cps 10mm bracket bolt

Turbosuzuki · Mar 21, 2019

OK guys changed out my cps finally but the 10mm bolt felt loose when taking out. Sure enough it had metal all in it like it was stripped. I put the new one in but now the bolt won't tighten.
Guess it will have to go in shop the truck starts fine but if I hit a bump this new cps might move and stall the truck. I'm pissed always something I swear. Does anyone know if this can be fixed? It's not the bolt but the hole in the engine that's messed up.

sootie · Mar 21, 2019

can you drill it and heli coil it? its not like the bolt needs to hold much torque

Turbosuzuki · Mar 21, 2019

sootie said:
can you drill it and heli coil it? its not like the bolt needs to hold much torque

No sir physically I can't but I'm hoping a mechanic can do something to fix it. It's a tuff location to get into for a big guy like myself but hopefully something can be done. The bracket I can wiggle so it's not in tight at all. I don't want to drive and have the sensor come loose and the truck stall on me.

Magnum PD · Mar 21, 2019

Thread cutting bolt?

Turbosuzuki · Mar 21, 2019

Magnum PD said:
Thread cutting bolt?

Not even sure what that is. It has to be a fix that I can maybe take bolt back out in future if this cps fails

fastersteve · Mar 22, 2019

sootie said:
can you drill it and heli coil it? its not like the bolt needs to hold much torque

Mine did that also. I was able to Helicoil it by taking the fan clutch and water pump pulley off. You will need a right angle drill.
Luckily I have one of those.

Turbosuzuki · Mar 22, 2019

I don't have one of those. Looks like it's going in the shop. Thanks to everyone that replied I will let you guys know what this cost when I get it fixed.

Turbosuzuki · Mar 22, 2019

OK spoke to the mechanic. He said at the very least to put in a helicoil he would have to pull the radiator and condenser to get tools in there to work. If he can't do that he said he would have to pull the engine. Then he would have to reseal everything. Does this sound right? I will sell the Damm truck before all that crap

sootie · Mar 22, 2019

find an actual mechanic

Zeb · Mar 22, 2019

Turbosuzuki said:
OK spoke to the mechanic. He said at the very least to put in a helicoil he would have to pull the radiator and condenser to get tools in there to work. If he can't do that he said he would have to pull the engine. Then he would have to reseal everything. Does this sound right? I will sell the Damm truck before all that

That is ridiculous.

Turbosuzuki · Mar 22, 2019

sootie said:
find an actual mechanic

He worked on my last 7.3 and I had no complaints. Just seems a little much to fix a bolt hole.
I can see pulling the fan and shroud maybe even the intercooler but not the condenser also. Now I'm no mechanic so I figure I would ask you guys. I will try another place and see.

Bugman · Mar 22, 2019

The problem with fixing it is that you need the correct tools to get into it to drill it out and repair the threads. Very few mechanics have a right angle drill in their tool box.

You could possibly go up one size of bolt and retap the hole for the new threads but that could be a problem also.

Turbosuzuki · Mar 22, 2019

Bugman said:
The problem with fixing it is that you need the correct tools to get into it to drill it out and repair the threads. Very few mechanics have a right angle drill in their tool box.

You could possibly go up one size of bolt and retap the hole for the new threads but that could be a problem also.

Why may that be a problem ? What all has to be done to replace the cover? The mechanic said pulling the engine has to happen to replace it because of the oil pan

Bugman · Mar 22, 2019

If the front cover needs to be removed you need to pull the engine to reseal it properly.

You may be able to do it with the engine in the truck but you are risking it leaking.

JCart · Mar 22, 2019

Yes definitely a pain in the arse..... Did one on my OBS once and the time is in actual pulling all the gear outta the way to access the 10 mm location. I pulled bumper and everything to front of engine off. The drilling and Helicoil takes no time really it’s just the access. SD you might have more room, but with mine as I had retrofitted a IC on.... well it is a pain for sure. Better than pulling the engine though.

The tolerance for proper fit is pretty fine (CPS), I opted not to mess with it and pulled all the front off, not that bad really or hard, just time consuming.
j

fastersteve · Mar 23, 2019

Sigh...you can get a right angle drill for $35 for a cheapie, $95 for an Ingersoll air drill from Amazon.
If you have ANY mechanical ability, buy a drill and put a helicoil in it.
Pulling the radiator out would probably give enough room for a regular drill. The cover is aluminum and not difficult to drill.

Turbosuzuki · Mar 23, 2019

Thanks you guys have been a big help. I pulled and changed the radiator on my last 7.3 so I know I can atleast do that. I watched some youtube videos on how to install a helicoil. I planed on doing a radiator flush anyway so loosing this piss water the last owner has in it isn't a big deal. I have a new degas bottle thermastat and housing to install also so taking it apart will let me clean stuff up.

I didn't sleep last night I need my truck.

JCart · Mar 23, 2019

Turbosuzuki said:
Thanks you guys have been a big help. I pulled and changed the radiator on my last 7.3 so I know I can atleast do that. I watched some youtube videos on how to install a helicoil. I planed on doing a radiator flush anyway so loosing this piss water the last owner has in it isn't a big deal. I have a new degas bottle thermastat and housing to install also so taking it apart will let me clean stuff up.

I didn't sleep last night I need my truck.

As you’ve pulled the rad before you’ll have no problem with the rest of it. As Fastersteve mentioned a right angle drill is the call. Drill, tap, helicoil.... pretty straight forward. Once done use a little quality anti seize paste on the 10mm bolt. You’ll be up and running in no time!
cheers,
j

Turbosuzuki · Mar 23, 2019

JCart said:
As you’ve pulled the rad before you’ll have no problem with the rest of it. As Fastersteve mentioned a right angle drill is the call. Drill, tap, helicoil.... pretty straight forward. Once done use a little quality anti seize paste on the 10mm bolt. You’ll be up and running in no time!
cheers,
j

Thanks I think I may be able to do this. You guys have been great. Question how much work to remove the intercooler? Guess more room wouldn't hurt the intercooler boots look horrible with black oily dirt so I could clean that up as well.

Zeb · Mar 23, 2019

Turbosuzuki said:
Thanks I think I may be able to do this. You guys have been great. Question how much work to remove the intercooler? Guess more room wouldn't hurt the intercooler boots look horrible with black oily dirt so I could clean that up as well.

With the radiator out it’s a piece of cake.