Dana 60 front axle u-joints?

[JohnT24]

1995 F350 XLT 7.3

What is the best front axle U-joints? spicer greasable or the "lifetime" non grease...?

also, is that the 1480?
thx

 

[ncollins64]

Not 1480, but check out branik Motorsports. Billet and lifetime warranty. Or you can just go with spicer tried and trued

 

[DEEZUZ]

Not 1480, but check out branik Motorsports. Billet and lifetime warranty. Or you can just go with spicer tried and trued

I just choked to ****ing death.

 

[DEEZUZ]

But good to know they are out of Fort Wayne IN lol

 

[JohnT24]

Yeah, a little overkill for a daily driver




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[6.7powersmoke]

Spicer life series non greaseable IMO

 

[JohnT24]

Well, I cheesed out and bought what NAPA had in stock. SKF / blue box import's
they have zerks... which I like.

I did the front driveshaft also.. the last zerk fitting inside the double carden joint near the transfer case is a challenge.... but I got in there.

Anyway, I got another possible problem .....

After installing the front AXLE u-joints / seals / bearings... Now I have a slight weep on the driver side coming out of the axle tube....


My guess is there is a seal near the diff. the axle slides into ?

I sprayed it with brake clean and keeping an eye on it..... But I fear the worst.

at least I know yanking the axle again will be easy since everything is fresh.

any input?

thanks.

 

[6.0 Tech]

Well, I cheesed out and bought what NAPA had in stock. SKF / blue box import's
they have zerks... which I like.

I did the front driveshaft also.. the last zerk fitting inside the double carden joint near the transfer case is a challenge.... but I got in there.

Anyway, I got another possible problem .....

After installing the front AXLE u-joints / seals / bearings... Now I have a slight weep on the driver side coming out of the axle tube....


My guess is there is a seal near the diff. the axle slides into ?

I sprayed it with brake clean and keeping an eye on it..... But I fear the worst.

at least I know yanking the axle again will be easy since everything is fresh.

any input?

thanks.

Yeah, there are inner axle seals inside the axle tubes. They’re kind of a pain in the ass. Requires pulling the carrier, and I’ve only done it with the tool from ford, but I’m sure there’s a way to South African engineer it to install the new seals


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[DEEZUZ]

Half inch ready rod, 2 nuts and big washers.

 

[JohnT24]

Half inch ready rod, 2 nuts and big washers.

OK,
so after after everything is off the wheel,
You push the rod/washers down the tube and knock out the old seal.....


what about Installing a new seal??

 

[DEEZUZ]

Nah,

The half inch rod and nuts is for pressing in the new seals. I've had luck just prying the old ones out with pry bar.

I have the actual tool for this but for dodge.. I've never had to use it for a Ford.

 

[JohnT24]

OK,

I'll have to research this....

thanks

 

[ncollins64]

I’m rebuilding a d60 out of a Superduty and I found this. It’s pretty cheap actually and simple to use. Just need long extensions to use it on the passenger side. It’s for the bearing/seal in the chunk, then you have a dust seal on the outer tube, then I think a vacuum seal inside the knuckle, unit bearing etc. I was able to get some greaseable spicers for the axle u joints. I still have to buy a damn ball joint press though, I’ve used cheap ones before and they just break. Who makes one that will hold up without the snap on price tag?

 

[DEEZUZ]

Otc

 

[JohnT24]

I found this for a little cheaper.

I think I can make it work with some threaded rod and a backer plate on the other end...

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[JohnT24]

You guys have any problem removing the carrier?
I read some comments that you "might" need a spreader tool to get it out / in ?

 

[JohnT24]

I have the actual tool for this but for dodge.. I've never had to use it for a Ford.

By looking at pics, It doesn't look that difficult to tap it in OR press it in flush.... If you use care.

 

[DEEZUZ]

 

[6.0 Tech]

You guys have any problem removing the carrier?
I read some comments that you "might" need a spreader tool to get it out / in ?

Not at all. Wrench on a ring gear bolt towards the top of the housing, and a pry bar on a bottom tooth of the ring gear and it will kinda roll out. To put it in, a good heavy dead blow and some solid whacks and it’ll go back in. A dead blow won’t damage anything, as it’s plastic. You can also use a brass hammer, but it’s easier to find dead blows I feel.


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