the way.


So we cleaned the chassis and got her painted, and then the cab fun started.

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The more I started getting into the cab, the more I realized how bad both doors were rotted. I scored a pair for $25, so those will be going on.

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GreenMachine

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And then I started stripping interior parts, and under the sill protectors and rubber floor mat i found this on the drivers side.
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Any ideas, i found a replacement cab corner for around $40, and a replacement sill here http://raybuck.com/i-67336-1980-98-ford-pickup-bronco-oem-rocker-panel-driver-side.html

Not sure if that will be enough though? any thoughts comments??

Here is how she sits currently with both doors off.

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Tomorrow the rest of the interior is coming out, and I am almost 100% sure i want to pull the cab tomorrow so that way I can finish doing the chassis all the way through.


Any tips/thoughts? first time taking on any kind of project like this. Just like the truck a ton, and she has only 180k on it. Mechanically in great shape. I figure why not make it nice again since i got such a deal on doors/fenders/rims.
 

Worstenemy453

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I have a scrap F-150 cab here, with no rust what so ever, i can sell you the whole floor if you want and you can decide what patch panels you want to make.

Only kicker is the cab was sectioned about 6 years ago after the truck was flipped so there is a nice bead running across the middle, you can clean that up though.
 

MAC

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My old IDI had rust that bad, after I priced out all the pieces I'd need, and the time to do the work, it was cheaper just to do a cab swap.

Plus with rust that bad, there is rust other places on the cab you can't see.
 

Worstenemy453

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If he doesn't take the floor, I may be interested in it

Shoot me a PM man, I have a full dash too, and a Grant steering wheel with all the mounting crap.

The steering wheel was about to go in the FS section.

:eek:fftopic

Anyway, love seeing this old beast and others like it resurrected. Love the passion for these trucks. And i hate RC/SB duallys but i say leave it like that too LOL
 

Diesel_Brad

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My old IDI had rust that bad, after I priced out all the pieces I'd need, and the time to do the work, it was cheaper just to do a cab swap.

Plus with rust that bad, there is rust other places on the cab you can't see.

What he said. You are going to need cab corners, rockers, inner floor, lower B pillar and lower A pillar.

Look at your radiator support too, I sure there is NOTHING left to it.

And those flares on the front are hiding ROT too, you will need a pair of fenders.

Your $3500 deal, was no deal. That was a $1500 truck
 

GreenMachine

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Nah trust me it was a deal. Front flares are off, previous owner was a friend of mine and replaced them with two brand new ones. Flares and fenders are only 2 years old.

As far as cab goes, I just got a 95 bronco at my cousins scrap yard. I'm thinking of taking that whole area out and making it work on mine. Yes I'll still need a can corner, but the sill plate an floor towards the drivers seat looks the same.

My $3500 truck included receipts for a $2000 e4od rebuild, a new oil pan, new springs,new ball joints, etc.

I scrapped that POS utility body today. Got $171 for it. I had been trying to sell it for $200. Don't think I did too bad on that.
 

GreenMachine

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Traded a mower with a buddy today and in exchange I got new clear headlights from lmc along with all new chrome bezels.

Also got this bad boy in the trade. It's almost brand new, and will make greasing all my machines easier each day.

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GreenMachine

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Thats great news since its brand new with charger and batteries, and i had only wanted 4-500 for the mower
 

Bean

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Since that is a cab and chassis you are a little stuck in-between a single wheel and a dually. The C&C axles and frames are narrower in the back so it will make it tougher to mount a bed to and the wheel base will be a bit off to fit a dually bed. You could just about put a single wheel bed on it and some fender flares, I think the fender will come about half way over the outside dual.
 

7.3powerstroke00

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I've never seen a ford cab and chassis frame that had the hump in it over the axle.... And if you notice it does have spacers on the rear axle..... I may be wrong on the frame but the ones I've seen were straight from the cab back.....
 

GreenMachine

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Sorry I shoulda been a little clearer originally. It is a single rear wheel truck that the previous owner had put adapters on. Back spacers are off and tonight I'm gunna pull the fronts off.

So I have a regular srw chassis for an 8' bed
 

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