SEABEE08FX4
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If you swap wheels I'd recommend having it rebalanced before you run it.
Billet WWII into BW S366?
- Thread starter JCart
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SEABEE08FX4
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I'm running an HTT S371, fantastic turbo. Might be the hot ticket for some of you guys running bigger injectors.
jwlandry
Active member
yes. 91 housing.
jwlandry
Active member
Who balances turbos?
Ad8 PRODIGY
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All I know of is mpd recently got a machine that does the turbo or the wheel itself. Not sure at the moment. Its on their fb page
SEABEE08FX4
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Most any local turbo shop should have a balancing machine.
sootie
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Powerstroke Cowboy
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This is a common miss conception. It all depends on what model or brand the turbo is..
Yes to balance them as a whole is good. But some of the major turbo maker's only component ( ie, the comp wheel is balance in of itself and the exhaust wheel and shaft are balanced as a component being there are one part) balance there parts. They do not balance them as a whole..
Garrett component balances there turbos.
Don't get me wrong I agree it is a good practice to balance them as a whole. Just not needed for most applications.
SEABEE08FX4
New member
If it were my truck or a customers truck it would get balanced as an assembly, its the only way to do it right. You can balance a wheel and then balance a tire separately but put them together and have them not balance out after they are assembled together for example.
Just my .02 if it were my ride.
Swaan
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FWI. I just had a ww2 put in a brand new box 366 with a .91 housing. Going to try it out this weekend. Let you know how it performed
JCart
Member
Saaaweeet.... Will be watching for comments. Get your injectors in too?
Mine have landed from PIS and I have my T500 and new IPR, UVC harness and some other engine trinkets from RiffRaff just landed. Just waiting on reprogrammed chip, weather to warm up some and still have this fawken flu to kill off. Gonna also install the steel inserts in the HPOP bolt holes while I'm their.
Looking forward to your comments Re your WWII / 366
J
Swaan
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Got them in and engines running. Just waiting on drive shafts , should have them today.
Probley be doing the maiden engine break in tommorow.
Thinkng I might hook on to my 8000lb tt and hit the hwy to seat those new rings. We don't want a oil burner!! Lol
So far new injectors and engine run real smoooooooth. Real responsive on the pedal too!!
My chip comes back Monday from Matt but word is it should run just fine for now on stock programming. According to Tim at pis.
Probley be doing the maiden engine break in tommorow.
Thinkng I might hook on to my 8000lb tt and hit the hwy to seat those new rings. We don't want a oil burner!! Lol
So far new injectors and engine run real smoooooooth. Real responsive on the pedal too!!
My chip comes back Monday from Matt but word is it should run just fine for now on stock programming. According to Tim at pis.
I'd be interesting in hearing what you think of the S366 with WWII versus the LASB.
~Mitch
Swaan
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Your not kidding Mitch. The 366 got some big shoes to fill. I know it's not going to be as quick to spool as the lasb because of the bigger turbine but I'm thinking the ww2 comp wheel will help with that. Was going to go 467 but have heard it's a tight fit in a obs. Should have it on road tommorow shifting gears tryin it out. Will let you know.
?? I understand the purpose, but there isnt that much load on the bolts since they thread into aluminum also. Are guys getting results from it?
JCart
Member
I think the gear cut and rotation as well as pump collar where it mounts holds it in place. Results meaning do threaded steel inserts work? Yes they are just a more robust heli coil. You drill over size, tap, screw in steel insert so it's just deeper than front cover HPOP mounting surface. My understanding is these are used all the time when bolts strip the aluminum front cover. Thought I'd do it as a preventative, while I'm in there.
jrc
jrc
JCart
Member
As the HPOP bolts into the aluminum front cover, I thought as I already have off I may as well put the steel E-Z Lok thread repair inserts in. Outside threads are 1/2"-13 tpi and inside are M8-1.25. Drill bit is 27/64th and of course the tap is 1/2-13. I bought a really short drill bit and with 18volt small frame drill shouldn't be too challenging to do I hope. The outside of the inserts already have a adhesive on them. Sort of preventative stripping mashing strategy....
jrc
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