Billet comp wheel swap on D66, Comp wheel won't budge!

Mickey427

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I have a older D66 turbo from beans that I'm doing the billet wheel upgrade in and can't get the wheel to come off. I have the turbo out off the truck and holding turbine wheel with a rag. I'm turning the wheel counter clockwise and got it to budge just hair and can move it back and forth just a little bit like a rusted bolt. Does the comp wheel come off ccw? I checked the threads and it looks the be a standard righty tighty lefty loosey thread pitch. I don't want to just hammer it off with an impact since many people say it can put micro fractures in the shaft that can lead to failure. How is the turbine wheel held onto the shaft? I want to be sure I don't screw that side of the charger up somehow. Also when I spin the shaft I can see the turbine wheel has a bit runout, It's not much but I can see it plain as day, could I possibly have a bent shaft? End play in the shaft feels good but there is a tight spot I can barely feel sometimes when I spin the shaft by hand. Lots of questions I know but thanks for taking your time to help me out guys!
 

co04cobra

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It's standard thread. You will have to hold the turbine shaft with more then your hand to get the wheel off. Now is a perfect time for a rebuild and 360* thrust bearing upgrade.

Is there any play in and out?
 

portlandareae28

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Cant wait to see what you think about the turbo after you finish this. I am thinking about the same setup.
 

Mickey427

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I have .002 thrust play and .023 play up/down as measured from the comp wheel nut. What is acceptable? Is there a preferred supplier for the 360 bushing rebuild kit? Looked it up and there's a very broad price range and lots of people are selling them. How much security will I really be gaining with a full 360 bushing vs stock 270? Truck isn't chipped yet but when I had my edge evolution turned up I was hitting 36 psi with stage 1 injectors and this D66. Was told 40 psi was max, does that number go up with the 360 bushing?
 

Mickey427

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I threw a pair of softeners on the vice and clamped onto the turbine nut to get the comp wheel off. Now I'm just curious to the 360° bushing kit and the turbine wheel runout.
 

co04cobra

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40psi is still going to be a safe range to stay in but the 360* will help it live longer at those levels.

Doesn't sound like you necessarily need to rebuild it with only that much play. It was just a suggestion because it's easy to do while it's off.

For the 360 kit look up Barder turbo service on here.
 
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40psi is still going to be a safe range to stay in but the 360* will help it live longer at those levels.

Doesn't sound like you necessarily need to rebuild it with only that much play. It was just a suggestion because it's easy to do while it's off.

For the 360 kit look up Barder turbo service on here.

Mine didn't last long at 40 psi, but I didn't have a 360* thrust bearing.
 

co04cobra

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Mine didn't last long at 40 psi, but I didn't have a 360* thrust bearing.



Right. IMO it significantly increases the life of turbo. OP sounds like he only has stage 1s so may not be as crucial, but is still a great upgrade.
 

Mickey427

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I decided to go ahead with the 360° thrust bearing rebuild kit and I'm gonna send it out for balancing too since the turbine wheel doesn't run true. I have beans billet wheel for the D66. Thanks for the help guys. When I get the truck up and running again I'll post what I think of the new wheel.
 

Mickey427

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Well I have the engine out due to having to replace the timing cover and decided to do the turbo and build a windage tray. I decided to pull a main cap and check the main bearings and I have main cap walking and fretting with arp main studs. I've only got stage 1 injectors with the d66 turbo and bone stock programming. Never got around to getting a chip for it so she's been stock. I plan on starting a new thread on this once I figure out how to post pictures from my phone.
 

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