powerstrokenstang
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Not sure exactly. Nate got em they are 400lbs per inch and i have them shimmed to about 155lbs on the seat.
About to order Stage 1's and Beans 6 position
- Thread starter Lang
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Not sure exactly. Nate got em they are 400lbs per inch and i have them shimmed to about 155lbs on the seat.
Just get the 910s as was said from Summit or Jegs. I can dig up the part numbers for the shims valves and micrometer if you need them. You want to shim them to 1.76 and make sure to include the .045 of the valve seal. If the seals look rough replace them as well.
Yes the A codes do actually use less oil than the Stock split shots. My point is how do you know your current HPOP is giving you all the oil you need to get the MOST out of your current injectors. Hence with no base line why I asked what your ICP is holding at WOT. Quite often even a good stock HPOP can not keep up with a stock set of split shots when 4ms is being called for. Depending on what you were getting it would be of help to see if you might have an issue even with the injector change to single shots (still same oil or fuel ratio as the splits i.e. 1:7) If its not holding 2800-3000 @ WOT then its leaving power on the table
Yes the A codes do actually use less oil than the Stock split shots. My point is how do you know your current HPOP is giving you all the oil you need to get the MOST out of your current injectors. Hence with no base line why I asked what your ICP is holding at WOT. Quite often even a good stock HPOP can not keep up with a stock set of split shots when 4ms is being called for. Depending on what you were getting it would be of help to see if you might have an issue even with the injector change to single shots (still same oil or fuel ratio as the splits i.e. 1:7) If its not holding 2800-3000 @ WOT then its leaving power on the table
Bean
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IMO, do not go to a larger injector then what your budget can allow for down the road. Yes they can be detuned but they can also easily be turned up and cause allot of "unplanned" issues that someone cant afford or afford to have their truck down.
Besides all the obvious reasons why a stock truck should not have a 250cc injectors a serious issue that comes up is fuel pressure. Improper fuel pressure (stock lift pump with big injectors) are hell on an injector. It destroys the plungers and also will beat out the pintle seat in the nozzle possibly causing the nozzle to fail down the road.
If you want big injectors mod the truck first to support them, if you can not afford that then you should really choose a smaller injector.
Besides all the obvious reasons why a stock truck should not have a 250cc injectors a serious issue that comes up is fuel pressure. Improper fuel pressure (stock lift pump with big injectors) are hell on an injector. It destroys the plungers and also will beat out the pintle seat in the nozzle possibly causing the nozzle to fail down the road.
If you want big injectors mod the truck first to support them, if you can not afford that then you should really choose a smaller injector.
ParkerFly
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I'm lost on this one. I've seen 238/100s pull a good 17 degree down in the low 2000s. Sure you can run them without big oil, but so could you Stage 2's or B codes if you really wanted. but to maximize power out of your setup, you'll have to have some kind of big oil.
Lang
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Gents I do not want anything bigger than stage 1 160cc injectors. Just want a little more power since i need new injectors anyways. Why do I need new springs? Just normal for the mileage on my truck?
Derek@Vision Diesel
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with stage 1s... You dont need springs with proper tuning.
Ditto... Throw the 160's in there and enjoy your truck. Its easy for these guys to spend someone else's money.
I've run about every combo out there up to 250cc...
Best daily driver is a 160cc injector with a 38R or H2e.
I've run about every combo out there up to 250cc...
Best daily driver is a 160cc injector with a 38R or H2e.
Derek@Vision Diesel
New member
Or even stage 1/stock turbo if your really pinching pennies. Stage 1s kick ass for the guy that doesnt give a **** about the dyno or track. If I ever own another 7.3 for a DD it will be an OBS.
Efuel
BTS
stage 1s
modded IDM
t500
Ts live tuned
6.0 IC
Call it a day. Daily driver thats a beast when hooked to a trailer
ParkerFly
Member
When I first started seriously modding my OBS I went with Stage 2's, Tymar, Exhaust, and TS Chip with Wildman tunes. I didn't have a ton of money in it and it was awesome to drive. Made 366 hp.
Later on I upgraded to modded h2e, springs, big oil, e-fuel, intercooler, live tuned, and probably more I'm forgetting. Now my truck is a little more fun to drive, and my bank account is a lot smaller.
So like CSI said, no real reason to go overboard if its just a daily driver unless you've just got to have monster power.
Later on I upgraded to modded h2e, springs, big oil, e-fuel, intercooler, live tuned, and probably more I'm forgetting. Now my truck is a little more fun to drive, and my bank account is a lot smaller.
So like CSI said, no real reason to go overboard if its just a daily driver unless you've just got to have monster power.
Lang
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Cool thanks guys!
David N
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I have stock springs and pushrods with my setup. Im not sure why you'd need them.
Bean
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238 hybrid has the exact same piston travel as a 160cc injector. So which one will use less oil?
Go with what you have a budget for not only now but in the future.
Bean
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Because if you pulled your heads off today you would see a mark for every valve in the engine on your pistons. I have seen bone stock trucks with valve marks in the pistons or have bent push rods.
get springs before it costs you an engine.
lincolnlocker
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bet i have all sorts of valve marks.... stock springs=7 bent pushrods and who knows what else... cant imagine a healthy valve train.
yes i know im a retard for not having them.
Lang
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Bean are you saying I need springs for 160s? Or you talking about stage 2 and 3?
Dmstrucks02
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I think he is suggesting to get springs, he said he has seen stock trucks leave valve marks on the pistons
Derek@Vision Diesel
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Its suggested to use them. As you can tell, plenty do without issue, but if you can do it you might as well.
I believe it was swamps and Wop that had pulled stock engines springs at around 100k and ford they averaged only 70-75lb. Consider what even correct tuning puts BP at when you are in the 25psi boost range. Add in that usually with perf tunes people tend to wind gears out more. For towing you are loaded more so Boston and Rome will tend to be up higher. Add in weak spring which the stock ones are .... it seems VERY cheap insurance to put proper tension springs in there. Not to mention why it is every replacement I have seen requires shimming to get to stock hieght. Add that also into the reduce spring tension of the stock springs and you have even lower operation pressures. IMO valve springs are a wear item that has a to be checked and replaced as needed especially when you are taking the engine outside its inteneded performance levels those springs were meant to operate in.ie. 15psi boost 3500rpms 200rwhp
Anyways just my opinion.
I did mine. I was happy to find that the wear on my valves was very consistent intake to intake, exhaust to exhaust. There was a small but consistent variation between intake and exhaust but that was it. I shimmed to a final installed height of 1.755 for around 130-4 psi. I fully compress the springs a couple times to allow for any initial set just in case before install.
But I never thought to not install the seals and just shim for the difference as Dave @ Swamps mentioned in another thread. I guess always thought about oil loss from vacuum which is not a issue apparently with forced induction engines other than idle. Further that our stems can use the lube apparently. Guess next time I am in there they will come out. As long as I don't suddenly start using an extra quart of oil between oil changes then I guess no worries. Just need to remember to add the extra .045 in shims.
But I never thought to not install the seals and just shim for the difference as Dave @ Swamps mentioned in another thread. I guess always thought about oil loss from vacuum which is not a issue apparently with forced induction engines other than idle. Further that our stems can use the lube apparently. Guess next time I am in there they will come out. As long as I don't suddenly start using an extra quart of oil between oil changes then I guess no worries. Just need to remember to add the extra .045 in shims.
