Coolant filter myth?

[DEEZUZ]

I've had 6.0s where you couldn't see the media folds on the cartridge...

Maybe mine would have caught more had I gotten the full flow filter and not wasted my money on a bypass unit LOL :jerkit:

 

[Zeb]

A full flow wouldn’t have caught more, it just would have done it in less time. When a system is that dirty I reckon time isn’t a big concern.
I still like the cleanable, reusable stainless steel element in an IPR filter. ��

 

[DEEZUZ]

I should've used sarcasm quotations LOL

 

[Zeb]

That was to be a smiley face at the end of my post, and I meant no sarcasm.

 

[Mhatlen]

Zen I’m with you in regards to the IPR coolant filter being a better option. I’ve had them both and my bypass only captured extremely fine material. I pulled off the Sinister bypass and installed the IPR along with the manifold that comes off the oil cooler.
I was filling up the IPR filter in a weeks time and it was all different sized debris. Yet my bypass only would have fine materials.

I see it is due to their design using 3/8” supply hoses and they are both connected to the highest part of cooling system. So the heavy stuff must be falling away before it’s drawn into the slow bypass line. Then you have the 3/32” reduced office that’s put into all the inlets of the filters. Now if your engines coolant is a orange goo then that’s another story. But that bypass won’t save you at that point.
The manifold is moving a large volume of coolant and larger debris is going with the flow in it like it or not.

The IPR manifold also makes backflushing the oil cooler a snap because you just flow hose right into the oil coolers out line hose.
Flushing these trucks correctly takes time and lots of high flow 3/4” garden hoses connected to full port valves from house barn wherever. The govt mandated valves the home came with are water saving 5/16 orficed hose valves isn’t moving enough GPM for flushing really.

Yea the thermostat HAS to go as well as BOTH block plugs MUST be wide open holes to flow free enough to let a high volume of water exiting the lowest points so it can blow out the debris. Pulled out coolant tank and separated hoses. I pulled top and bottom radiator hoses off and with one 3/4” garden I wrapped it with a towel and JAM it up the lower hose and turn hose on full force.
Then started up the truck. And place two 5 gallon buckets under the engine one under each block outlets water goes into each bucket.

Take 3/4” garden hose #2 and using this one in all the upper hoses including backflushing the oil cooler randomly. Revving up the engine every few minutes will wind up the GPM of waterpump and the block plug holes will scream water out of them when revved. The higher flow will little by little clear out all the debris that has accumulated in the block over time. It’s the lowest part of cooling system and flows of coolant during use isn’t enough to lift most of the crap that’s built up over time.
I figure on heavy throttle inputs a chunk or two or more hitch a ride up the block and through our oil coolers. Over time plugging them up.

Keep the truck idling entire time and hoses running in lower hose entire time along with other hose for all of what’s up top. The way we knew when it was clean was by looking in the 5 gal buckets for any sign of debris or sand casting grains etc.

I have flushed four of these 6.0 trucks now and it’s never been less then 2 hours time when engines were sterile of any foreign matter. My current truck was over 3-1/2 hours before i couldn’t get anything more out of it. So yes it takes a lot of water, my well pump is in the 42 GPM range and two full flow 3/4 lines do that easy. Just say 30-40 gallons a minute over hours is a fair amount needed to get them clean.

Then of coarse things get put back together and filled with distilled water and run few minutes and dumped. Block as well and repeated 3 times to get all the potable water that has natural minerals including calcium and iron.

After that has been done toss in your brand new Motorcraft thermostat and pour in distilled and straight Cat ELC type coolant.

That took a few minutes to spit out. Oh yea my IPR filter is nothing more then show now for 4 years since flush. Have had nothing but a extremely small amount of casting material in the filter. Not pulling though just in case.
Good Day Gentlemen.

Mark.............

 

[OuchThatHurt]

Nice write up Mark. Thanks!. What coolant did you use after you replaced?

Zen I’m with you in regards to the IPR coolant filter being a better option. I’ve had them both and my bypass only captured extremely fine material. I pulled off the Sinister bypass and installed the IPR along with the manifold that comes off the oil cooler.
I was filling up the IPR filter in a weeks time and it was all different sized debris. Yet my bypass only would have fine materials.

I see it is due to their design using 3/8” supply hoses and they are both connected to the highest part of cooling system. So the heavy stuff must be falling away before it’s drawn into the slow bypass line. Then you have the 3/32” reduced office that’s put into all the inlets of the filters. Now if your engines coolant is a orange goo then that’s another story. But that bypass won’t save you at that point.
The manifold is moving a large volume of coolant and larger debris is going with the flow in it like it or not.

The IPR manifold also makes backflushing the oil cooler a snap because you just flow hose right into the oil coolers out line hose.
Flushing these trucks correctly takes time and lots of high flow 3/4” garden hoses connected to full port valves from house barn wherever. The govt mandated valves the home came with are water saving 5/16 orficed hose valves isn’t moving enough GPM for flushing really.

Yea the thermostat HAS to go as well as BOTH block plugs MUST be wide open holes to flow free enough to let a high volume of water exiting the lowest points so it can blow out the debris. Pulled out coolant tank and separated hoses. I pulled top and bottom radiator hoses off and with one 3/4” garden I wrapped it with a towel and JAM it up the lower hose and turn hose on full force.
Then started up the truck. And place two 5 gallon buckets under the engine one under each block outlets water goes into each bucket.

Take 3/4” garden hose #2 and using this one in all the upper hoses including backflushing the oil cooler randomly. Revving up the engine every few minutes will wind up the GPM of waterpump and the block plug holes will scream water out of them when revved. The higher flow will little by little clear out all the debris that has accumulated in the block over time. It’s the lowest part of cooling system and flows of coolant during use isn’t enough to lift most of the crap that’s built up over time.
I figure on heavy throttle inputs a chunk or two or more hitch a ride up the block and through our oil coolers. Over time plugging them up.

Keep the truck idling entire time and hoses running in lower hose entire time along with other hose for all of what’s up top. The way we knew when it was clean was by looking in the 5 gal buckets for any sign of debris or sand casting grains etc.

I have flushed four of these 6.0 trucks now and it’s never been less then 2 hours time when engines were sterile of any foreign matter. My current truck was over 3-1/2 hours before i couldn’t get anything more out of it. So yes it takes a lot of water, my well pump is in the 42 GPM range and two full flow 3/4 lines do that easy. Just say 30-40 gallons a minute over hours is a fair amount needed to get them clean.

Then of coarse things get put back together and filled with distilled water and run few minutes and dumped. Block as well and repeated 3 times to get all the potable water that has natural minerals including calcium and iron.

After that has been done toss in your brand new Motorcraft thermostat and pour in distilled and straight Cat ELC type coolant.

That took a few minutes to spit out. Oh yea my IPR filter is nothing more then show now for 4 years since flush. Have had nothing but a extremely small amount of casting material in the filter. Not pulling though just in case.
Good Day Gentlemen.

Mark.............

 

[Mhatlen]

CAT EC-1 Concentrate, all the CAT tractor stores have it. Concentrate is only one with red cap.

 

[DEEZUZ]

Aaaaaand whose the one that makes that?

 

[blacksmoke.r.us]

Mark, that's the kind of support that is needed on this forum.

Thanks for your time and effort you put into that awesome post.

 

[Mhatlen]

Aaaaaand whose the one that makes that?

Ummmmm Cat has their name on their coolant. But if they are using a producer I’m unaware. The CAT EC-1 is what these engines need. Ford really out did themselves when the pulled that Gold crap out of their magic hat and proceeded to dumped it into everything with a crankshaft.

May be too big to fail but never too big to not be stupid. Softheads.