brian89
Member
It's KM/H
Ohhhh... I'm man enough to say that's my bad
It's KM/H
I run a 60lb sensor because even though the truck makes more power higher, by 60lbs I can call for the full line and it will be good enough for the remaining boost rise beyond without banging hard at 60. If I went to a 100lb sensor I would lose good resolution at low boost and the truck would be ill-shifting around town unable to discern between say 5 and 10lbs of boost very well.
I thought about running a 75 and may still.
Looks like you did well on the buttons, but from a human factors engineering standpoint I can't help but point out that at full power those buttons will be going from 9'oclock to 3'oclock, back to 7'oclock, so on and so forth while you're skiing around at 50+mph. Good luck chasing them around that wheel to make an upshift, lol.
The old, spin, spin, spin, spin while rolling the wheel back and forth, chopping the throttle and stabbing third gear isn't going to happen IMO. If I kept my hand over those buttons I'd be putting the nose of the truck through the ditch shortly thereafter because if my left hand is at 9'oclock, I can only cut the wheel about 45 degrees left before my elbow gets caught on my side. So the first time the ass swings back left I'm going into the right ditch, lol.
Which explains the only reason I've never put shift controls on the steering area. Cars that do that also have a steering ratio that allows lock to lock to happen in like 2 revs or less. Often times much less. Our trucks are like 3 turns lock to lock. You have to move your steering hand through a huge range of motion to control the truck.
For hauling ass I would have a second set of controls that my right hand could actuate separate from the wheel that's spinning violently left and right chasing the ass of the truck.
Hmm. I got the 0-100psi. My issue with using boost to adjust line is gonna be my 75 doesn't make boost untill 2000 rpm so most of my daily driving the truck doesn't see much boost. Oh well I'll plink with it.
I like the buttons on the wheel ao I don't have to fumble around under wot. My second choice was a window switch on the door. But I didn't like that too much.
Yes speedo is km/h lol
If it doesn't make enough boost to register then it probably doesn't make enough power to need more line either...
The 100psi sensor is going to give you even less resolution in that area though. A 60psi sensor is perfect for a single charger truck. I use a 60psi sensor on a truck that creeps near tripple digits, so you would probably be better to just get a 60lb sensor before you even start.
But that's just me. I wouldn't even consider a 100psi sensor on a truck that would probably run 50 to 65lbs at full song.
A 100psi sensor that was working flawlessly would only show ~.2 volts increase (0.7v or so output) when you were making 5lbs at light throttle about to make a shift. A 60lb sensor on the other hand would be reading almost .4 volts rise by then (0.9v output). Much better room for you to dial in the shifting down low, light to light.
Where would a person find such a 60psi sensor?
I was unaware that PCS didn't sell them until a moment ago. Used to, they only sold the 60, lol.
i thought Matt at gearhead sold a bigger map sensor?? im sure i read that some where...
i thought Matt at gearhead sold a bigger map sensor?? im sure i read that some where...
Gearhead said:George4 said:Hey Matt, I found a thread from 09 on PSN saying they you were working an a new MAP sensor that will have the capacity for boost in excess of 35 psi. Did that ever work out? I am running into a defueling issue at 24psi and am looking for some tunes along with a way to get my boost psi up. Or is it necessary to just regulate how much air the MAP sensor is reading. The reason I would rather replace the MAP is because I have a SCT Livewire that also works as my gauges and I would like to see what my boost psi is reading without additional gauges. Here is that thread I came across.
http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41097
Thanks,
~ George
well the issue is that the sct still will see 25 psi max, it would just really be 35 instead.... i can take care of the defueling with one of my chips or you need boost fooler with your current tuning.
I asked him about it a few weeks ago. He was working on one but I don't think it panned out... Here is one of our PMs when talking about it.
What's the point exactly? If you want a higher pressure sensor cut the goofy ass plug off the chassis harness and pin out the connector for a standard sensor like being discussed in this thread. Then choose from any pressure range you desire...
If you want to go back just put the goofy ass OEM plug back on the harness again.
Thanks. I hear ya. The calibration b is an awesome feature. May I suggest adding in a pressure sensors to read boost, tuning line and tc lockup rate off MAP is far superior to TPS. I'm just fine tuning mine now. But it shifts more consistently. A lot better for fine tuning the line pressure DC.