Battery Relocation

[TjMiller]

Now you got me thinking.. If one were to use the frame of the vehicle how do you figure resistance for the steel? Being such a large conductor is the frame more or less resistant than the copper assuming the connections are VG. I was thinking a separate ground from each battery, one to each frame rail then one on each side of the motor in the front.

I have more questions for the OP. I was wondering why he thought his battery life is so short. Is the truck plugged in overnight during the winter? How often is the truck started in severe conditions?

 

[GreasyFingers]

If you're looking for a crimper that won't break the bank check these out. Google hydraulic crimper to find them.

A buddy of mine has one of the top ones, I used them to fix my stock cables. They are rated at 10 tons and has dies up to 2/0. They're about $40. The second pic is the 16 ton version with dies up to 600 MCM. These are about $50, i have these on my wish list. I've been saying for years I'm going to relocate my batteries to a resessed box in the bed. I want to get them away from the heat. I would suggest adding some remote battery terminals so it would be easier to jump off or get jumped off if nessisary.

When I change the oil some time this weekend, I'll snap a pic to show the quality of the crimps these tools make. No need for a $3k tool that you may use once in a blue moon.

 

[bluedge8]

Now you got me thinking.. If one were to use the frame of the vehicle how do you figure resistance for the steel? Being such a large conductor is the frame more or less resistant than the copper assuming the connections are VG. I was thinking a separate ground from each battery, one to each frame rail then one on each side of the motor in the front.

I have more questions for the OP. I was wondering why he thought his battery life is so short. Is the truck plugged in overnight during the winter? How often is the truck started in severe conditions?

I have never tried to look up resistance of steel. Frames have been used by mfgr's for decades because it was cheap- there has been talk for years about going to wire grounds for reliability. If I were to relocate I would buy e-series battery box's for the frame and run wire grounds, at least to the starter and gpr.

If you're looking for a crimper that won't break the bank check these out. Google hydraulic crimper to find them.

A buddy of mine has one of the top ones, I used them to fix my stock cables. They are rated at 10 tons and has dies up to 2/0. They're about $40. The second pic is the 16 ton version with dies up to 600 MCM. These are about $50, i have these on my wish list. I've been saying for years I'm going to relocate my batteries to a resessed box in the bed. I want to get them away from the heat. I would suggest adding some remote battery terminals so it would be easier to jump off or get jumped off if nessisary.

When I change the oil some time this weekend, I'll snap a pic to show the quality of the crimps these tools make. No need for a $3k tool that you may use once in a blue moon.

Those look like a great deal, assuming they will crimp standard lugs and splices. The 16ton would be the way to go since it will do 6awg- 600mcm, the smaller one might not be enough for some people building custom relocation kits. I may just order one this weekend.

 

[GreasyFingers]

Yes they will. They paid for themselves 10x over on the first use... well, had I had bought it, I borrowed them. My stock terminals were stretched and broken. I cut them off stripped the wire, crimped on standard copper lugs, and adhesive lined heat shrink. It saved me from buying $500+ set of battery cables.

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[bluedge8]

Yes they will. They paid for themselves 10x over on the first use... well, had I had bought it, I borrowed them. My stock terminals were stretched and broken. I cut them off stripped the wire, crimped on standard copper lugs, and adhesive lined heat shrink. It saved me from buying $500+ set of battery cables.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

I can't remember where I found them, but I bought factory ford cables for my '96 for $65, but that is beside the point, I'm an electrician, so having one makes sense, and I always like buying tools.

 

[Jomax]

Oriellys has a battery cable for under 100$ and it's way thicker, worth every penny


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[GreasyFingers]

I priced them at Tousley. I believe it was $300 for the positive and knocking on $100 ea for the negatives iirc. But this was about 5 years ago. There are very few things I will buy at the typical parts houses, i.e. autozone, and especially oriellys. With tousley, I generally pay 10% more and get oem products that the original last me 10-15 years and hundreds of thousands of miles. I really hate doing work twice. I've learned my lesson when it comes to cheap parts houses

 

[Jomax]

I priced them at Tousley. I believe it was $300 for the positive and knocking on $100 ea for the negatives iirc. But this was about 5 years ago. There are very few things I will buy at the typical parts houses, i.e. autozone, and especially oriellys. With tousley, I generally pay 10% more and get oem products that the original last me 10-15 years and hundreds of thousands of miles. I really hate doing work twice. I've learned my lesson when it comes to cheap parts houses

The cables are USA made and upgraded to Fords wimpy cables




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[bluedge8]

I priced them at Tousley. I believe it was $300 for the positive and knocking on $100 ea for the negatives iirc. But this was about 5 years ago. There are very few things I will buy at the typical parts houses, i.e. autozone, and especially oriellys. With tousley, I generally pay 10% more and get oem products that the original last me 10-15 years and hundreds of thousands of miles. I really hate doing work twice. I've learned my lesson when it comes to cheap parts houses

I buy stuff from them too, I live 20 miles away LOL

 

[mikeeg02]

Now you got me thinking.. If one were to use the frame of the vehicle how do you figure resistance for the steel? Being such a large conductor is the frame more or less resistant than the copper assuming the connections are VG. I was thinking a separate ground from each battery, one to each frame rail then one on each side of the motor in the front.

IF you have to use the frame, you can, but to properly do so you need to take all the paint off, and go down to the bare metal, then use a dielectric grease or something to prevent moisture from getting in between the connector and frame. Then you have to seal the entire connection, to prevent what steel does. Rust. This is typically the source of alternator whine in the stereo. Also uses more lug connectors, which are getting expensive in the 00-0000 range, and is another way to disappoint you in your new battery system down the road. Steel always rusts. Rust is not a very good conductor, and usually requires/causes an arc to make the connection between the lug and the steel. Now limiting your current to what the arc bridged.

Using the frame to bridge batteries is a very poor idea in the long term. Especially when the OPs goal is an improved battery system in absolute conditions. When paralleling batteries, it is ALWAYS best to wire them from terminal to terminal with proper size wire to handle the current.

 

[TjMiller]

I agree. If it were my vehicle I would use copper wire. Im just thinking out loud, could even use those short pre-made cables for the grounds in that case. I thought soldering was the best way to make terminations, Ive always used the solder pellets that you drop in the ends no special tools to use those just need a propane torch.

I am interested in the aftermarket glow plug relays you spoke of. Can you elaborate give a few examples?

 

[TjMiller]

I am also still wondering why his batteries are so short lived and how he is controlling/monitoring the GP relay. Ive seen where guys run a lite to the dash from the relay to indicate when they shut off.

 

[mikeeg02]

I am interested in the aftermarket glow plug relays you spoke of. Can you elaborate give a few examples?

Stancor 586-002. I ran one on my 02 for years, and never a problem. It always started, and I never, ever plugged my truck in. I know I remember seeing -15. I only ever had to have them on for maybe 30 seconds. When it was that cold, on the first time I tried to crank it over, it would "bump" and shut down. Then on the second try it ALWAYS started and idled. Up until 310K or so when I finally got rid of it. They work perfect for glow plugs, not so much for bridging batteries with 00 or 0000 wire. They will burn out from the high inrush current of connecting discharged batteries together. Though in 5 years of running it as a GPR I never had an issue.

Can get it here
http://www.dieselorings.com/16-009-white-rodgers-stancor-586-902-monster-glow-plug-relay.html

Or at mouser.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=/ha2pyFadujfavematUS8/FcPCozw916awG91DlgI9A=


The one I put in the truck I have now is made by TE (tyco), and part number LEV200A4NAF. Its closer to the price of a Ford (~100) but it rated for repetitive high current switching applications. We use them to bridge/charge secondary battery systems we put into EMS vehicles. I decided to put one in my 7.3 for an endurance test myself.

http://www.digikey.com/product-deta...nse-and-marine/LEV200A4NAF/A101171-ND/2362824