Annnnd BOOM goes the dynomite

OSCS

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The inconsistencies at easily explained in his posts by the fact he was answering a question I posted. I was asking around about getting a motor built. I was quoted 6300. The heads were beefed up and ported but when I went through the list of parts with the shops owner, his list was calling for treated forged rods. We know this is not.sufficient for a build that adds power, especially for somebody that is anticipating compounds. Sorry for the confusion!

Needless to.say, I'm not considering that shop for a build. Nobody around where I live wants to touch anything on a diesel.

thank you for clearing that up
 

OSCS

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Ok so I'm going to go with a forged internal short block rebuild. Is there anything I should tell the builder to do while it's under the knife.
 

Big Bore

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Ok so I'm going to go with a forged internal short block rebuild. Is there anything I should tell the builder to do while it's under the knife.

Is that block getting sleeved? If not, you should really talk to Lott about that. In fact, doesn't Lott still sell a forged short block? His are sleeved if I remember correctly.
 

OSCS

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Is that block getting sleeved? If not, you should really talk to Lott about that. In fact, doesn't Lott still sell a forged short block? His are sleeved if I remember correctly.

No it's just a bored over rebuild. Lotts rebuilds are 3500 and I'm not sure on the sleeves. It doesn't mention sleeves on his website
 

Big Bore

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No it's just a bored over rebuild. Lotts rebuilds are 3500 and I'm not sure on the sleeves. It doesn't mention sleeves on his website

Lotts rebuilds are to a different spec than the normal rebuilds from his supplier, and one of those specs is sleeves (which would account for the cost), because there is no way to tell if the sleeves are corroded away on the inside of the jacket, and I believe he had issues with that and a couple other things in the past. Just something to consider, because after talking to David, sleeving is the very first thing I would have done to a block, second would be all new fasteners. If I wasn't going to have the sleeving done, I would look for a stock forged long block somewhere. I really encourage you to talk to David about his block, as all the details are not in the ad, then compare to your other option.
 

farm boy

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Ok so I'm going to go with a forged internal short block rebuild. Is there anything I should tell the builder to do while it's under the knife.

Get whoever David uses to port the heads. I wish I would have had the coin to get it done while he had my truck... :fustrate:
 

OSCS

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Just talked to my rebuild guy.. He says they don't have sleeves. Hmmmm and they reuse factory fasteners on the bottom end only replacing new ones on the heads
 

Big Bore

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I'm not even sure David uses new fasteners, just something I picked up somewhere while researching my build, but I would not be surprised if he did, or could add them onto the deal.

IMO spending the money on a new block, without doing sleeves, is just taking a big gamble.
 

OSCS

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I'm not even sure David uses new fasteners, just something I picked up somewhere while researching my build, but I would not be surprised if he did, or could add them onto the deal.

IMO spending the money on a new block, without doing sleeves, is just taking a big gamble.

This guy is saying they don't have sleeves??
 

OSCS

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I don't know, I've never broken down a 7.3l block so I couldn't say wether it does or doesn't. I'm simply asking for advice or suggestions on what if anything I should have done to the short block while it's being rebuilt.
 

Big Bore

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I don't know, I've never broken down a 7.3l block so I couldn't say wether it does or doesn't. I'm simply asking for advice or suggestions on what if anything I should have done to the short block while it's being rebuilt.

Have you spoken with David yet? I highly recommend it.
 

521turbo

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Big Bore

Are they boreing the block out then adding steel sleeves. Because 7.3 dont come with sleeves. They are just a cast block no wet or dry sleeves.
 

Big Bore

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If the 7.3 did not come sleeved, then I'm sure it would require boring. I never really looked at that aspect of the block the couple times I've had one apart. I know that David told me he has it done, and his reasons, which I agreed with. It changes the integrity of the cylinder walls from an unknown quantity to a known quantity. Without sleeves, I just don't see how you could be confident that you have a "new" condition block. This is particularly important with our motors which are sensitive to cavitation in the coolant and pin holing.
 

Gearhead

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The factory block is not a wet sleeve design. A small overbore won't hurt a thing.
 

ToMang07

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If the 7.3 did not come sleeved, then I'm sure it would require boring. I never really looked at that aspect of the block the couple times I've had one apart. I know that David told me he has it done, and his reasons, which I agreed with. It changes the integrity of the cylinder walls from an unknown quantity to a known quantity. Without sleeves, I just don't see how you could be confident that you have a "new" condition block. This is particularly important with our motors which are sensitive to cavitation in the coolant and pin holing.

I would think ^THIS would be the most important reason to do it!
 

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