Cracked 4R100 case at banjo bolt/return

[rammertide07]

When I screwed in the banjo bolt, I'm pretty sure it cross threaded and I know it cracked the neck where it screws in to. I've already got suggestions to replace the banjo bolt and re-thread the hole straight. Also to put JB Weld around it and a hose clamp. Thought? Suggestions?

And can the bypass line be removed permanently?

 

[dzljon]

I would not use an epoxy to repair this, cast aluminum is a challenge to weld but clean it really well with acetone and use a carbide burr to gouge down following the crack so you can get good penitration and you can goes 2 ways here you can tig weld it with 4643 filler or you can braze it, re-drill the hole and tap it and you are in business imo this is the only option unless you replace the case.

 

[dentexpowerstroke]

This is the exact reason I HATE cast aluminum. If you find a fix on your own, post it up. I know me and several other guys have cracked front covers by using the wrong hpop res gasket and it was able to be bandaided with jb weld (not the kwik), don't know if it would work in your situation.

 

[neverkickn]

Is there such thing as a helicoil that big? If so, that's what I would do to repair the threads. It looks like the bolt will thread past the crack. I might try epoxy here if it where me. I also wonder if you could just cut off the cracked portion and repair the threads in the remainder and use a jic fitting there to run the cooler circuit. You would have to delete the bypass but that could work too.

 

[Arisley]

Can you get a hose clamp around the cracked end. That might work for a temp fix.

 

[Christof13T]

Weld, drill, and retap.
I wouldnt try brazing there. The heat required for a good bond will weaken it further imo.

 

[dzljon]

Weld, drill, and retap.
I wouldnt try brazing there. The heat required for a good bond will weaken it further imo.

the heat required to melt aluminum is higher than brass, how would bazing it be worse?

 

[tensixniner]

Brazing happens at a lower temperature than welding.
There can be more heat input or more spread out because your using a torch but your still not melting the aluminum like when your welding.
That hole is going to need very good cleaning either way.
Don't use brass on aluminum either.

 

[dzljon]

Brazing happens at a lower temperature than welding.
There can be more heat input or more spread out because your using a torch but your still not melting the aluminum like when your welding.
That hole is going to need very good cleaning either way.
Don't use brass on aluminum either.

I see your point but welding with a tig torch and having you a/c balance set for higher cleaning action, cleaning with chemicals will not remove enuff of the oxides and will require higher cleaning action dialed into the machine because of the condition of the metal means you will put a conciderable amount of heat in the base metal and it will heat soak just like brazing if there is rubber seals that close that you are worried about the heat then disassemble the trans and do either process.

please explain why you would not use brass or aluminum?


edit: you will have to pre-heat the base metal (cast metals expand and contract differently than the filler metals used) so ether method you will have to use a torch to heat the base metal to about 300-350*F. if it were my truck needing the repair i would braze it just because of the characteristics of welding cast aluminum.

 

[Mark Kovalsky]

I'd use a high quality epoxy. No heat needed.

 

[dzljon]

I'd use a high quality epoxy. No heat needed.

bad advice!

 

[bad12jr]

Really your going to argue with one of the engineers of said transmission. I'd use JB. As long as it will thread in straight. Why weaken it more with heat.

Sent from my x2 chillin in the middle of no where

 

[dzljon]

Really your going to argue with one of the engineers of said transmission. I'd use JB. As long as it will thread in straight. Why weaken it more with heat.

Sent from my x2 chillin in the middle of no where

if he claims to be an engineer, I would not trust any engineer that recomends an epoxy on dirty oil soaked metal that wont get good adhesion and will not last.


It will not weaken and if welded properly, the stress can releived if you know what you are doing. you all can do half assed repairs to keep the people that do it right in business because when it leaves you stranded you are going to pay big. there is a reason the epoxy is less than $20, so shade tree people will buy it and think it is a solid fix! it is nothing more than band aid and you will dealing with it again or constantly worrying that it may rupture.

 

[rammertide07]

Sorry for taking so long to get back. I use my phone for internet connection at the house and its a PITB sometimes. Here is where my main thread i've been keeping up with the Autoguide app.

I did buy JB weld but I found out that I can't make it fully around the stem due to a brace made into the casting (pictured in one of my posts in TDS thread). I'm looking for someone with a MIG welder in my area, but thats few and far between. I clamped down with channle locks around the stem and closed the gap in but the crack did spead about another 1/2". How well does brassing work upside down?

 

[rammertide07]

I've also considered cutting the stem off where the crack ends, re-threading, and coming back out with a nipple to replace the length I cut off.

 

[Charles]

Bare in mind, a number of the suggestions seem to be ignoring the fact that it seals on the face of that bore with a crush washer. Fixing the threads and not fixing the crack will just let the fluid hemorrhage out the crack. It must seal all the way up and to the face unless a banjo bolt is not used.

Dzljon.... simmer. You're basically telling Mark how to jack his own dick here...

To the OP, lesson learned.... don't just keep on keeping on when the bolt is cross-threaded. It's always dumb, but in cast aluminum the penalty is sooner, and greater.

 

[rammertide07]

Bare in mind, a number of the suggestions seem to be ignoring the fact that it seals on the face of that bore with a crush washer. Fixing the threads and not fixing the crack will just let the fluid hemorrhage out the crack. It must seal all the way up and to the face unless a banjo bolt is not used.

Dzljon.... simmer. You're basically telling Mark how to jack his own dick here...

To the OP, lesson learned.... don't just keep on keeping on when the bolt is cross-threaded. It's always dumb, but in cast aluminum the penalty is sooner, and greater.

I did purchase a tube a grey RTV sealant. I had the idea of putting a small amount on the crack to fill it, then go around the stem with JB weld. But the fact I can't go all the way around worries me about its integrity.

I noticed as the bolt was coming out, it was at a slight angle, I guess from the bypass line pulling on it. So going back in, I questioned it going back in at an angle andit felt just as tight going in as it did coming out.

Does anyone have the banjo bolt and washer part number?

 

[dzljon]

Bare in mind, a number of the suggestions seem to be ignoring the fact that it seals on the face of that bore with a crush washer. Fixing the threads and not fixing the crack will just let the fluid hemorrhage out the crack. It must seal all the way up and to the face unless a banjo bolt is not used.

Dzljon.... simmer. You're basically telling Mark how to jack his own dick here...

To the OP, lesson learned.... don't just keep on keeping on when the bolt is cross-threaded. It's always dumb, but in cast aluminum the penalty is sooner, and greater.

first off i am not telling how to "jack his own dick" i am telling him how to weld cast aluminum, you can not mig weld it you either tig with the correct filler or you braze it! i already said if there is seals to cose to the heat effected zone disassemble it so you can to the repair correctly! but if you think trying to give advise on a solid repair is going to far the then i am done helping anyone here! you all have kow clue on repairing cast metals!

 

[Charles]

first off i am not telling how to "jack his own dick" i am telling him how to weld cast aluminum, you can not mig weld it you either tig with the correct filler or you braze it! i already said if there is seals to cose to the heat effected zone disassemble it so you can to the repair correctly! but if you think trying to give advise on a solid repair is going to far the then i am done helping anyone here! you all have kow clue on repairing cast metals!

The guy you said if he "claimed to be an engineer" was a part of the design for the G'damn 4R100 you twit. So yeah, telling him how to do _____ on a 4R100 is about like telling him how to jack his own dick!

His suggestion probably had something to do with the fact that if you don't have luck with something super simple like epoxy, then just TAKE THE G'DAMN TRANS APART and put it in a NEW CASE....

Who in the *** would go to that much trouble to dissemble the damn thing then just rig it back together with a porus weld that has a high probability of leaking or cracking? Just get a new freakin case at that point. That's the only non-rigged solution.

Once you step below that level, all bets are off. Gob whatever sh*t you can find at it. Arguing over what rigjob is "right" and which is "wrong" is moronic. Especially when you're doing it with someone who engineered the damn thing.

Holy sh*t...

lol.


I've tigged sh*t back together myself, so don't go there. In this situation you either Gob some sh*t at it, or tear it down and swap cases. All that other sh*t is just dumb. If you take it apart, then gob some sh*t at it and then put it BACK TOGETHER again, that's some real dumb ass decision making there. 4R100 cores are not exactly rare.

 

[dzljon]

The guy you said if he "claimed to be an engineer" was a part of the design for the G'damn 4R100 you twit. So yeah, telling him how to do _____ on a 4R100 is about like telling him how to jack his own dick!

His suggestion probably had something to do with the fact that if you don't have luck with something super simple like epoxy, then just TAKE THE G'DAMN TRANS APART and put it in a NEW CASE....

Who in the *** would go to that much trouble to dissemble the damn thing then just rig it back together with a porus weld that has a high probability of leaking or cracking? Just get a new freakin case at that point. That's the only non-rigged solution.

Once you step below that level, all bets are off. Gob whatever sh*t you can find at it. Arguing over what rigjob is "right" and which is "wrong" is moronic. Especially when you're doing it with someone who engineered the damn thing.

Holy sh*t...

lol.


I've tigged sh*t back together myself, so don't go there. In this situation you either Gob some sh*t at it, or tear it down and swap cases. All that other sh*t is just dumb. If you take it apart, then gob some sh*t at it and then put it BACK TOGETHER again, that's some real dumb ass decision making there. 4R100 cores are not exactly rare.

:clapping:

he may have engineered it to be functional but he does not know how to repair cast aluminum! you all keep doin what you are doin and i will do the same.

Charles you need to take a big step back and f*** your own face you f***tard