Dana 80 swap vs Repairing 10.25 Sterling..

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Who here has swapped a Dana 80 into an OBS and what was the best axle from which particular truck to locate.. My 10.25 needs a tone ring and I know once I get into it I know it's not just gonna be a tone ring replacement... Is it worth it to repair a 10.25 or just go up to Dana 80 and be done with it, I have a fairly mild 7.3 and I just got through building a full billet trans so I know the rearend is getting everything this slow 7.3 can dish lol.
 

Yan7gin

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Never done the D80 swap but what I would suggest is rebuild and upgrade to 10.5 aftermarket ring gear and pinion.


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Magnum PD

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Matching everything to the Dana 80 won't be easy. Mounts, yoke, parking brake cable, speedometer, then bleeding brakes.
 

ncollins64

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Unless it's getting a ton of abuse sled pulling, I'd put a good rebuild kit in the 10.25 with a true trac and run with it. I'd also weld the tubes and run some quality bars under there as well.
 
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I know finding one with the Speed sensor in the rear end is key, I know I wanna get a 1480 drive shaft built to fit, how long are these 10.25s lasting with halfway serious power on here?
 
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Unless it's getting a ton of abuse sled pulling, I'd put a good rebuild kit in the 10.25 with a true trac and run with it. I'd also weld the tubes and run some quality bars under there as well.
Hmm... That may be the future for this truck as I plan to get the lift off of it this spring after I clear some vehicles out. How did you 10.5 hold up to your engines that were laying down serious power?
 

Yan7gin

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Can't answer for the D80 vs 10.5 but i know the aftermarket setup use the best of the 10.5 and 10.25 witch make it really good. Its using the 10.5 ring gear and the pinion thickness of the 10.25 (witch need the bigger inner pinion bearing from 10.25) the rest is all the same


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ncollins64

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Fummins had a dana 80, the 6.4 had a sterling. Pulled the 6.4 several times and never had an issue. If it was a dedicated puller I would probably do a d80. Grab one out of a super duty, shorten it as needed, put your outers on there, run some dual splined axles and a locker. Holler at me this week and I'll direct you to a big driveline shop that's close to us
 
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Fummins had a dana 80, the 6.4 had a sterling. Pulled the 6.4 several times and never had an issue. If it was a dedicated puller I would probably do a d80. Grab one out of a super duty, shorten it as needed, put your outers on there, run some dual splined axles and a locker. Holler at me this week and I'll direct you to a big driveline shop that's close to us

10-4 will do... I wanna build for the future which is more important to me than just trying fix what I have.. I can rebuild my Sterling cheap but I want ultimate longevity and the ability to hook to a sled anytime and know I'm not gonna snap it to pieces with a few brush pulls here and there.. About a 5 months ago I retorqued my pinion nut while changing another toasted u-joint and thought about what would be the toughest route..
 

psmike

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ive been in the same boat.. was thinking maybe the 10.5 an disk brakes.. but then have to deal with the bolt pattern.. difference.. an was looking for a 80
 

ncollins64

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You can run a super duty 10.5 and just redrill the hubs to the older bolt pattern and make sure your perches and shock tabs are located correctly. Seen this done a few times.
 
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I wonder if the hubs on a 10.5 are the same bearing and race configuration and you can just swap your hubs over.. I don't care about the disc brakes all that much.. My drums last too long as is, and never really had a braking issue, I may have one bought tomorrow if guy calls out a 1990 Fsuperduty cab and chassis with the 10 lug hubs.. I'll have to see if the speed sensor is in the rear diff though.
 

lincolnlocker

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why not just swapp to superduty axles? front and rear?

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
 
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Ain't no way I'm giving up my grease bearing true D60 front axle... One set of wheel bearings, races, seals, and ball joints in 450,000 miles.. Two sets of tie rods and a set of track bar bushings 7 years ago... I have to say the OBS front axle is one stout axle and since I have owned it and since it had 12,000 miles on it, it has had 35 inch tires on it.. I regeared back in 2010 for 4.10s and the front diff was in perfect shape at 230,000 miles.
 

rusty1161

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I wonder if the hubs on a 10.5 are the same bearing and race configuration and you can just swap your hubs over.. I don't care about the disc brakes all that much.. My drums last too long as is, and never really had a braking issue, I may have one bought tomorrow if guy calls out a 1990 Fsuperduty cab and chassis with the 10 lug hubs.. I'll have to see if the speed sensor is in the rear diff though.

Hubs, bearings and races are different, so swapping the whole axle and having the hubs modded with custom studs worked. All the info you need is here http://www.powerstrokenation.com/fo.../115781-10-5-superduty-rear-hubs-8-6-5-a.html

Rusty
 
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If overall robustness and reliability is what your after then go Dana 80. I went through 3 10.5s before going 80 in my truck and have yet to have any issues. Granted I also went full locker, welded tubes, girdle cover, chromoly axle shafts, and treated gears, and billet 1480 yoke. The Dana 80 is a much larger unit and has a larger diameter pinion with better pinion bearing placement than the 10s

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Strokin572

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Complete performance just released a disc brake kit for 10.25s FWIW. That's about all I have to contribute lol. I'm just here to watch the rest of the discussion now
 

not enoughsmoke

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speed sensor is easy just reinstall the old one TAA DAAA

personally I would look at the AAM 11.5 in 03 and up dodges. They are a lot bigger(if it was a posi it was a trutrac factory) and flat flange driveshaft instead of dinky bolts and straps
 
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m j

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dana 80 is better then a sterling but if you eliminate the crush sleeve you will never hurt the sterling IMO
how did you break a tone ring? its a non wearing item
 
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