I have a 2004 6.0 that I had a long block built for and I cant get base oil pressure. If you crank it without starting it it will build over 70psi of pressure if you start it it wont build any pressure at all. I am at a loss and everyone I have talked to is also any help would be appreciated!
Base oil pressure issues
- Thread starter 1960Fc170
- Start date
What are you using as an hpop? Pretty common for the early hpops to blow out the check ball from the side of the base. When that happens, it causes a massive base pressure leak that kills base pressure, but still flows enough to keep the hpop fed so it will run.
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That is the exact recommendation he got on the other forum he posted on (which he didn't respond to) ............ lol
https://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/base-oil-pressure-problem-655090/
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You have all the right answers, like you anticipated the recommendations.
Why not put all those things that you have done (and are trickling in on the 4 different forums) in the very first post? It would help in the troubleshooting. This way it is just a string of information slowly being communicated. Frustrating IMO.
Anyway, as I stated in the other forum's thread, it seems to be down to you having done something wrong IMO (or you have a base engine issue). I still think checking the o-ring on the bottom of the HPOP is the next step.
Also, when you report ICP pressure, always report volts too. We need to see if the reading is real or if it is a value assumed by the PCM.
Background:
Why not put all those things that you have done (and are trickling in on the 4 different forums) in the very first post? It would help in the troubleshooting. This way it is just a string of information slowly being communicated. Frustrating IMO.
Anyway, as I stated in the other forum's thread, it seems to be down to you having done something wrong IMO (or you have a base engine issue). I still think checking the o-ring on the bottom of the HPOP is the next step.
Also, when you report ICP pressure, always report volts too. We need to see if the reading is real or if it is a value assumed by the PCM.
Background:
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Was just wondering why it went to the shop (the shop that left the oil galley plug out) in the first place, and what all did they do? Was it acting this way (low base oil pressure) when it first went into the shop? Still the same problem leaving the shop? Did you do all the work you described after getting it back from the shop or was some or all of this work done at the shop?:
From your posts you replaced the HPOP, oil cooler, LPOP gears, LPOP cover, LPOP regulator, new OEM oil filter and cap, new oil filter housing drain valve, verified the oil pan pickup tube to be in place
Regarding the shop left the oil galley plug out, should they still be responsible for fixing the current issues?
Other possibilities for low base engine pressure:
(Already covered missing HPOP ball bearing, missing galley plugs, oil pan pickup tube is in place, LPOP regulator and gears are new, new front cover)
Front cover gasket leaks
Restriction inside the pick-up tube or oil pan
Missing bearing shell(s)
Broken or damaged piston cooling jets
From your posts you replaced the HPOP, oil cooler, LPOP gears, LPOP cover, LPOP regulator, new OEM oil filter and cap, new oil filter housing drain valve, verified the oil pan pickup tube to be in place
Regarding the shop left the oil galley plug out, should they still be responsible for fixing the current issues?
Other possibilities for low base engine pressure:
(Already covered missing HPOP ball bearing, missing galley plugs, oil pan pickup tube is in place, LPOP regulator and gears are new, new front cover)
Front cover gasket leaks
Restriction inside the pick-up tube or oil pan
Missing bearing shell(s)
Broken or damaged piston cooling jets
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I originally sent the shop my long block to have built after a head gasket failure. They blueprint bored and decked the block machined the heads and added o rings and studs. Balanced the rotating assembly, ceramic coated the pistons, installed a stage 2 cam and HD lifters and push rods. When I got it back I installed new WDI injectors a new oil cooler all new sensors KC stage 2 turbo Fass pump regulated return and coolant filter and put the motor back in the truck. When I started it it had 0 base oil pressure couldn't find anything wrong so hauled it 600 miles to his shop. He tore it down found a galley plug they left out fixed it and covered the cost. I flew down to get it made it halfway home lost pil pressure and quit running. Hauled it home and have been trying to find my issue. So yes I did all the high pressure side of thing then he had it all apart and back together again. Since getting it back this time I have checked the lpop even though it was new check the regulator installed a new one. Dropped the pan checked the pickup tube. Changed hpop. Changed oil coolers again after finding silicone in it from when they last had the truck. Was hoping that was my problem but it didnt help it. So whether its something he did or I did I dont really care at this point I just need to get my truck going and back on the road. I've been at a loss because everything that would normally be an issue isnt and looks fine. And most people have pressure at higher rpms and it drops off at an idle mine is acting the opposite it has little pressure at idle and the second you barely tap the gas what little you have is gone and wont come back. But if you crank it without starting it it will build 70 psi. I'm gonna air test it tonight and see what I get and go from there on looking for leaks. Long winded post but there's everything all the background on the truck now.
Ok, so due to the silicone issue you had, did you drop tje pickup tube or the upper oil pan when you had the pan down? Make sure they are not plugged with,silicone? I have seen that a few times when people get carried away with the ****...
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When you drove it "halfway home", was the engine oil pressure ok when you first started that drive? Were you watching an aftermarket oil pressure gauge then or watching the dash gauge?
So it was acting up BEFORE you changed the lpop gears, checked the oil pickup tube position, front cover, regulator, HPOP, and oil cooler. That seems to pretty much eliminate it from being due to work you did because it had the low pressure before you started the work.
Now you have me thinking that you might need to drop the pan again. Maybe a bunch of that silicone finally got to the pan and is plugging it up. At least drain the oil and stick a borescope in there. You can get a borescope for an i-phone pretty cheap these days.
edit - I guess I was typing when you were 6.0 Tech!
So it was acting up BEFORE you changed the lpop gears, checked the oil pickup tube position, front cover, regulator, HPOP, and oil cooler. That seems to pretty much eliminate it from being due to work you did because it had the low pressure before you started the work.
Now you have me thinking that you might need to drop the pan again. Maybe a bunch of that silicone finally got to the pan and is plugging it up. At least drain the oil and stick a borescope in there. You can get a borescope for an i-phone pretty cheap these days.
edit - I guess I was typing when you were 6.0 Tech!
I dropped the pickup tube when I had the pan off I didnt drop the upper oil pan though. Oil was clean didnt find anything in the pan. When I drove it home oil pressure was good at first then check gauge light came on and gauge in the dash showed nothing this was going down the interstate at around 2200 rpms when I let out of it pressure would come back on the gauge and light would go off. It seemed as if I kept it below 2100 rpms I was good. Then it did ot again awhile later and the rpms that i could run with out losing pressure kept getting lower until it finnaly had none and quit running. That was what I was seeing from the dummy guage in the dash. While I've been working on it since I've been using a mechanical gauge to get an actual pressure reading and verify that I do have a problem. It had the new lpop and a new oil cooler when this happened. I started checking everything once this happened and dropped the pan and checked the pump and cover and that's when I found the silicone in the cooler from the use of it on the filter housing base. And replaced it with an OEM and all new gaskets but didnt solve my issue.
Quite frankly the only thing that fits (IMO anyway) is a leak between the LPOP and HPOP.
From what you say you have plenty of low pressure when cranking (the regulator opens at 70 psig) and you have adequate high pressure when it starts and idles. Only when you try to get more high pressure flow does the pressure drop. A leak in the high pressure system would make it hard to start due to low pressure in the high pressure system. That doesn't seem to be happening.
It just seems that when the HPOP starts ramping up, more oil is pulled towards the HPOP, but doesn't make it there. Enough oil being pulled to result in the low pressure dropping dramatically.
That is why the pressed in ball bearing was first on everyone's mind. It is on the suction side of the pump.
From what you say you have plenty of low pressure when cranking (the regulator opens at 70 psig) and you have adequate high pressure when it starts and idles. Only when you try to get more high pressure flow does the pressure drop. A leak in the high pressure system would make it hard to start due to low pressure in the high pressure system. That doesn't seem to be happening.
It just seems that when the HPOP starts ramping up, more oil is pulled towards the HPOP, but doesn't make it there. Enough oil being pulled to result in the low pressure dropping dramatically.
That is why the pressed in ball bearing was first on everyone's mind. It is on the suction side of the pump.
What bismic said. Since its Got a threaded plug, and youre not sure on the yellow I ring, id be pulling the pump off to make Damn sure its there, and possibly not doubled up. Seen that before...
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