A/c problem on my 02

Bobs 7.3 · Jul 20, 2017

My a/c is almost warm at idle so I put in a new orifice tube and the one I took out was packed with what looked like aluminum shavings and this is the second time I've done this but last time was 2 years ago and the a/c stayed cold till now. This time still almost warm at idle and only gets cool till above 2k rpms for atleast a minute so I think after this metal the second time it needs alot of new parts. I was thinking a full aftermarket kit with all the o-ring, dryer, compressor, orifice tube, oil and condenser. Put it all on and have the system flushed, vacuumed and charged the proper way. Has anyone used those aftermarket kits before? Do they work well?

79jasper · Jul 20, 2017

Lol your compressor was taking a dump long ago. Surprised it still worked this long.

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6.0 Tech · Jul 20, 2017

:whs: Can always try adjusting the air gap on the compressor if youre strapped for cash, but not sure if thatll help any now.

The Brad · Jul 21, 2017

I replaced compressor, orifice and accumulator, flushed, evacuated and charged. It did good for 2 years, then started to get warm. When I checked pressure, the high side was a little high at idle and way high at 1800rpm. The orifice was clogged with crap, so I replaced everything except the evaporator (I get the parts cheap) and now it's good. Either I didn't flush the condenser good enough, or the hoses were starting to deteriorate.

Zmann · Jul 21, 2017

condensers are hard to flush especially parallel tube replacing is a good idea IMO

Ford also has a multi piston compressor so you can start to get junk in the system long before the compressor stops compressing altogether

Bobs 7.3 · Jul 22, 2017

Ya I think the condenser is definitely getting changed too as added insurance since I'm in it this far already. Just use the old lines and evap and flush them really good before buttoning it all up for the 30 min vac then recharge. Does anyone know the oil amounts for the new parts as they all hold so many ounces of oil and the recommended oil to use? The lines will be dry and the compressor was charged with oil when it came so I'd like to top the rest ofg where they should be so it doesn't take too much away from the compressor oil when they would fill and top off there amounts.

6.0 Tech · Jul 22, 2017

Typically the compressor comes with a full charge of oil, and you have to dump some to make it the right amount for the system.

And its pag oil

The Brad · Jul 23, 2017

My compressor came charged with 3oz and I added another 6oz to it. There's a sticker under my hood that shows the oil and freon totals. In my case it's 9oz of oil and 2lbs 10oz of refrigerant.

bordo380 · Jul 24, 2017

Thanks for posting about this Bobs 7.3. My ac in my Excursion has something weird going on too. The front blows warm until I turn on my rear fan. They they both blow cold. So now I make sure they are both on.
I wonder if cleaning the orifice will fix this or is is this the effect of the multi piston compressor like Zmann said?

Bobs 7.3 · Jul 24, 2017

bordo380 said:
Thanks for posting about this Bobs 7.3. My ac in my Excursion has something weird going on too. The front blows warm until I turn on my rear fan. They they both blow cold. So now I make sure they are both on.
I wonder if cleaning the orifice will fix this or is is this the effect of the multi piston compressor like Zmann said?

The new orifice did wonders 2 to 3 years ago but thus tI me the compressor I know is just shot so I'll just change everything but the hoses and evap but I'll flush them out really good before I button everything up for the vacuum and recharge. Pull your orifice n if it's packed with metal aluminum looking shavings then your compressor is failing.. you can then try a new orifice and recharge but eventually you'll need a compressor and a really good flush. I just ordered the a/c filter that goes between the lines and the compressor as it catches any metal shavings left that the flush doesn't get out before it ruins my new compressor.

Bobs 7.3 · Jul 24, 2017

The Brad said:
My compressor came charged with 3oz and I added another 6oz to it. There's a sticker under my hood that shows the oil and freon totals. In my case it's 9oz of oil and 2lbs 10oz of refrigerant.

Yep I already mounted the compressor and it's full of the amount of oil it's supposed to have. I should be able to add say 6 ounces to the condenser when I install it and it should all level itself out right? Like level the proper amount in each component so there where they are supposed to be? I'd just have to find out the correct oil to put in the system as I bought pag 150 to coat the o-rings when I install them but I don't think that's the proper number for in the system itsself.

PSD POWER007 · Jul 24, 2017

bordo380 said:
Thanks for posting about this Bobs 7.3. My ac in my Excursion has something weird going on too. The front blows warm until I turn on my rear fan. They they both blow cold. So now I make sure they are both on.
I wonder if cleaning the orifice will fix this or is is this the effect of the multi piston compressor like Zmann said?

Yeah, my Excursion is blowing ice cold up front and only occasionally cools in the rear. All my cooling lines are doing as they should on both sides of the expansion valve in the rear. I'm thinking it's the rear temp blend door. Only thing that makes me wonder is why the rear doesn't drip condensate on the ground when it's not cooling. Would the blend door not forcing air through the evaporator cause it to not drip back there? Like I said, the supply lines are ice cold and the return line is warm to the touch at the expansion valve.

79jasper · Jul 24, 2017

If the rear isn't cooling, it ain't gonna drip.
Nothing to cause the condensation.

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PSD POWER007 · Jul 25, 2017

79jasper said:
If the rear isn't cooling, it ain't gonna drip.
Nothing to cause the condensation.

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If it has freon flow back there, which my line to the expansion valve and both lines to the rear evaporator are ice cold...I assume the dripping is caused by air being forced across the evaporator by the temp blend door. I'm just trying to diagnose before I tear it all apart back there.

79jasper · Jul 25, 2017

Ah, I missed that the line is cold.

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PSD POWER007 · Jul 25, 2017

And I can't find the part number for the rear temp blend door motor assembly anywhere. Every google search turns up Expedition and Explorer threads and part links.

Bobs 7.3 · Jul 25, 2017

Anyone know the proper oil for in the system that's used? Condenser is on the way, in line compressor filter is on the way and both should get here Thursday so I'll install them, add the proper oil amounts, and flush the lines and button it all up so it can go friday morning for its 2 hr vacuum then recharge.

79jasper · Jul 25, 2017

Should be pag46.

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Bobs 7.3 · Jul 26, 2017

Thanks buddy that's what all the searches I've done says to but I don't always believe the electrical stuff lol. I'll grab some today and a can or 2 of flush to flush the lines all out before final assembly. Should I try n flush the evaporator out with the lines disconnected as that's the only piece of the puzzle not new besides the lines? Not sure how much oil and crap it will accumulate since it's after the orifice and that was trapping what looks like everything.

rusty1161 · Jul 26, 2017

I have one of these in my OBS F250, works great. My research and experience so far is there is a break in period, mine was about 50 miles before idle and low speed performance was great. I replaced the orifice valve, compressor, dryer and all of the lines. The evaporator and condenser are original, no flush on mine.

https://www.coolairparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=785

Rusty