Arp torque 215 ft lbs vs high hp

[AllanB]

The part I believe people are not understanding is. If you torque a stud to 250ft/lb with lube and torque a stud without lube or with something like Never sieze. The one torques with lube does have more clamping force on the head. I guess people need to torque them to whatever torque that makes them comfortable. I just hope they understand that the ARP lube does let the stud give more clamping force.

 

[Mdub707]

Good point Allan, and to add to that, the better the lube (in this case the ultra-torque, compared to the old lube, and other lubes) is the consistency at which it reaches a torque value. That's really what ARP was trying to accomplish. They did this by making the lube... well... more lubricative. In turn, that meant lower torque values needed for the same clamping force, while also reducing torque inconsistency found with a lesser lube. So now each stud is clamped more uniformly.

 

[AllanB]

Exactly, that is why I said Never Sieze or something of that nature. Because N.S. isn't a lubricant at all, it is a compound and isn't meant to be a lubricant. Where as the ARP lube is made to reduce friction while making up.

 

[powerstrokedub]

When I did the studs on my 6.7L I looked up the stress-strain graphs for the studs I was using and then calculated the % yield I would have if going to a higher value. I determined that going to 135ft-lbs wasn't going to cause me issues over the recommended 125ft-lbs. That being said, I can't imagine why anyone would want to torque these things to more than 250 on a 6.0L. I would think you would start distorting things beyond just the studs.

 

[dzldoctor]

I go to 215 on the 6.0 studs here with no issues. No reason to go higher, the lube allows proper clamping at that torque value.

 

[Mdub707]

When I did the studs on my 6.7L I looked up the stress-strain graphs for the studs I was using and then calculated the % yield I would have if going to a higher value. I determined that going to 135ft-lbs wasn't going to cause me issues over the recommended 125ft-lbs. That being said, I can't imagine why anyone would want to torque these things to more than 250 on a 6.0L. I would think you would start distorting things beyond just the studs.

Exactly, and I'm sure ARP leaves a "safety factor" in there as well, because it would be nearly impossible to get all of the studs torqued to the exact same value. I'm sure some fall short and others go past the value needed. Going from 125 to the 135 you did probably isn't a huge deal. Going from 215 to 275 is huge.

 

[Pizza pig]

yeah especially if youre using a ****ty snap on digital wrench, man those things suck, click type or die.

 

[powerstrokedkid87]

we keep all ours in 215 with the lube...

 

[chappy]

250lb's with the new lube here.

 

[Mdub707]

yeah especially if youre using a ****ty snap on digital wrench, man those things suck, click type or die.

My buddy used a digital snap-on, but he sent it in for calibration before doing his studs. Smart move on his part I'd say.


Still no reasoning from anyone as to why they're going to such a high torque value? Chappy, how about you, since you were the last to respond. Why 250?

 

[windrunner408]

Yea so far I have not heard of a good reason yet either on why to go more than 215-220ft-lbs (in case you have a ****ty torque wrench) to ensure you are getting 210ft-lbs at a minimum.

 

[AllanB]

yeah especially if youre using a ****ty snap on digital wrench, man those things suck, click type or die.

I hate to be the one to break it to you. But your click type can be wrong also. More times than not, they are wrong if they are not taken care of properly. Such as storing them for 6 months with them still dialed onto 215ft/lbs or more, should be turn back zero after each use. Suprising how many people do not do this. Although I use a click type. I think the best kind are the old manual, pull on it and watch the needle move up to desired torque.

 

[SEABEE08FX4]

Any torque wrench reguardless of type should be calibrated every 6-12 months depending on use.

 

[chappy]

My buddy used a digital snap-on, but he sent it in for calibration before doing his studs. Smart move on his part I'd say.


Still no reasoning from anyone as to why they're going to such a high torque value? Chappy, how about you, since you were the last to respond. Why 250?

It was still puking at 215 so 250 fixed it. No leaking so far since february when I did it. Figured the one guy from wisconsin does them at a higher torque then that so i'd be fine.

 

[Fox hunt]

My bad, they recommend 210 ft lbs. But still interested just the same

Sent from my HTC Hero S using Tapatalk 2

 

[Pizza pig]

I hate to be the one to break it to you. But your click type can be wrong also. More times than not, they are wrong if they are not taken care of properly. Such as storing them for 6 months with them still dialed onto 215ft/lbs or more, should be turn back zero after each use. Suprising how many people do not do this. Although I use a click type. I think the best kind are the old manual, pull on it and watch the needle move up to desired torque.

Oh I completely agree, a buddy of mine dropped his, didnt service it, and went to torque his arp's, needless to say his 210 torque value was 180 on another wrench. LOL

 

[Mdub707]

It was still puking at 215 so 250 fixed it. No leaking so far since february when I did it. Figured the one guy from wisconsin does them at a higher torque then that so i'd be fine.

So you put studs in because you were puking, then it continued to puke after? Then you went back and retourqued to 250 and it went away? Our am I missing some steps there?