Axle seals?

TheSmokinStroke2002 · Dec 10, 2012

Hey guys, I am in the process of replacing a front axle shaft on my truck and I have to pull the seal behind the hub to get them out to replace the joints. My question is do I have to replace that seal being it is a vacuum seal and i have manual locking hubs on the truck. Figured I would pick your guys' brains before I spend another $100. Would there be any problems if I didn't run that?

Tncoalroller88 · Dec 10, 2012

id replace em better safe than sorry. u will need the seal driver to install it tho and the dust seal as well

co04cobra · Dec 10, 2012

You do not have to replace them with manual hubs. If your old seal is in descent shape. put it back on. If you do go new seals they are a PITA to get on.

91turbogsx · Dec 10, 2012

I have the OTC seal driver and it makes driving the seals effortless. As well as seating the axle.

You definitely don't need to buy new ones if they are in good shape. If you get direct Spicer parts though you should be able to get both hub seals and dust seals for about $80.

TheSmokinStroke2002 · Dec 10, 2012

91turbogsx said:
I have the OTC seal driver and it makes driving the seals effortless. As well as seating the axle.

You definitely don't need to buy new ones if they are in good shape. If you get direct Spicer parts though you should be able to get both hub seals and dust seals for about $80.

Got a link for driver

Sent from my DROID BIONIC

91turbogsx · Dec 10, 2012

OTC 6695 is the number. Search for that and you should get quite a few tool vendors.

TheSmokinStroke2002 · Dec 12, 2012

Anyone got a part number on the seal i need?

JLDickmon · Dec 12, 2012

TheSmokinStroke2002 said:
Anyone got a part number on the seal i need?

NAPA # 28600

91turbogsx · Dec 12, 2012

Spicer #50491 is the hub seal and #53877 for the dust seal.

poorboy1964 · Dec 12, 2012

you can make a driver for the seal for about 20 bucks at a home depot store there are a few wright up on it

91turbogsx · Dec 13, 2012

poorboy1964 said:
you can make a driver for the seal for about 20 bucks at a home depot store there are a few wright up on it

You can get the OTC tool for about $60. Driving around and picking up pieces to make the driver plus your time involved will probably cost you more or break even with the cost of the real tool but you still end up with a makeshift tool out of plumbing parts.

That's my view of it. But I also do alot more of them. You could always sell the tool after and recoup some cost.

poorboy1964 · Dec 13, 2012

91turbogsx said:
You can get the OTC tool for about $60. Driving around and picking up pieces to make the driver plus your time involved will probably cost you more or break even with the cost of the real tool but you still end up with a makeshift tool out of plumbing parts.

That's my view of it. But I also do alot more of them. You could always sell the tool after and recoup some cost.

I get get what you are saying if it was for my occupation I would buy the tool. I'm at Home depot at lest once a week so for the 5 minutes it took me to grind down the floor flange I look at it as saved 40 buck. LOL it's good ether way, sometimes I take it as a challenge to see what we can all get away with.

Lassie · Dec 14, 2012

http://www.superdutypsd.com/ball_joint_article.php

This is a ball joint write up, but in the middle of it there is a link to making the tool. It's about $10 worth of black iron screw pipe and a floor flange!!! Once you have the tool, the knuckle seal pops write on. It will last longer than these trucks.

And yes, even if you have manual lockers, change this seal if bad!! If it is worn enough, dirt can enter the spindle bearing of the unit bearing and destroy the shaft also!