Cracked block and Block fill questions

lincolnlocker · Dec 6, 2018

psduser1 said:
Bawahaaaaaa:toast:

I was just reading that ad.

Not sure Jake could deal with a 6.0! His luck, the trans would force him into the shop, which would lead to the standard 6l problems, which would lead to the rear axle coming apart, which would lead to firm failure, which would lead to....
That's just his luck, no matter how how solid of a truck it is.

Lol. That's no chit!!

pipedobber said:
I’ve had way better luck repairing cast iron with 7018 than I have with nickel rod. 7018 is softer and seems to melt/bond into the cast in my opinion. I’m sure it’s been done both ways with success.

Dam. Another for 7018.. still not sure if i want to do that.. my luck, it will cack like a mofo..

live life full throttle

79jasper · Dec 6, 2018

Peen the hell out of it.

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lincolnlocker · Dec 7, 2018

79jasper said:
Peen the hell out of it.

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Nah.... im just going to drill each end of the crack, tap them and plug them then add a sealer to the coolant and see how that works out.

live life full throttle

DEEZUZ · Dec 7, 2018

Sealer? I'd bypass your heater core until that stuff subsides.

DEEZUZ · Dec 7, 2018

Assume your talking about using something like Bara stop leak? Def bypass your core for a bit. I still think a smear of a belzona grade epoxy would work

79jasper · Dec 7, 2018

I always preferred the "silver seal" if I had to use something.

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Zeb · Dec 8, 2018

CTC DEEZUL said:
bel-zona

I’m gonna add my vote for Belzona.
I’ve got a friend with a couple dozen restored hit and miss engines. I’ve seen him repair head bolt holes, cylinder walls, and egged out rod ends with that stuff.
The best was an old cylinder that had had water in it for a couple decades, and had tremendous pits in it. The piston was so seized in the bottom of the bore that it hung in his shop for several weeks with some concoction that he mixes up and swears will unstick anything. They finally managed to unstick, and beat the piston out, he Belzona’d the cylinder wall, honed it, and that motor runs again.

08Monster · Dec 8, 2018

Zeb said:
I’m gonna add my vote for Belzona.
I’ve got a friend with a couple dozen restored hit and miss engines. I’ve seen him repair head bolt holes, cylinder walls, and egged out rod ends with that stuff.
The best was an old cylinder that had had water in it for a couple decades, and had tremendous pits in it. The piston was so seized in the bottom of the bore that it hung in his shop for several weeks with some concoction that he mixes up and swears will unstick anything. They finally managed to unstick, and beat the piston out, he Belzona’d the cylinder wall, honed it, and that motor runs again.

I also agree for a non-weld fix. Belzona is absolutely unreal. We used it at CAT to fix worn out water grommets and deck surfaces on C15s. Stuff is tough.

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DEEZUZ · Dec 8, 2018

I used it on a 6.5 deck that was eroded by dexcool

PowerStrokePops · Dec 9, 2018

Belzona has many different products so do some research. I have used many of them working maintenance in refineries.

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lincolnlocker · Dec 10, 2018

I appreciate all the info fellas butYou guys forget that i said that this is temporary. It just needs to get me bye for a few weeks and im not going to put a couple hundred dollars into a block when i already have an offer for a free block to replace it with. I have to much money into this already. The plan for this truck after jim buys it will more than likely require a teardown anyway and then a complete block fill or a different block. So think of it as a emergency patch job on the side of the road. I just need it to stop leaking for a few weeks so that it doesn't make a mess where i park it every night. I wont be driving it home for the holidays. Ill be barrowing my girlfriends awd escape to do that.

live life full throttle

dsberman94 · Dec 10, 2018

Smear some ultra black on it and call it good for now.

Arisley · Dec 10, 2018

lincolnlocker said:
Nah.... im just going to drill each end of the crack, tap them and plug them then add a sealer to the coolant and see how that works out.

live life full throttle

I like this idea for a quick temp fix. I don't think you can bypass the heater core this time of the year though. Not unless you are a polar bear.

Magnum PD · Dec 10, 2018

Jake is from up north though

lincolnlocker · Dec 12, 2018

Magnum PD said:
Jake is from up north though

Andy knows... lol.. that is why he said it was the wrong time of the year... i actually do have valves plumbed into my core lines anyway. Been like that prior to me buying it. i can run it for a few heat/idle cycles with it blocked off... ole girl has been sitting for a few days now so i cracked the fumoto valve open on the oil pan just to make sure its not leaking internally. Lol... not a bit of coolant came out so if it is leaking internally then it is way slower then it is on the outside since there is a puddle under the truck.. lol.. fml....

live life full throttle

MeTo · Dec 16, 2018

A cure:
My vote is for brass; it's all about the metallurgy. Malleability and low tensile strength will allow brass to tolerate the thermal movement of the cast. Minimizing stress at the bond will reduce the potential for cracking. I will add, I have seen and done more brass welded cast than any other filler metal. When I was a lad, my father brazed a diesel block in an antique tractor. It's now 40 some years later and I have it. It's still holding.

A bandaid:
A few years ago, the head gasket in my 18 year old winter beater started weeping antifreeze. I dumped half a tube of Bar's Leaks in it and keep the degas bottle cap lose. I check occasionally for green snow when I back out the drive way, none yet.

Disclaimer
Don't listen to an old guy and his survival skills.

sootie · Dec 16, 2018

Yep I suggested that right off the bat...

tomlin · Feb 10, 2019

This works if you have the room to do it. http://www.locknstitch.com/engines-casting-repair-industry.html

lincolnlocker · Feb 10, 2019

tomlin said:
This works if you have the room to do it. http://www.locknstitch.com/engines-casting-repair-industry.html

Yeah i inquired about it. That cost as much as a 7.3 block alone.

live life full throttle

lincolnlocker · Feb 10, 2019

I ended up just drilling, taping, and plugging the ends of the crack and put some stop leak in it. As far as i know. It hasnt dripped on the ground yet. Just a small gray line out of the crack down the block so far.

live life full throttle