BASB T4 build

[jeremiahmercier]

I haven't been on here in forever, but will probably start frequenting this site more... Ive decided change my turbo setup, due to leaky up-pipes, and slow spooling. The D66 improved towing on the interstate, but was laggy on acceleration. The stock turbo spooled faster, and cleared smoke better on acceleration, but allowed egts to get higher on the interstate... I was gonna install the 1.0 turbine housing, the new billet D66 wheel (from beans), bellowed up-pipes, and 3" plenums; well I decided if I was gonna spend that much money, I was goin to make it worth it... I have removed my stage 1s (160/0s) and am putting 175/100s from TIM, at P.I.S, I also purchased Comp 910s and .030 shims, Smith brothers Push rods, and the entire Irate Mount kit with the BASB (bell modded s300 series) turbo from Full force. At the same time, Ive got my ZF5 out and am rebuilding it with new bearings, seals & sychros. I will try my best to make a good write-up, and have been taking pictures when I can.

 

[jeremiahmercier]

So far, Ive got the transmission and tcase out, both front tires and inner fender wells, and the turbo and down pipe out, injectors out. the drivers side up-pipe fell right out of the turbo flange, when removing. I was able to get the headless exhaust manifold bolt out (drivers side most rear). I went ahead and bought all new bolts, and retorqed the ex manifolds, We started on the Valve springs, but stopped due to I was unsure if I was using the shims properly (I didn't realize they went under the valve seals, I thought they would go over and around the seals but they wouldn't, so we started to put them in under the seal and stopped till I could verify)... Yesterday, the turbo arrived, finally!!! After removing from the box I discovered it was clocked all wrong. So I immediately called jake (eventhough I technically bought his stuff though FF) at Irate, Jake told me they do that for shipping, and that there were no seals id break clocking it to where I need it. Also on a side note, Jake has been really great to deal with, he's spent quit a while (over multiple calls) with me on the phone answering my stupid questions, and educated Q's, ever hesitated to talk, and always called me back quickly. Im hoping to get the plenums and up-pipes in this week, along with springs and push-rods. I should be getting my injectors back from Tim @ P.I.S sometime next week.

 

[jeremiahmercier]

 

[jeremiahmercier]

 

[obspsd]

That Should Be A Fun Setup, Keep The Pics Coming

 

[jeremiahmercier]

That Should Be A Fun Setup, Keep The Pics Coming

I just hope I'm a lot happier with how this setup spools and tows...

 

[jeremiahmercier]

Mo progeess

 

[jwlandry]

Does the t4 set ups run a 4" dp on the OBS?

 

[jeremiahmercier]

^^^^no^^^^ it necks down to a 3"

 

[ryanss22]

It takes a lot of work to get a 4" dp on a obs. I did it with a lot of cutting of the firewall and custom bends on the dp it self

 

[obspsd]

i Made A 4 Inch Dp On My Truck With The Mods In My Sig And Went Back To A 3 Inch And Saw No Increase In Back Pressure Or Egts

 

[David N]

Looks like a solid build.

Question: Are your valve covers coated with something? Does that help with injector noise in the cab?

 

[jeremiahmercier]

Looks like a solid build.

Question: Are your valve covers coated with something? Does that help with injector noise in the cab?

Yes, its whatever orielies parts store carries, and yes it helps with noise

 

[gnxtc2]

Mo progeess

Make sure those intakes are sealed. I would pressure test them before putting the rest back. Did you notice how thin the sealing area is along the bottom edge of the opening?

Oh, I would have pulled the motor.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[jeremiahmercier]

Make sure those intakes are sealed. I would pressure test them before putting the rest back. Did you notice how thin the sealing area is along the bottom edge of the opening?

Oh, I would have pulled the motor.

Billy T.
[email protected]

Yes it is thin... but it didn't seam too bad, we went in knowing (because you warned me) and just were patient with it, I've got the on, I'm gonna try and pressure test this weekend

 

[jeremiahmercier]

Make sure those intakes are sealed. I would pressure test them before putting the rest back. Did you notice how thin the sealing area is along the bottom edge of the opening?

Oh, I would have pulled the motor.

Billy T.
[email protected]

How would you recomend I test it?

 

[m j]

remove rocker arms
make a plug for intake
pressure up with air compressor through one of the pipe bungs while watching the gauge threaded into the other bung

that or run it knowing that a ton of other people have had no issues and that you were extra careful on install

 

[gnxtc2]

remove rocker arms
make a plug for intake
pressure up with air compressor through one of the pipe bungs while watching the gauge threaded into the other bung

that or run it knowing that a ton of other people have had no issues and that you were extra careful on install

No need to remove the rockers. The compressed air will just fill up the cylinder. Depending on how tight the motor is, it might spin over or the air will leak through the rings. Usually you'll get air past the rings with a cold motor.

Either remove the spider and make up an adapter to go from 3" to an air fitting or plug off one side off the spider and pressurize the other side.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[jeremiahmercier]

Stupid Question, My TPS only sees 3.8v and reads like 77-78% throttle, does this mean I still have about 22-23% gain on the top end? What kinda difference yall think that would make me feel?

 

[Justin@DP-Tuner]

Stupid Question, My TPS only sees 3.8v and reads like 77-78% throttle, does this mean I still have about 22-23% gain on the top end? What kinda difference yall think that would make me feel?

No. That is full throttle. I have never seen more than 3.8v on any truck I have datalogged. At idle it should read about 10% throttle.