Clutch Pedal Issue.

[DanicaPatricide]

Okay, sooo I was driving one of the farm trucks the other day and I noticed the clutch pedal was getting sloppy, then when I'd let off the clutch, the pedal came up to the dashboard, which makes driving it not easy. So I pulled up to the house and I put the clutch in and it went straight to the floor with a huge clatter. I got under there and looked around. Found the pushrod that goes through the firewall had fallen off the pin and came out of the firewall. My question is as follows, is there a better way to fix this issue than just using the factory plastic crap? I want to build something that is far more durable. Truck is a late 99 Crew cab. Thanks in advance!

 

[Lassie]

There is a fix for that selling on ebay that works well. you will have to cut the rod going to master and the new fitting set screws to the rod. I don't remember the name of it, just search "Ford clutch pedal fix" or something along those lines.

 

[ford_trck]

I have the "Clutch fix" and it is ok. I had to use locktite on the set screw because it would fall off. The other issue I have right now is that since the face is larger it breaks the clutch switch.

 

[Lassie]

I have the "Clutch fix" and it is ok. I had to use locktite on the set screw because it would fall off. The other issue I have right now is that since the face is larger it breaks the clutch switch.

I think there's a fix for that too...

 

[superduty4x4]

Don't spend the $50 or whatever the Ebay seller is asking, you can buy the same heim joint from McMaster-Carr for around $5. Then you just need to drill out the threads and drill/tap the set screw.
FYI, everyone makes the heim joint fix out to be easy and straight forward but it can be a pain in the ass.

 

[ford_trck]

Don't spend the $50 or whatever the Ebay seller is asking, you can buy the same heim joint from McMaster-Carr for around $5. Then you just need to drill out the threads and drill/tap the set screw.
FYI, everyone makes the heim joint fix out to be easy and straight forward but it can be a pain in the ass.

This right here is true. I have been working on the clutch switch issues now.

 

[superduty4x4]

This right here is true. I have been working on the clutch switch issues now.

When I did mine it wouldn't crank initially and I thought the switch went wonky from me screwing around with it. Turned out I wasn't getting quite enough throw to activate the switch so it would crank or fully disengage the clutch. I took it all back apart and re-clocked the swing arm on the splines by one tooth, then the clutch master cylinder rod was too long so I had to yard that back out, shorten it a pubic hair and reinstall everything again. In hindsight, I think I would have rather just used a bolt to hold the master cylinder rod to the swing arm and saved a bunch of hassle (and expense).

 

[Lassie]

When I did mine it wouldn't crank initially and I thought the switch went wonky from me screwing around with it. Turned out I wasn't getting quite enough throw to activate the switch so it would crank or fully disengage the clutch. I took it all back apart and re-clocked the swing arm on the splines by one tooth, then the clutch master cylinder rod was too long so I had to yard that back out, shorten it a pubic hair and reinstall everything again. In hindsight, I think I would have rather just used a bolt to hold the master cylinder rod to the swing arm and saved a bunch of hassle (and expense).

Whatever hard fitting you use, you will obviously have to measure the length. All play is gone once the original plastic piece is discarded (which is the whole point here).

The window is small between not fully disengaging clutch or riding the throwout bearing. If you want a piece that can be adjusted, use a tie rod.

 

[DanicaPatricide]

thanks fellas, I'm gonna get on this tonight or tomorrow! :thumbsup:

 

[superduty4x4]

Whatever hard fitting you use, you will obviously have to measure the length. All play is gone once the original plastic piece is discarded (which is the whole point here).

The window is small between not fully disengaging clutch or riding the throwout bearing. If you want a piece that can be adjusted, use a tie rod.

I thought about doing that but didn't want to have to fight with clearance issues with the safety switch. So far so good on mine after figuring out what the problem was and correcting it. Now I just need to get rid of the belt squeal sound I have in the clutch.

 

[sniper_101]

I picked up a few small assorted heims/rod ends I'm going to do something with one of these days and make an adjustable setup.

My plastic bastard bushing is about shot and the clicking the clutch makes once in a while drives me nuts.

 

[superduty4x4]

Mine is clicking too, pisses me off! I think it's in the pivot bushings but I haven't had enough of a give a damn lately to track it down.

 

[TrailerHauler]

Everything to do with the hydraulics on these things is junk. I never could find a good master/slave cylinder for mine.

 

[ford_trck]

I was hoping that someone would make a billet one with a bleeder like I have seen on OBS trucks but no one has.

 

[sniper_101]

Anyone had the actual pin break off the clutch arm before?

Anyway, decided to try a dirt cheap fix to erase the clutch pedal slop. If it works, sweet. If I find a flaw, ohh well, only cost about $1 in material and 30 min.

Drilled out the existing pin, cut a 2.5"x0.5" bolt down to the right length, drilled a hole for a cotter pin or clip. The rod on the master is a 0.5" hole, so it fits perfectly on the shoulder of the 0.5" dia bolt with zero slop. As long as it doesn't wear and egg out the hole on the rod...

 

[ford_trck]

I ended up putting a HEIM joint on mine only problem then was I was breaking the clutch switch. So I did a switch delete and I haven't had any problems since.