block prep for studs and gaskets

[kevin]

Ok all you big horse power guys What are you doing to make these head gaskets hold, I dont need to hear the same Ol' flat heads, oem gasket, arp yadda yadda yadda.. What are you guys doing to prep the block, What torque spec's you using on the studs, any special tricks i should know? this is the 3rd time my gaskets have let go, im putting compounds on now with 205s and i hope to make this my last gasket job lol... So lets hear it!

 

[lubeowner]

Ok all you big horse power guys What are you doing to make these head gaskets hold, I dont need to hear the same Ol' flat heads, oem gasket, arp yadda yadda yadda.. What are you guys doing to prep the block, What torque spec's you using on the studs, any special tricks i should know? this is the 3rd time my gaskets have let go, im putting compounds on now with 205s and i hope to make this my last gasket job lol... So lets hear it!

What you said is what to do. If that hasn't worked for you in the past then take it to someone else.

 

[Marty]

I agree. Heads will come back from the machine shop ready to put on.

I use a scraper to get big **** off then use green roloc disks on block. Check for flatness with precision straight edge. Make sure everything is clean.

 

[MorganY]

sub'd I need to know this as well. Im planning on using those 3M scotchbrite pads to prep the block.

 

[kevin]

sub'd I need to know this as well. Im planning on using those 3M scotchbrite pads to prep the block.

dont use the brown ones lol thats way my 1st block had do be decked they really eat at the metal lol... i think the green ones like marty said are the ticket

 

[Mdub707]

I've asked this question numerous times on different boards and have not gotten a repeat answer. It seems everyone has their own methods.

Here's the thread from PSA I had... http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7758&highlight=block+prep

 

[MorganY]

dont use the brown ones lol thats way my 1st block had do be decked they really eat at the metal lol... i think the green ones like marty said are the ticket

I was thinking maybe the red ones?

 

[Pizza pig]

we use these 3m rubber disks to clean the crap off the block, theyre rubber so they dont take off any material, and clean residues with brake kleen

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...0000_nid=GSQ2B13327gsRJ5GMFSMV0glGS2L6DWY97bl

 

[hawgdoctor]

we use these 3m rubber disks to clean the crap off the block, theyre rubber so they dont take off any material, and clean residues with brake kleen

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...0000_nid=GSQ2B13327gsRJ5GMFSMV0glGS2L6DWY97bl

This is what we have used on all of ours along with a surface stone to make sure it's as flat as it can be. Nothing but good results.

 

[Mdub707]

This is what we have used on all of ours along with a surface stone to make sure it's as flat as it can be. Nothing but good results.

Where do you get your surface stones from and what exactly are you using? (grit?)

Thanks

 

[Marty]

I do not use surface stones but I do use a precision straight edge after cleaning is done and use a .001 feelers gauge.

You will not get all of the shadows out and you do not want to try and "flatten" any low spots. If they are there then you have more problems.

 

[hawgdoctor]

Check these out. Have one of the blue stones I use. Won't surface the block, but will show you if you have any bad spots.
http://www.timbertools.com/Products/Belgian-Coticule.html

 

[hawgdoctor]

I do not use surface stones but I do use a precision straight edge after cleaning is done and use a .001 feelers gauge.

You will not get all of the shadows out and you do not want to try and "flatten" any low spots. If they are there then you have more problems.

Oh so true. Seen a couple done at other shops that it looks like they were trying to dig the pitting out. Needless to say those gaskets didn't last long...

 

[Mdub707]

So you guys are using these stones merely to check flatness with a feeler gauge? So it's more or less your "flat edge" you're not actually running it over the surface to smooth it out, or are you?

 

[Marty]

I can't speak for anyone else but I use a straight edge on both the heads and block with a feelers gauge to check for flatness. EVERY single head stud job I have done I have had to take at least something off of them to either clean up the pitting, warpage, gasket material or whatever.

I check end to end, top to bottom between cylinders and corner to corner. As long as the edges along the cylinder and gaskets are sharp, flat, clean and not pitted you are usually fine. I have problems when people come to me when they blew their gaskets 50k miles ago and the combustion gasses have actually eroded the block between the cylinder and coolant passage.

 

[Mdub707]

So what do you do if you find it out of flat, you actually take the block out and have it decked???

 

[Redneck6.0L]

Spray the bolt holes in the block with brake kleen, blow them out. Make sure the bolt holes are oil/soot/cvrap free. Brake clean the bottom of the studfs with brake kleen, blow them off. Do not use any lubricantes what so ever on the bottom of the stud that screws into the head. Make sure u have a dry stud to block contact. You don't need them moving. Only use the arp lube on the top of the stud that you put the nuts on. Other than that. Dry, flat surefaces. Torque all bolts even to 50ft/lbs then 100, then 175 then 250. Even with the new lube I still torque then to 250.

 

[Mdub707]

Spray the bolt holes in the block with brake kleen, blow them out. Make sure the bolt holes are oil/soot/cvrap free. Brake clean the bottom of the studfs with brake kleen, blow them off. Do not use any lubricantes what so ever on the bottom of the stud that screws into the head. Make sure u have a dry stud to block contact. You don't need them moving. Only use the arp lube on the top of the stud that you put the nuts on. Other than that. Dry, flat surefaces. Torque all bolts even to 50ft/lbs then 100, then 175 then 250. Even with the new lube I still torque then to 250.

You're also pushing a teeny weeny bit more power than I ever will be. Think 250 is still necessary? Knowing what I know about tensioning studs, I'm always nervous when anyone recommends going above recommended torque values...

Appreciate all the input here guys.

 

[kevin]

Spray the bolt holes in the block with brake kleen, blow them out. Make sure the bolt holes are oil/soot/cvrap free. Brake clean the bottom of the studfs with brake kleen, blow them off. Do not use any lubricantes what so ever on the bottom of the stud that screws into the head. Make sure u have a dry stud to block contact. You don't need them moving. Only use the arp lube on the top of the stud that you put the nuts on. Other than that. Dry, flat surefaces. Torque all bolts even to 50ft/lbs then 100, then 175 then 250. Even with the new lube I still torque then to 250.

Do you put the studs in finger tight like they say it maybe a little tighter?

 

[97strokn&smokn]

I can't speak for anyone else but I use a straight edge on both the heads and block with a feelers gauge to check for flatness. EVERY single head stud job I have done I have had to take at least something off of them to either clean up the pitting, warpage, gasket material or whatever.

I check end to end, top to bottom between cylinders and corner to corner. As long as the edges along the cylinder and gaskets are sharp, flat, clean and not pitted you are usually fine. I have problems when people come to me when they blew their gaskets 50k miles ago and the combustion gasses have actually eroded the block between the cylinder and coolant passage.

Thats what we do also, It seems like almost every job we get the block surface needs a ton of work.