About to give up

co04cobra · Jan 11, 2012

powerstrokenstang said:
I am pretty certain i can get a free sd block. Bad casting i guess. You can have them heat treated. The head ache and work of having to tear it all down and start over is almost worse than the money.

That was about the price I was going to have on one for you that needs to rebuilt at my shop. :thumbsup: Doing all your own work def. burns you out on it. Sometimes it would be awesome to show up at a shop and pick up a truck exactly like you want it. They could just call when its all done and then you would never know abou these headaches. haha

powerstrokenstang · Jan 11, 2012

Jason is dead on. I gave this block one last chance.
Seth thanks that would be great. A bare block is def all i would need, ill let you know. And yea would be nice but def could never afford what i have if i didn do it my self.
Is a torque plate needed for boring if the block is filled? Or what order do you do that in.

Big Bore · Jan 11, 2012

powerstrokenstang said:
Jason is dead on. I gave this block one last chance.
Seth thanks that would be great. A bare block is def all i would need, ill let you know. And yea would be nice but def could never afford what i have if i didn do it my self.
Is a torque plate needed for boring if the block is filled? Or what order do you do that in.

Thats a great question on the torque plate, I'm going to have my block sleeved regardless, so it will need to be bored. I'm also interested in this heat treating, and wondering if cryo would do the same thing. As I understand it, part of cryo treatment is heat treating. Listening to horror story like yours is sobering and makes one take a step back and consider doing things that might take a little more time and cost a lot more, but in the end well worth it to avoid heartache like yours.

davey99ps · Jan 11, 2012

Ouch bud, I feel bad for ya. I really hope you stick with it an get it going again, but if you decide to part any of it out let me know. You were great to do business with, an would gladly buy from you again. Good luck either way.

blackbetty13 · Jan 11, 2012

I have a block i bought from swamp ratt im trying to get rid of only kicker is its bored .020 over.

powerstrokenstang · Jan 12, 2012

I would only heat treat. We had one of my old cryoed forged rods rockwell tested and it was no harder than stock. At least heat treat will make it harder.

Cat_rebel · Jan 12, 2012

powerstrokenstang said:
I would only heat treat. We had one of my old cryoed forged rods rockwell tested and it was no harder than stock. At least heat treat will make it harder.

So the cryoed rod was about the same hardness as stock?

powerstrokenstang · Jan 12, 2012

Yup stock is 30-32 mine was 30.

Chvyrkr · Jan 12, 2012

My limited experience with cryo'd stock rods is not positive. The block may benefit from a heat/cryo cycle on a full build, but it's a waste of money on rods.

Run 'em the way ford made 'em or go billet.

Hotrodtractor · Jan 12, 2012

Cryo treating is to help create a more uniform grain structure and stabilize the components by removing some internal stresses (by helping to create a more uniform grain structure) - it doesn't actually do anything to harden the part beyond making the surface hardness more uniform. I would have been more surprised if you had said there was a change in surface hardness.

Heat treating will depend on the operation used if any change in surface hardness is found.

Increased surface hardness does not necessary equate to a "stronger" part either....

Arisley · Jan 13, 2012

Hotrodtractor said:
Cryo treating is to help create a more uniform grain structure and stabilize the components by removing some internal stresses (by helping to create a more uniform grain structure) - it doesn't actually do anything to harden the part beyond making the surface hardness more uniform. I would have been more surprised if you had said there was a change in surface hardness.

Heat treating will depend on the operation used if any change in surface hardness is found.

Increased surface hardness does not necessary equate to a "stronger" part either....

A file is super hard. Don't drop it though, it will snap like an icicle.

Vader's Fury · Jan 13, 2012

I hope you stick with it. Always been impressed with your truck.

powerstrokenstang · Jan 14, 2012

Well there is now a block sittin in the floor the we are pretty sure 30 will clean up great. Thanks again seth!

cardiac · Jan 16, 2012

http://www.locknstitch.com/
I am having luck with this one, on a head stud, torque to 120 ft lbs.
No leaks yet and 40 lbs of boost

Mike's Diesel Performance · Jan 16, 2012

Jason, give me a call I have some info/ideas for you.

powerstrokenstang · Jan 17, 2012

cardiac said:
http://www.locknstitch.com/
I am having luck with this one, on a head stud, torque to 120 ft lbs.
No leaks yet and 40 lbs of boost

Been there done that. Dont help on a junk block.

Whats a number to reach you at?

golfer · Jan 17, 2012

powerstrokenstang said:
Well there is now a block sittin in the floor the we are pretty sure 30 will clean up great. Thanks again seth!

I suggest you measure THAT block with & without a torque plate installed...to see how much THAT block distorts...prior to any machine work

prior to having any block machined...we make sure that the block to be used isn't 'rubbery'...

we've had blocks check out ok prior to machining...and then have them turn into rubber after machine work....machining can relieve some stresses in the casting, and they can distort significantly.< those go to the scrap yard...even if we have a couple of g's tied up in them in machine work and labor.

if you don't have a torque plate...then you can measure the cyls with the heads (and mains) installed & torqued...you just have to measure the cyls from 'underneath'.

powerstrokenstang · Jan 17, 2012

Ok thanks for the info, ill have to do that.

golfer · Jan 17, 2012

..just measure each cylinder bare (no head/torque plate) to the nearest 10 thou...and then bolt a TP/head on it and see how much it distorts...

if it moves more than 0.001 then I'd pass...

recheck after machine work

genie144 · Jan 17, 2012

powerstrokenstang said:
I would only heat treat. We had one of my old cryoed forged rods rockwell tested and it was no harder than stock. At least heat treat will make it harder.

Hotrodtractor said:
Cryo treating is to help create a more uniform grain structure and stabilize the components by removing some internal stresses (by helping to create a more uniform grain structure) - it doesn't actually do anything to harden the part beyond making the surface hardness more uniform. I would have been more surprised if you had said there was a change in surface hardness.

Heat treating will depend on the operation used if any change in surface hardness is found.

Increased surface hardness does not necessary equate to a "stronger" part either....

Exactly... A rockwell test doesn't tell the story. Get some tensile done and you'll see the benefit.

There is a benefit of cryo over stock forged rods - depending on the power objective is whether they should be used in a build...

Sam