Changing cam with heads on

PsdPullerJr · May 31, 2014

Is it possible to change a cam while leaving the heads on? Looking to do a cam swap and have the engine tore most of the way down but was going to leave heads on if possible. Looking for a cam that doesn't need the pistons machined and works best at 2500-3500 rpm if anyone has a suggestion!! Thanks

Magnum PD · May 31, 2014

Maybe if you can hold all the lifters up somehow.

PsdPullerJr · Jun 1, 2014

I'm wondering if it's upside down tho so actually gravity is holding them up lol

IdahoF350 · Jun 1, 2014

We used to do that on 5.0Ls on the stand, roll them over, the lifter guides keep them in the bores, slide the old cam out, slide the new cam in.

There was also a kit available from Anderson Ford Motorsport that used strong magnets on rods with clips to hold the lifters up where the pushrods went. Worked good, may still be available.

dentexpowerstroke · Jun 1, 2014

Just yank the heads, it's not that bad. Also if you go back with studs I don't see the risk of blowing a hgs being very big. After 50 miles my truck saw 75psi of boost, put down a 700hp pass and then an 800hp pass without any signs of hg issues since.

rusty1161 · Jun 1, 2014

The pic is a Cummins, but I wonder if the same method can be used on a 7.3 PSD?

Rusty

golfer · Jun 2, 2014

PsdPullerJr said:
I'm wondering if it's upside down tho so actually gravity is holding them up lol

absolutely.

pull pushrods, rockers, oil pan, front cover....flip engine upside down on stand...unbolt cam, slide out cam...lather rinse & repeat.

PsdPullerJr · Jun 3, 2014

Awesome thanks! I was in the process of installing a set of your valve springs and I was like wait a minute...do you follow the same sequence with arp studs as the h11 when installing them without taking the heads off?

golfer · Jun 3, 2014

don't know...we've never installed ARP's for head studs.

Arisley · Jun 4, 2014

There are instructions for that. I simply removed one bolt, replaced with stud. Torqued to spec in three increments. Repeat a whole bunch of times. When a head was done, I went back over with the torque wrench one more time.

I did all of this starting from the inside and wrapping around to the outside.

After a few heat cycles, I hit every stud I could get to with the torque wrench one more time. Nothing moved, called it good.

Hope it holds up. It's only been about 100,000 miles since I did it.

PsdPullerJr · Jun 4, 2014

Mines only has 110k on it. It's been seeing 40 to 50 lbs on the pulling track for about 5 years now with just the head bolts. Oil pan is getting bad so I decided to pull the motor and put swamps valve springs and push rods in and stud it. I'm on the fence about head gaskets but I'm afraid to put new ones in and blow one out off the bat. I found install instructions for h11 studs but not arp. I think I'm gonna follow them for the h11s but to arp torque specs. Hoping to be back together and down the track next weekend. Thanks for the info!!!

co04cobra · Jun 4, 2014

PsdPullerJr said:
Mines only has 110k on it. It's been seeing 40 to 50 lbs on the pulling track for about 5 years now with just the head bolts. Oil pan is getting bad so I decided to pull the motor and put swamps valve springs and push rods in and stud it. I'm on the fence about head gaskets but I'm afraid to put new ones in and blow one out off the bat. I found install instructions for h11 studs but not arp. I think I'm gonna follow them for the h11s but to arp torque specs. Hoping to be back together and down the track next weekend. Thanks for the info!!!

If you have don't have any signs of blown HG stud it one at a time and call it good.

You'll break something else before you blow them after studs.

Here's the sequence I always use from DI website:

http://dieselinnovations.com/techfiles/ford_73_headstud_installation.pdf

Whitezotti · Jun 4, 2014

You can't remove the cam with the heads on you gotta strip it and the transmission. You gotta take the back plate off which is on the back of the engine. Even the rocker arms you have to take off the head to pull them but on a 6.4 they made it where you don't have to. They put a pedastol.

Whitezotti · Jun 4, 2014

I was gunna do my cam. And put a star one but I've heard it's not worth it unless you pushing high hp or it's a towing truck. I heard the help is not to noticeable. I would do it if it would help but I'm probably going to do it in the future.

JD3020 · Jun 4, 2014

I'm interested to see what cam you go with as i think we're wanting about the same things. Just on the fence as to if its worth it with stock heads and manifolds.

co04cobra · Jun 4, 2014

You guys need to check out dynoproven on the cams.

He has been giving me some info on what he has been doing, and If I had my motor back out it would be getting one.

He does have them available for stock pistons too.

PsdPullerJr · Jun 4, 2014

It's on a stand right now, I just did the valve springs so push rods and rockers are already out. Flex plate and spacer plate if you will is already off. All that's left is the front cover. I ended up with a colt cams stage 2 from dyno proven, got delivered today. They claimed it's pretty aggressive but not enough that the pistons need cut. They said only a cam change gained 50 horse. We shall see, hoping to get it back together and down the track next weekend.

JD3020 · Jun 4, 2014

So only change will be studs/springs and the cam?

PsdPullerJr · Jun 4, 2014

Going from 400/400 b codes to 400/200, stealth twins to honey badger, h2e to van turbo with 1.15 and a wicked wheel. This truck will be a "work stock" truck, must have oem appearing turbo no larger than 2.5". I have another truck I want to start playing with for 2.6.

G Racing · Jun 5, 2014

golfer said:
absolutely.

pull pushrods, rockers, oil pan, front cover....flip engine upside down on stand...unbolt cam, slide out cam...lather rinse & repeat.

^^^^^^^ WHS