BASB T4 build

rusty1161

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Its worth it if your TPS output voltage is below about 4 volts. This is approximately the full throttle voltage as read by the PCM. Some trucks have been noted to be as low as 3.5volts or so at full throttle. My truck read 100% position using EASE and Auto X-ray. AE showed it to be only 3.5 volts. (Key on Engine Off). Adjusting the TPS output voltage did make a difference with my truck.

Remove the throttle pedal assembly from the truck. Remove the TPS sensor and elongate the mounting holes so it's position can be rotated. You may have to remove the metal sleeves in the mounting holes. Remount the sensor, plug in the IVS switch and TPS sensor, and remount the throttle pedal assemby. Read the output voltage with the pedal at full throttle position while rotating the TPS until it outputs about 4.0-4.2 volts or so. Tighten down the TPS mounting screws. Some have posted that an output higher than 4.5 volts or so will make the PCM revert to a idle engine speed state so don't over rotate the TPS.

The TPS is a 5 volt 3 wire sensor. One pairing of the wires to it will read the 5 volt supply voltage using a voltmeter. Another pairing of the wires will show a varing voltage as you change the pedal position from about 0.5 volts to about 3.5 or higher volts. It is easiest to read if you have AutoEnginuity or a simular diagnostic tool. EASE does not work as noted already. If the peak reading is already about 4.0 volts you don't have to adjust it.

Instead of the link.

Rusty
 
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Its worth it if your TPS output voltage is below about 4 volts. This is approximately the full throttle voltage as read by the PCM. Some trucks have been noted to be as low as 3.5volts or so at full throttle. My truck read 100% position using EASE and Auto X-ray. AE showed it to be only 3.5 volts. (Key on Engine Off). Adjusting the TPS output voltage did make a difference with my truck.
Remove the throttle pedal assembly from the truck. Remove the TPS sensor and elongate the mounting holes so it's position can be rotated. You may have to remove the metal sleeves in the mounting holes. Remount the sensor, plug in the IVS switch and TPS sensor, and remount the throttle pedal assemby. Read the output voltage with the pedal at full throttle position while rotating the TPS until it outputs about 4.0-4.2 volts or so. Tighten down the TPS mounting screws. Some have posted that an output higher than 4.5 volts or so will make the PCM revert to a idle engine speed state so don't over rotate the TPS.

The TPS is a 5 volt 3 wire sensor. One pairing of the wires to it will read the 5 volt supply voltage using a voltmeter. Another pairing of the wires will show a varing voltage as you change the pedal position from about 0.5 volts to about 3.5 or higher volts. It is easiest to read if you have AutoEnginuity or a simular diagnostic tool. EASE does not work as noted already. If the peak reading is already about 4.0 volts you don't have to adjust it.

Instead of the link.

Rusty



Care to elaborate on the difference? Top end or off idle, just curious, will probably try either way
 
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now that ya mention it, it does sound familiar from where I read it earlier Today:doh::doh:

I just wish people would post the difference details instead of just saying it made a difference sometimes...

Either way, Old Man Dave has been very helpful to me in the past, not throwing shots at him, just saying. Thanks though Rusty
 
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Just some updates, I finally had final tweaks made to my tunes, runs smoother, more power and Jody has pretty much eliminated all smoke (of coarse unless you floor it from a dead stop) and just more refined.
the combo makes enough power to slip my "con ofe 450hp clutch" in my economy tunes. So, I've got a list of some for sures and some hopeful projects to do this fall. I'm for sure getting my 4 gauge pod and adding my isspro hpop and fuel psi gauges in (just boost and egt now), will be installing my dodge clear cab lights, dyno proven dipstick repair plate. I also upgraded to the Dp F6v2 and will be trying (have already purchased) dyno proven tow and daily tune. So I'll be able to make some comparisons there. Also will do all new u-joints from transfer case back, and carrier bearing (present one is worn out). I might try to move the map sensor to hot side ic pipe like I did with stock style turbo and ic setup, be interesting to see if it yields similar results (better mpg, spoolup, and lowered any smoke output). Would like to upgrade to a dual disk clutch, probably the 650hp one like mentioned in recent south bend thread. Also wanna do clear head lights (will retain amber turn signals, I like the stockish look) and hopefully body mounts.
 

gnxtc2

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Very nice..... I think I will be making the trip down to GA probably in September for some live tuning.

Look into get a Scan Guage instead of the HPOP gauge. You want to read HPOP pressure and ICP duty cycle at the same time. For the quad pod:
- Boost
- EGT
- Fuel pressure
- Oil temp, oil pressure, coolant temp <---your choice since you have a manual

I finally got my DP straightened out.

Billy T.
[email protected]
 
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Very nice..... I think I will be making the trip down to GA probably in September for some live tuning.

Look into get a Scan Guage instead of the HPOP gauge. You want to read HPOP pressure and ICP duty cycle at the same time. For the quad pod:
- Boost
- EGT
- Fuel pressure
- Oil temp, oil pressure, coolant temp <---your choice since you have a manual

I finally got my DP straightened out.

Billy T.
[email protected]
If I didn't already have all the gauges the scan guage would be a great idea...its inconvenient, but I do periodically hook up my laptop and run AE to keep an eye on how things are doin, but gauge form would be much more convenient.

Where/who you live tuning with? Dyno proven, Dp-tuner or PHP? It's kinda nice having all so close by.
 
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