Built Motor

Southmike · Oct 31, 2013

I don't think I would ever go to stock ...stock chipped yes.

Petro · Oct 31, 2013

vanderchevy18 said:
Making a ccsb 4x4 truck fast is an oxymoron. It's always going to be slow no matter how fast it is. It'll only ever be "fast for a crew cab". I don't want to be fast for a crew cab. I want to be fast. That's why the ccsb is going back stock and the engine and trans is going in the new 2wd 4,000 lb race truck. Power don't mean **** if you weigh the same as a Panzer tank. Look at Dennis Schroeder. He has gone faster on a PMR motor than I have with a "fully built" motor. He also weighs half what I do.

You give me $12k to put into any truck that I choose, I'll give you a low 11 second 1/4 mile street monster 7.3 on a stock bottom end. Stock bottom will hold 600 for a really long time. Now you put that in a gutted 2wd rcsb with slicks that weighs 4000-4500 lbs and you have a fast truck on a budget.

You don't modify a 7.3 because it's fast or cheap. You modify a 7.3 because you love the 7.3. I own 2 6.0's and 2 7.3's. Some day I'll own either a Duramax or a 6.4. I may even buy the new diesel Chevy Colorado. I'll never trade my 7.3's off for one though.

I almost teared up after reading that. I feel the same way. Long live the 7.3.

vanderchevy18 · Oct 31, 2013

Well, by stock I mean maybe 400-500hp. That's it though. Stock 7.3's suck. LOL

Lysons · Oct 31, 2013

vanderchevy18 said:
Well, by stock I mean maybe 400-500hp. That's it though. Stock 7.3's suck. LOL

I like my 7.3 how it is, it's fun to drive! (To me.)
But if I had the chance to pull the motor and build it, I wouldn't pass it up.

TyCorr · Oct 31, 2013

Will a 238 with a 200% nozzle break 500hp most of the time? Im assuming yes since 200/200s have and chucky.cheese did it with a 200/30 years ago.

isootmypants · Oct 31, 2013

vanderchevy18 said:
Well, by stock I mean maybe 400-500hp. That's it though. Stock 7.3's suck. LOL

Haha Chris, idk if I would ever get use to a bone stock 7.3 again either. At least 238/80s and a 38r I would need

isootmypants · Oct 31, 2013

TyCorr said:
Will a 238 with a 200% nozzle break 500hp most of the time? Im assuming yes since 200/200s have and chucky.cheese did it with a 200/30 years ago.

I did 606 with 250/100s so most def

TyCorr · Oct 31, 2013

Ok. I have a 38r that could be opened up to 68mm and a larger 1.15 exh housing.

Im going to be running this sucker on the street so Im not.certain the 200% nozzle will be ideal. Mattr says I should grab a 238/80 and enjoy. Im just hellbent on a 200/238/250 w/200% nozzle.

isootmypants · Oct 31, 2013

Throw in some 238/200s with that 38r...you'll be around 500. Change to a t4 or t4i with a 66-72mm and you should see 550-600

vanderchevy18 · Oct 31, 2013

Why the hell would you ever buy 238's? Capacity doesn't mean anything until you start emptying them. Buy a 250/xxx. It's the same price as any other stage 3 hybrid. Even if you get 30% nozzles, get a 250cc. It's the same price and you're not hammering your plunger every time you want max power.

Tim @ P.I.S. · Nov 1, 2013

vanderchevy18 said:
Why the hell would you ever buy 238's? Capacity doesn't mean anything until you start emptying them. Buy a 250/xxx. It's the same price as any other stage 3 hybrid. Even if you get 30% nozzles, get a 250cc. It's the same price and you're not hammering your plunger every time you want max power.

If your plunger is hammering anything you have bigger problems. It should never contact, even at full stroke.

earlybroncoboy · Nov 1, 2013

bruce said:
if i can keep gettin them for almost free i will too

I agree pay 15-20 for a built motor to run 650+ or buy a cheap spare. I have 306k miles on my truck been runin 500+ setup for a year and about 7000 miles going to push into 600+ here real soon with 400/200 and an s468. Is it going to blow...... probably. Could I get another 10-15k out of her. Been done before. Have a spare motor that was super cheap if or when it does. Would be nice to have a built motor for peice and mind but I just can't justify spending the coin on it....

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

vanderchevy18 · Nov 1, 2013

Tim @ P.I.S. said:
If your plunger is hammering anything you have bigger problems. It should never contact, even at full stroke.

It was a point being made.

TyCorr · Nov 1, 2013

vanderchevy18 said:
It was a point being made.

Got your point. My thought was maybe a tuner would tune a 250/200 differently than a 200/200. In other words, a high hp tune on each injector could.make 100hp difference. A guy may only want about 500 hp, not 6.

Powerstroke Cowboy · Nov 1, 2013

TyCorr said:
Ok. I have a 38r that could be opened up to 68mm and a larger 1.15 exh housing.

Im going to be running this sucker on the street so Im not.certain the 200% nozzle will be ideal. Mattr says I should grab a 238/80 and enjoy. Im just hellbent on a 200/238/250 w/200% nozzle.

If I was to do it again this is what I would do. AND in the process of doing it.

That is IF I was going for a setup that was used for street DD, more towing then anything else. And if i never had plans to go over the 650 mark on fuel.

I would get a cheap used engine. Do a fresh rebuild with a set of billet rods and Girdle. (main reason is for peace of mind and the ability to do compounds for a great towing street setup) That is all I would do to the lower end.

For the heads I would do a light port and polish them. I would use the Hypermax valve springs then hold this to the block buy ARPs or H11 studs.

I would do the Gearhead stage one cam. This came would be a sweet cam with the Ported heads and 250/80 injectors and 38R for a DD and towing rig.

For Injectors I would do (if almost all towing and a good idle all the time was a must) 250/80 Hybrid Injectors. But If I was looking for 600+ to the wheels BUT still wanted to tow with it and DD it I would do a set of 250/200 or 300/200 B-Code Injectors.

For the HPOP that would depend on the Injector you go with. for the 250/80 I would do the Adrenalin, Honey Badger jr, Or one of terminators lightly modded singles. For the 250/200 300/200 B-Codes I would do Terminator twins or Stealth stage2. This would depend on your price range and preferences.

Turbos would depend on what you are looking to do. Your setup a 38R like you have planned would SHINE on the street or towing with 250/80 injectors.
And if you modded it like planned you would have a pretty clean setup.

Compounds would be preference to. There is a lot that come into play there.

Tuning buy your tuner of choice.

Do not get me wrong I like the 300/200 hybrids I have now. Loads of power. But they do not burn as clean as I would like. That might also be able to get better buy more tuning.

To put it simple a all the time DD that tows some and is in town a lot I would 250/80 injectors just for the there cleanness.

For a fun towing rig and DD that can make some good times at the track I would do the 250/200 or 300/200 B-codes..

Just my opinion.

I know you have your ideas of what you want. And have a good understanding on how all this plays together. Just thought I would toss this out here. More food for thought then anything.

vanderchevy18 · Nov 1, 2013

Eff that. I'd save the money on the rods and buy a couple good take out motors and run the piss out of em till they blow. Theyre cheap here. Buy them all the time for $500.

Powerstroke Cowboy · Nov 1, 2013

vanderchevy18 said:
Eff that. I'd save the money on the rods and buy a couple good take out motors and run the piss out of em till they blow. Theyre cheap here. Buy them all the time for $500.

That my friend is a chance some of us just cant take.. I would hate to be 500+ miles from home with a load of 20 or 25 cows in a trailer behind me OR even just 1 cow or bull.. OR be that far or farther from home with anywhere from 15 to 30k behind me.

Besides when you count the down time in there rods and a girdle are cheap insurance.

Besides there is always the ability that I will drive 1900 miles from home one way. No my friend some chances are not worth taking.

Do it once do it right is what I like....

Chris If you use it as a close to home racer i can maybe see doing that. But for a long haul rig there in no point in doing that!!

bruce · Nov 1, 2013

theres no point in makin over 400 horse if you're a long hauler

Powerstroke Cowboy · Nov 1, 2013

bruce said:
theres no point in makin over 400 horse if you're a long hauler

I agree. BUT if you toss compounds in there and get all that low end power they are known for. you will have trouble. Might not be right away. But it will happen. Or pull 6 to 10 mile 6 to 7% grades with that kind of weight you will have the peace of mind knowing the engine is sound...

I know its not for all. But it is far me. When you could be hauling 60
thousand dollars worth of animals behind you. Why go cheap?? To me it is still cheaper then buying a newer pickup and deleting it..

DocBar · Nov 2, 2013

bruce said:
there's no point in making over 400 horse if you're a long hauler

Isn't that the point of having a mulit-position chip? You have versatility with your truck. I have pulled 113,000+ as far as 2900 miles one way with way more than 400 rwhp available. Just not in the tune I was in. I can drop my trailer, go to the track and run low 13's in the same truck.

If you size your turbo properly and get good tuning, there's no reason you can't have a reliable hauler and a fun 500+ toy. With supporting mods, of course.