Build opinions

ruffneck7.3 · Jan 22, 2017

I've been trying to decide on what combination to do for my truck and needed some opinions. My truck is an 01, I verified forged rods, and right now all I have is an AIS intake, exhaust and a hydra.

I have decided that I want to go the t4 route, I know drop in is cheaper, and I'm going to do a full fuel system regardless. I just want a fun daily drivable truck that's reliable, and I don't exactly have a hp goal, maybe 450-500?

I've been considering either stage 2's and a s36x sxe or up to 250's dialed back a little with a s467. So from the Daily driver crowd, what's everyone's opinions, experiences combos, etc?

The Brad · Jan 22, 2017

Do you plan on adding head studs and valve springs? Once I addd the 364.5, the combo in my signature is working perfectly. No smoke or EGT issues!

Powerstroker7.3 · Jan 22, 2017

If you are shooting for around 500 I would definitely add pushrods valve springs and head studs. I know cause when I made that power I had valve to piston contact. As far as injectors I would go with some 250/100 or 200% nozzles and either a s467 or the s369sxe. I have heard great things about them so far but have never seen one work personally. I have a buddy that is running 250/200 s467 just and adrenaline hpop with studs pushrods springs on a forged motor and hasn't had any problems with it. The truck is plenty fast and spools great. I think it's a great daily driver setup

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ruffneck7.3 · Jan 22, 2017

Thanks for the responses, I definitely plan to add headstuds, valve springs and pushrods, I think I'll replace the hpop when I have a problem with it...

Brad, how does your setup spool compared to stock?

The Brad · Jan 22, 2017

ruffneck7.3 said:
Thanks for the responses, I definitely plan to add headstuds, valve springs and pushrods, I think I'll replace the hpop when I have a problem with it...

Brad, how does your setup spool compared to stock?

Stock doesn't compare. I can hit 35psi before 2k rpm, it can probably do more, but that's all the pedal I can give it without the trans downshifting.

https://youtu.be/r_6V4NGfi98

ruffneck7.3 · Jan 22, 2017

Dam! I like the sounds of that! I also forgot to say that I'm a 6 speed, so spooling is important to me... I don't tow a whole lot, and when I do its usually my boat or a car trailer.
What hp would you say your around with the s364?

The Brad · Jan 22, 2017

I've never dynoed, or ran the 1/4....hell, I haven't even let her eat yet since my single stock fuel pump won't hold pressure in my hot tune. Got the dual pump setup ready to go in, but life is busy right now. Mikeeg02 on here is running a 366sxe with 238/100s and his is a 6 speed. IIRC he can make 15psi at 1500rpm smoke free.

Arisley · Jan 22, 2017

I can hit about 50 PSI before 100 ft off the line. I have an H2E and 250\200. I daily drive it and average 18 miles a gallon.

mtsnowrunner · Jan 22, 2017

With the 6 speed I would do 250/100's and the 364.5 for the best quick spoil. 369 if you don't want the low RPM drive ability. I run 250/100's with the BASB and it works really well. I sometimes think about bigger but it just flat works and hauls ass.

thatdude · Jan 22, 2017

You can make 500 with 160/100s lol. Do beehive valve springs, studs and push rods. 910s are not enough to keep those valves from floating at 3700 RPM and 50lbs of boost... Trust me, need new pistons because of this.

You're on the right path. Your pistons will eventually fail but that's more of an international design issue. Just like the Duramax, the 7.3 pistons don't have a radius on the fuel bowl lip and this causes a stress riser and cracks will form and eventually intersect and blow a hole. Stock trucks will form cracks!

Just pulled my heads off after 2 years of running in 475ish RWHP range and I got 6 pistons with cracks coming from the fuel bowls and out of those 6, 2 have impact marks from the valves floating. Still made compression!!!

cjfarm111 · Jan 23, 2017

175/80's with supporting mods and a sxe 264.5 will get you around your goal. Also expect to do a transmission not long after your upgrade

lincolnlocker · Jan 23, 2017

thatdude said:
You can make 500 with 160/100s lol. Do beehive valve springs, studs and push rods. 910s are not enough to keep those valves from floating at 3700 RPM and 50lbs of boost... Trust me, need new pistons because of this.

You're on the right path. Your pistons will eventually fail but that's more of an international design issue. Just like the Duramax, the 7.3 pistons don't have a radius on the fuel bowl lip and this causes a stress riser and cracks will form and eventually intersect and blow a hole. Stock trucks will form cracks!

Just pulled my heads off after 2 years of running in 475ish RWHP range and I got 6 pistons with cracks coming from the fuel bowls and out of those 6, 2 have impact marks from the valves floating. Still made compression!!!

no, no you can not make 500hp with 160/100s.. you might hit 500 fwhp.. but not rwhp.. those are basic injectors for a 400 to 430 rwhp setup.. nobody on here talks in engine horse power except when someone is running on swamps engine dyno..

I dont know who you are but you joined yesterday and this is the second thread that you have gave misinformation in.. now unless you are talking engine horse power then you need to specify..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

elrodalexander73 · Jan 24, 2017

I ran 250/200s and a useless D66 rebalanced with a wicked wheel and got mid 500s.. Did 575 on Clarke Powers Dyno but I don't think it was that accurate as we dynoed lots of trucks. I still have the engine and the egts were hard to control hence the scored cylinder walls. I ran studs springs and pushrods and a homeade port job (nothing fancy). For ultimate options go T4 out the gate so turbo options and different housing options become much easier to change. They're is alot of gooood knowledge in alot of threads on here!

thatdude · Jan 24, 2017

lincolnlocker said:
no, no you can not make 500hp with 160/100s.. you might hit 500 fwhp.. but not rwhp.. those are basic injectors for a 400 to 430 rwhp setup.. nobody on here talks in engine horse power except when someone is running on swamps engine dyno..

I dont know who you are but you joined yesterday and this is the second thread that you have gave misinformation in.. now unless you are talking engine horse power then you need to specify..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

Whatever you say big guy. It's not 2007 anymore. I have another account but I can't remember the password, try not to get on here too much because I honestly hate people but I'm sealing a deal on a few things in the classifieds. Figured I'm chime in here because I've been there, done that... Unlike alot of guys on here. But hey, is what it is. Don't have to believe me.

If you're running a D66 or 38R turbo on a superduty, Fass fuel system, no head work, and some canned tunes from even TW or DP... You're not gonna hit those numbers. IF you do everything right... You can make it happen. Or you can play the same game that everyone was going back in 2007. That's fine too. I'm not much of one to judge, I just like going fast.

superpsd · Jan 24, 2017

So this 500 was on an engine dyno?

mandkole · Jan 24, 2017

500 is the new 400.. I've never put down over 502, yet everyone and his brother seems to crush it today with 100 nozzled anything. Yet you rarely hear of or see 100+ mph lap tickets. Just sayin

Tsgs69400 · Jan 24, 2017

Only way i can figue getting 500 horsepower on 160cc injectors would be as Lincolnlocker stated, on an engine dyno. Plus, i would expect the engine to be able to rev higher than stock to pull those numbers. Even at that i feel it would be a push. There is only so much power potential with x - quantity of fuel.
200-238cc units will likley break into the 500 range depending on rpm and dyno type.
If there is some new tech out that is changing these general guidelines i would appreciate the chance to learn more.

lincolnlocker · Jan 24, 2017

Tsgs69400 said:
Only way i can figue getting 500 horsepower on 160cc injectors would be as Lincolnlocker stated, on an engine dyno. Plus, i would expect the engine to be able to rev higher than stock to pull those numbers. Even at that i feel it would be a push. There is only so much power potential with x - quantity of fuel.
200-238cc units will likley break into the 500 range depending on rpm and dyno type.
If there is some new tech out that is changing these general guidelines i would appreciate the chance to learn more.

dont need rpm to make horse power.. my motor, on beans dyno when I had it live tuned, flatlined from 2800 to 3200 rpm. that dyno said it made 490+ hp... track times put it at 450hp by mph.. 470hp by e.t... very very rare to have a 170/100 make over 430hp to the ground.. if it was that easy, everyone would post those numbers..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

superpsd · Jan 25, 2017

Tsgs69400 said:
Only way i can figue getting 500 horsepower on 160cc injectors would be as Lincolnlocker stated, on an engine dyno. Plus, i would expect the engine to be able to rev higher than stock to pull those numbers. Even at that i feel it would be a push. There is only so much power potential with x - quantity of fuel.
200-238cc units will likley break into the 500 range depending on rpm and dyno type.
If there is some new tech out that is changing these general guidelines i would appreciate the chance to learn more.

Yet you can't typically. Most basic A codes don't flow well over 2800. Maybe with larger nozzles and some injector modifications to remove restriction. By that point you could have paid less for a set of hybrids that will out do a stage 2 injector. The hybrid is going to move more fuel in less time which what is needed to make power at rpms beyond 3K.

This was P. I. S. testing his 160/30 vs a competitors 160/100
https://youtu.be/lTNVAS1cSQ4

cjfarm111 · Jan 25, 2017

Those are both a codes right? Sooo what makes a hybrid better than an a code? I know the a code uses more oil but besides that aspect what makes the hybrid better?