zilla68
Active member
I got dynatrac's for my f350 thru xpd.com and found an online 10%off coupon so I think I was under 515 for the ball joints and install tool, they are damn nice I'll say.
Ball joints and wheel hub discussion
- Thread starter CurtisF
- Start date
I got dynatrac's for my f350 thru xpd.com and found an online 10%off coupon so I think I was under 515 for the ball joints and install tool, they are damn nice I'll say.
Buck1
Active member
Thinking that is the way I am gonna go. Gotta pay to play!
Thanks for the input.
Thanks for the input.
zilla68
Active member
get the tools, even though they are just cut pieces of metal, my snap on ball joint tool didn't have that size, it just ensures you don't tear the boot installing it, you will need anti-sieze also.
sniper_101
New member
I've got 250,000 hard miles on my stock ball joints. When I do mine this winter, Motorcrafts are going back in. As long as they haven't changed them, I just can't forsee anything else lasting this long (except for maybe the Duratracs, but that price!).
Since this thread was resurrected I thought I'd give my feedback.
When I did the Timken wheel hub and Raybestos/Spicer ball joints, that was the last time I ever touched them. Not once did I have a single issue.
They are now on another truck. End of last year I swapped axles and suspension and went back to stock height. This axle has XRF's on it, and I can't tell a difference between them and the Raybestos/Spicer ones I had.
For me, either one works great. Especially with the abuse that I put my truck through they've been tested really well.
How do you like the altitude change? I want to do mine. Im on 6" now but want to return to stock or a leveled setup and maybe even drop down to 33's. Been busy with other issues on it though. It'll be next though.
I like it. In all honesty I was tired of the lift. Still miss the looks of having a lifted truck, but I don't miss the problems with having it and trying to tow most days a week.
Doesn't look nearly as cool as it did, but I had to choose function over looks. I was destroying driveline components non-stop, and that got old in a hurry. Knock on wood no issues with suspension or driveline for the past 10 months that I've been back down to the stock ride. That was my biggest beef having a lift, wearing through every damn part I could think of, and towing up to 25K really tests the limits of a lifted driveline.
Dmstrucks02
New member
I'm also having the same thoughts, now that my right "xrf" tie rod is making noise
I think I'm going to run just these X codes and stock rear block and 33s
I think I'm going to run just these X codes and stock rear block and 33s
Yea. I dont really mind getting in and out. Not an issue. Its getting old replacing parts related to the lift. The lift is good minus a few pieces. Not bad for 15 years out of a "crappy boxed lift" (skyjacker 6").
I will order stock springs and some 33s...
Dmstrucks02
New member
Are you keeping the same wheels?
Mine hasn't been bad but I just put this xrf steering kit on maybe 2.5 yrs ago
I think I'm just bored with it and want a change in looks- it's been lifted it's whole life
Yea. I have been toying with running 22s once I get it painted. Thinking all black but then throwing some silver vinyl on and doing two tone that way. We'll see. I need to change the oil, run it a bit as I just put in my hopefully last set of injectors. The interior is completely out...
Dmstrucks02
New member
Ok I wasn't sure it that offset will rub at stock height
Didn't you just put 250/2s in?
Yea. New ones this time...
I had a used set of ffd 250/2 that I got locally for 600 bucks. I ran them post srp1.1 removal as I knew there was garbage in the system. A few weeks.ago I was doing my new PIS injectors and a pis thread was going and im not kidding, tim said he had the bad oring batch narrowed down to a certain time frame. I had the job 3/4 done and he said hold off ill.send you new orings. Got em two days later. I was impressed. Im going to send the ones that were on them back so he can look at them. Great guy!
Edit:I dont think they'll rub. Jeremy had that blacked out 3/4 ton ecsb on bonestock.suspension.running 33x13.5 on 12 wide.throttles and he said once he pulled the liners back, zero rubbing.
Last edited:
Dmstrucks02
New member
That's good, seems like a stand up dude
I think I'm going to try 250/2s as well
I won a set of stage 1s from a event earlier this year- I'm going to upgrade to 250s
Dont get me wrong ill get new tunes once I get my motor as it should be. I need springs and pushrods. I.have the rods but not the springs. Im not ok with comp 910s. Ill have it live tuned if need be. If they arent to my liking Ill either neuter them or throw 175/80s in again and be done.
Im over everything but driving these trucks. Seems like the further away from stock.the harder it is to keep going. The ability to make power isnt an issue. There is resource there. My issue is crappy fuel pumps, even shttier hpops, and electrical gremlins that are.a.certainty in a 12-15 year old.truck.
Dmstrucks02
New member
I guess this is the wrong thread for this
I did just order a new tie rod not xrf this time I got a reybestos joint for $52 on rock auto
Anyway I'm kind of bored with mine as well, maybe more power will fix me up LOL
One day I'll get this motor swapped in
I did just order a new tie rod not xrf this time I got a reybestos joint for $52 on rock auto
Anyway I'm kind of bored with mine as well, maybe more power will fix me up LOL
One day I'll get this motor swapped in
TrailerHauler
Active member
I just swapped out my rear leafs and dropped mine down. Pulled out F550 leafs for a pair of factory leafs, and went to 1.5" blocks instead of the 4" blocks. I was tired of how high mine sat, and it wasn't very high compared to some of yours. LOL
Dmstrucks02
New member
Do you have any current pics now?
So the F550 leafs were the rear or X codes up front?
TrailerHauler
Active member
Didn't touch the front, that has a leveling leaf and was left alone. I had 550 rear leafs with 4" blocks and the rear was 3-4" higher than the front. Those leafs are much more flat than the factory rear springs, so I had to drop the block size down and I wanted it to sit closer to level rather than sky high in the rear.
Here it is when I was wrapping it up, 1 1/2-1" higher in the rear than the front.
Members online
No members online now.