Blowin Boots
- Thread starter juniort444e
- Start date
juniort444e
New member
HAHAHAHAHAHA Yea. I would be up ****creek without a paddle, boat, food and shelter.
Also noticed the plenum has a dent in it, either from over tightening, or the way the clamp was forced off. Thatll be fixed as soon as the stuff gets here, wish i upgraded the shipping.
So i shouldnt have to worry about valves being bent or anything internal then, from a crazy pressure difference. Thats what im more afraid of. Not looking forward to swapping a motor in right now.
Also noticed the plenum has a dent in it, either from over tightening, or the way the clamp was forced off. Thatll be fixed as soon as the stuff gets here, wish i upgraded the shipping.
So i shouldnt have to worry about valves being bent or anything internal then, from a crazy pressure difference. Thats what im more afraid of. Not looking forward to swapping a motor in right now.
Arisley
Moderator
Sounds like you may have overspun the turbo one to many times.
No, but I will say you need to stop running it hard enough to pop the boots. Its not the best thing for it and you know they are not going to hold so keep you boost below 40 until you get the new boots and clamps on there. Also you want to still stay inside your compressor map when you do get it back together proper. Find out wjere it realy starts to climb past 1:1r hard and make that your limit until you can get a waste gate on it to control it. I really wish now I had taken the extra couple weeks to get the kit made with a waste gate as I am stil going to have tp pull it all out to put one on. I hate doing things twice because of poor planning.
V-Ref
Active member
If your concerned about the motor and want to rule in/out your long block...It's a PITA, but as a smart guy once told me, a compression test tells all. If you don't have access to one (compression tester), I'm sure a forum member can square you away, like they did me.
Can you be more descriptive/specific about the vibration? Truck vibrating or motor? Vibration more pronounced with it in neutral coasting vs. uphill loading the motor? How many PSI did you see when the boot(s) blew? RPM vs. Speed vs. load vs. PSI..... That might help folks give you advice and see if it's smart to pull VCs/trannys and look at bigger/uglier things.
Fl Stroker
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Hope it's not a PMR rod. I remember the vibration. :doh: Best of luck figuring it out.
juniort444e
New member
Ok ill try my best. Put the boots on today, the one clamp wouldnt hold well, so i just made sure the boot wasnt going anywhere and didnt go to crazy.
Its still sluggish, obviously because the boot isnt clamped down, turbo sounds like it usually does, But i did check the wheel yet. Will a little bit later on today.
As for the vibration, well its not really there today. But i did notice that when i let off the throttle, it slows down (kind of like an exhaust brake feel) really fast. So im going to check the brakes again.
Could it be something in the transmission acting up. I dont know anything about transmissions.
And i didnt have the power wires hooked up yet:doh::doh: on the pyro or boost. Have been really busy and figured it wouldnt hurt. :doh:
Going to try to get that part done today. I took the oil cap off to, and there isnt any pressure coming out, so thats good.
BUT, i did find a huge chunck of blower motor shroud missing, my guess is when the two boots blew the intercooler pipe hit it with some force and took a big piece out. Should i try to fix that also. Dont know much about the blower housings and such.
juniort444e
New member
Tarm, if you could help me out a little on the compressor map thing that would be great. I dont know how to read it or even understand it. My turbo is the gt journal bearing 4202, with 1.15.
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
diesel site boots here too! ive taken clamps off and ran it for a while cuz i couldn't get the boot off, had it to 30psi and didn't blow... like arisley said almost had to cut them off.....and thats with no sticky stuff, just clean surfaces
Big Bore
Active member
Soo.....enough boost to blow boots, and no pyro. LOL
juniort444e
New member
Yea, dumb right. But couldnt resist driving around. It will be hooked up today tho. But it might be to late if i already messed up more.
Yes I can help at least to as far as my understanding goes. Might not be that far or do you mind reverse. LOL. No seriously I can explain the basics of them. But do yourself a favor and go here first and read the entire techs all as many times as you need. That's how I firat started a couple yrs ago I guess it is now. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/tech_center.html
You will likely be ok as long as you were not driving around with boost leaks pushing things and lugging it as you were running proper tunes. The boots blowing might have kept you from holding wot runs, that is where egts can spike out crazy, for too long. Also should have kept you from going too far out of the turbos maps as well. You will know when you drive around once you get it hooked up. You realy do not want to go over 1250 for any extended period and IMO never over 1600 at all. Those are limits I set for myself and frankly I would prefer to never see 1600 more like 1400.
You will likely be ok as long as you were not driving around with boost leaks pushing things and lugging it as you were running proper tunes. The boots blowing might have kept you from holding wot runs, that is where egts can spike out crazy, for too long. Also should have kept you from going too far out of the turbos maps as well. You will know when you drive around once you get it hooked up. You realy do not want to go over 1250 for any extended period and IMO never over 1600 at all. Those are limits I set for myself and frankly I would prefer to never see 1600 more like 1400.
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Marty
New member
I run a 4 ply boot that is 3/4" longer then factory. Use a total of 4 ct350 clamps and no strap.
My issue before was a loose engine mount and that's why i couldbt keep the intake y on about two or three years ago. I also welded exhaust inside my plenum. But now I only use riff raff inserts.
My issue before was a loose engine mount and that's why i couldbt keep the intake y on about two or three years ago. I also welded exhaust inside my plenum. But now I only use riff raff inserts.
Marty
New member
juniort444e
New member
Thanks for all the help. Still waiting on the parts. I will check my motor mount bolts and what not tomorrow after work. The one boot isnt fully clamped and is leaking a little bit, but she still runs good enough to get to work and back. Need that tuning very soon.
Tree Trimmer
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fwiw, i kept blowing my ic tubes off, didnt matter what side, what end. turns out, i had clamped them down to tight. what it does is shrinks the end of the tube. think the end of a pencil, though not as drastic. if you take the tubes off, take them to the bench and gently hit the inside of the tube with a ball peen hammer, you can reform the end of the tube and mushroom it slightly out. i didnt even clean off the tubes when i put it back together, left them oily, and didnt have a problem. imo, thats better than a weld around the lip.
i think most ppl overlook that when they blow the boots off. they think oh, it was the oil, or they need to clamp better, or more clamp, or more boot surface etc etc. check the end of the tube itself. you should be able to take a straight edge, i used a t-square, and just check it. or a caliper if you got one. if it bows in at the end of the tube, that was your problem. thats also what welding the end of the tube fixes. it makes the end of the tube wider again than the tube.
you have to take into account, X HUNDRED degrees of air goin through those thin ALUMINUM pipes with X amount of clamping force ALWAYS, is eventually gonna bow them in. cannot get around it. i simply did a free fix, rather than spend money.
i think most ppl overlook that when they blow the boots off. they think oh, it was the oil, or they need to clamp better, or more clamp, or more boot surface etc etc. check the end of the tube itself. you should be able to take a straight edge, i used a t-square, and just check it. or a caliper if you got one. if it bows in at the end of the tube, that was your problem. thats also what welding the end of the tube fixes. it makes the end of the tube wider again than the tube.
you have to take into account, X HUNDRED degrees of air goin through those thin ALUMINUM pipes with X amount of clamping force ALWAYS, is eventually gonna bow them in. cannot get around it. i simply did a free fix, rather than spend money.
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juniort444e
New member
Well the i installed everything last night, and proceeded to beat the hell out of her on my way to truck night. My two buddies trucks couldnt keep up, f150 4.6 and a chevy something. My buddy that owns the chevy is always cocky, until i zipped past him 50 times. Thanks for the advice everyone. So far all good. I only have one clamp on everything too. Will double them up soon just to be on the safe side.
FN74
New member
Not sure if it will help here or not, but going to throw out a MacGyver moment idea I had on a road trip once when I blew a boot, then couldn't keep it on with anything more then 10 psi of boost and no stores around. After about the 10th time in a mile of blowing the boots off(some big azz hill in eastern oregon on Hwy 26), I was about ready to let my truck just roll in neutral down the hill and call cab.
Well I did some digging around in my tool box and found a few hose clamps and extra boost clamps. So I Put a boost clamp on the boot AND one on the metal pipe. I undid the hose clamps so they were basically metal straps. Then I ran the straps between the two boost clamps, under them, spaced 180 apart, then folded the ends of the straps back over the top of the clamps, and tightened the boost clamps. This mechanically tied the two clamps together, one hold the pipe itself, and one sealing the boot. This allowed me to finish my 3,000 mile road trip without ever blowing another boot and thus not having to sabotage my truck out of anger.
One doesn't have to be quite so Hillbilly about it, but using 2 pieces of strapping material, flat riveting, or even tack welding them to a pair of clamps where one is on the boot and one is on the pipe I would think would work out pretty damn well. No Hairspray needed so the boots can be removed. And oil doesn't much matter either. Any of that make sense?
Well I did some digging around in my tool box and found a few hose clamps and extra boost clamps. So I Put a boost clamp on the boot AND one on the metal pipe. I undid the hose clamps so they were basically metal straps. Then I ran the straps between the two boost clamps, under them, spaced 180 apart, then folded the ends of the straps back over the top of the clamps, and tightened the boost clamps. This mechanically tied the two clamps together, one hold the pipe itself, and one sealing the boot. This allowed me to finish my 3,000 mile road trip without ever blowing another boot and thus not having to sabotage my truck out of anger.
One doesn't have to be quite so Hillbilly about it, but using 2 pieces of strapping material, flat riveting, or even tack welding them to a pair of clamps where one is on the boot and one is on the pipe I would think would work out pretty damn well. No Hairspray needed so the boots can be removed. And oil doesn't much matter either. Any of that make sense?
juniort444e
New member
What you just wrote is what i was thinking of doing for awhile. But the problem with a tack weld or a rivet is how the hell will i get them on and off if need be. Its a pain to even get the boots on with the new spider without clamps. If these hold and do what they are expected to i shouldnt have any worries. I need to get two longer boots for the upper pieces. Those ones keep blowing off too. But i have them clamped pretty good with a few extras just in case.
