Blowby
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Never had any starting issues with my Gen3. You did have the programming adjusted didn't you?
Compounds finally done... Now the real battle
- Thread starter silverpsd_06
- Start date
silverpsd_06
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Now it straightened itself out maybe it was just a bug since it sat so long but so far it is back to starting normally like before.
Blowby I did not have the tuning adjusted, I didn't know that was really all that necessary when just changing how much boost your putting into the mix. I could definately be wrong though.
On another note I started trying to get everything dialed in, having a billion blown boots a different one on every run i make but so far looks promising for spooling the atmosphere takes about 30 lbs to get it running but it does not take long at all. When it did work right is snapped right up to thirty hung there for half a second or less then the atmo took off and it was hang the phuck on til the boot blew :doh:
Now after that I cannot build more than 7 Lbs of boost and it sounds like more air is going out of the motor than in and i can't find the damn leak to save my ass gave up for the night.. Any thoughts on this? possibility of the gate being trashed so soon and just hanging open??
Blowby I did not have the tuning adjusted, I didn't know that was really all that necessary when just changing how much boost your putting into the mix. I could definately be wrong though.
On another note I started trying to get everything dialed in, having a billion blown boots a different one on every run i make but so far looks promising for spooling the atmosphere takes about 30 lbs to get it running but it does not take long at all. When it did work right is snapped right up to thirty hung there for half a second or less then the atmo took off and it was hang the phuck on til the boot blew :doh:
Now after that I cannot build more than 7 Lbs of boost and it sounds like more air is going out of the motor than in and i can't find the damn leak to save my ass gave up for the night.. Any thoughts on this? possibility of the gate being trashed so soon and just hanging open??
silverpsd_06
New member
silverpsd_06
New member
There are your pics ask for anything else you would like a picture of..
Dieselboy.
New member
Nice job, you ran yours different then every other kit I have seen.
How or where are you routing your exhaust ?
How or where are you routing your exhaust ?
Dmstrucks02
New member
Looks good :whs:
silverpsd_06
New member
Routing the exhaust in between the frame and bottom passenger side of the cab if you cut that tab out there is just enough room to fit a piece of flex 5" through there and hit the stock exhaust location. It swings out around the shock tower then back through underneath the cab. I can get a pic if you would like.
silverpsd_06
New member
There is only one gate on the high pressure right now i figured it was gonna be easy enough to add a second gate to the primary if need be.. You can just barely see it in the third picture on the first post and how it connects to the intermediate pipe. As far as how it is attached i milled the housing out to fit around a 1.5 inch piece of stainless steel then welded it to the housing itself.
Cat_rebel
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Well of course we'd like to see a pic. :thumbup:
silverpsd_06
New member
Will get one for you tom during the daytime its not stainless flex unfortunately
Cat_rebel
New member
Will get one for you tom during the daytime its not stainless flex unfortunately
Always change that later, I'd just like to see how you snuck it back around to the stock location.
Charles
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The gen3 sees more problems than everything else because it moves so much more oil. It sucks the res dry quicker.... it overruns the IPR quicker, if you have any electrical issues, it's going to vary in pressure farther, so on and so forth.
That is why people see the res go dry more often with gen3 setups. The res may alllllllmost be doing it with say a dual 17* setup, and if so, a gen3 on the same truck would fire..... slow down and die. It's no more complicated than that.
As for running spill oil to the charger directly. Hell no....
The oil quality is THE worst that you could possibly give the charger on one of these engines, period. Secondly, the outflow volume would be varying dramatically. Hell, at a high rpm liftoff you would probably EXPLODE the hose running to the charger when the volume VASTLY exceeded what the cartridge could flow and the pressure went off the charts, headed toward ICP pressure. If the line didn't blow, I would bet you would see blown turbo seals in relatively short order after a few hard pulls and lifting at high rpm. Lastly.... at full throttle, if the IPR duty cycle is relatively high, you may starve the cartridge as the spill oil volume would be very little.
Don't ever do it. Big negative IMO.
That is why people see the res go dry more often with gen3 setups. The res may alllllllmost be doing it with say a dual 17* setup, and if so, a gen3 on the same truck would fire..... slow down and die. It's no more complicated than that.
As for running spill oil to the charger directly. Hell no....
The oil quality is THE worst that you could possibly give the charger on one of these engines, period. Secondly, the outflow volume would be varying dramatically. Hell, at a high rpm liftoff you would probably EXPLODE the hose running to the charger when the volume VASTLY exceeded what the cartridge could flow and the pressure went off the charts, headed toward ICP pressure. If the line didn't blow, I would bet you would see blown turbo seals in relatively short order after a few hard pulls and lifting at high rpm. Lastly.... at full throttle, if the IPR duty cycle is relatively high, you may starve the cartridge as the spill oil volume would be very little.
Don't ever do it. Big negative IMO.
silverpsd_06
New member
silverpsd_06
New member
First one you can tell comes really close to the shock mount has very little space in between it and the shock tower. There is a tab that should hold the splash guard in that i removed to make the pipe fit in there. It is resting on the frame on pretty hard figured it wouldn't be that much of a problem since it does not rattle and by the time it does wear a hole in it it will probably be rusted to hell anyways...
Second one pretty much shows the nasty oil leak i have from milling my own flanges out for the feed, will be fixing it tomorrow just missed a touch of the weld with the torch.
Third just more of the same kinda showing how it was finagled in there..
Fourth is the underside it missed the tranny lines by a good distance but had to sacrifice some of the heat shield to get it there does not seem to rattle at all suprisingly but still needs some finalizing.
Had to relocate the batteries and windshield washer fluid so the two lines you see are the feed to the starter and exciter wire, then the others are in the heater hose the fluid feed, washer motor electrical, and the two wires that go to the starter relay at the front. I also need to cut all the damn zip ties. The grounds were re-routed to their respective sides and connected from the batteries to the frame then from the motor to the frame.
Everything really need just finishing up, but from the driving i have done with it its incredible how much of a difference just normal driving is seeming to be less of a strain on the motor almost no haze or smoke while running down the road only smokes til the small charger lights on the moderate tunes which is right around 1500-1600 when it starts to come on. More aggressive tunes it comes on much quicker along with the atmosphere just can't seem to push it too hard or it blows boots like mad.
Im impressed to say the least with just how it drives better and cleaner. So far drive pressures sit pretty consistently 2-3 lbs over what the boost is which seems to be acceptable. Cruising temps are sitting right around 700 with a 6" lift and 37" tires on a crew cab, much better than the 900-1100 before. Anything else you guys would like to know id be more than happy to take pics or whatever..
Second one pretty much shows the nasty oil leak i have from milling my own flanges out for the feed, will be fixing it tomorrow just missed a touch of the weld with the torch.
Third just more of the same kinda showing how it was finagled in there..
Fourth is the underside it missed the tranny lines by a good distance but had to sacrifice some of the heat shield to get it there does not seem to rattle at all suprisingly but still needs some finalizing.
Had to relocate the batteries and windshield washer fluid so the two lines you see are the feed to the starter and exciter wire, then the others are in the heater hose the fluid feed, washer motor electrical, and the two wires that go to the starter relay at the front. I also need to cut all the damn zip ties. The grounds were re-routed to their respective sides and connected from the batteries to the frame then from the motor to the frame.
Everything really need just finishing up, but from the driving i have done with it its incredible how much of a difference just normal driving is seeming to be less of a strain on the motor almost no haze or smoke while running down the road only smokes til the small charger lights on the moderate tunes which is right around 1500-1600 when it starts to come on. More aggressive tunes it comes on much quicker along with the atmosphere just can't seem to push it too hard or it blows boots like mad.
Im impressed to say the least with just how it drives better and cleaner. So far drive pressures sit pretty consistently 2-3 lbs over what the boost is which seems to be acceptable. Cruising temps are sitting right around 700 with a 6" lift and 37" tires on a crew cab, much better than the 900-1100 before. Anything else you guys would like to know id be more than happy to take pics or whatever..
silverpsd_06
New member
Well finally got all the major kinks worked out of this set up... I am super impressed with how it runs comes on quick makes 3lbs of boost cruising around the back roads at 45-60 mph in a moderate tune. Put in swamps hot street tune and completely disrespects the 500horse rated southbend from third gear on... Now the only kicker is the one boot I bought from the local o Reilly's obviously is not rated for 65psi judging by the chit stain making of a scare I got when it sounded like a twelve gauge went off under my hood. :redspotdance: I will never go back to a single. Anyone thinking about compounds go for it and don't look back huge world of difference. High pressure makes right around 15psi and the atmosphere varies anywhere from 5-20 depending on tune. Begins to light in third gear and I can stay on top of it through 6th. Videos to follow within a few days of the setup and a run through the gears:naughty::naughty:
silverpsd_06
New member
I'm thinking I can get away with a legitimate boot something that is a little thicker than 3/16ths of an inch. It damn near blew the thing in half parts guy was shocked but warrantied it out of pure interest to watch me do it again lol v band is not really an option cause of the way it sits. If I was thinking at the time I would have v banded the compressor housing on the high pressure turbo and made life simple. I will never own another turbo that isn't v band clamped together makes things so much easier to work on...word to the wise
PowerstrokeJunkie
Active member
Hey in that third pic, you did put a nut on that head stud? LOL
