Dieselsite thermostat housing

revolvingsteel · Aug 27, 2012

Do I need longer bolts for the billet housing that dieselsite sells? If so what size bolts do I need? I couldn't find an answer anywhere searching it. I have got one ordered and realized its quite a bit thicker. Thanks!

DEEZUZ · Aug 27, 2012

Nope. Factory ones work fine. Be sure to torque it to factory spec... Which has slipped my mind...

Arisley · Aug 28, 2012

Factory ones worked fine. I did not use a torque wrench on mine. Simply good and snug plus a little grunt with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet.

brian89 · Aug 28, 2012

Same here, german specs, gud an tiht

Jomax · Aug 28, 2012

brian89 said:
Same here, german specs, gud an tiht

That's all I use!

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powerstrokenstang · Aug 28, 2012

Off topic but know a guy needing one, is the dieselsite one much diff in cost than one from ford?

brian89 · Aug 28, 2012

Its only $30 if i remember correctly

ToMang07 · Aug 28, 2012

powerstrokenstang said:
Off topic but know a guy needing one, is the dieselsite one much diff in cost than one from ford?

It's billet aluminum, versus stamped steel. Much better quality.

revolvingsteel · Aug 28, 2012

Good to know! Thanks fellers. I tend to use the calibrated hand method! At least for bolts like this.

ToMang07 · Aug 28, 2012

revolvingsteel said:
Good to know! Thanks fellers. I tend to use the calibrated hand method! At least for bolts like this.

Be careful you don't snap them. I used PB Blaster and let it soak a bit before I took them out, very tight and rusted.

revolvingsteel · Aug 28, 2012

Thanks, yea I figured I would need to soak em. Just in case anyone does want to know the torque spec in my Haynes says 18 ft/lbs.

TARM · Aug 29, 2012

When you install them I recommend using some anti-sieze. Make sure to get it over the full length of the threads. As the pump housing is alum and you are using steel alloy bolts they will gall, rust, and seize up. You then end up breaking them off. I have actually gotten to the point of using it or loctite on many bolts depending on use.

TyCorr · Aug 29, 2012

TARM said:
When you install them I recommend using some anti-sieze. Make sure to get it over the full length of the threads. As the pump housing is alum and you are using steel alloy bolts they will gall, rust, and seize up. You then end up breaking them off. I have actually gotten to the point of using it or loctite on many bolts depending on use.

I had to heat my tstat housing bolts.

TARM · Aug 29, 2012

I just had one of the AC comp bolts break on me from this. I spent two days allowing it to soak in PB, banged on it, heated it etc.. Finally I just broke it off and dealt with the extra work. Needless to say they got a nice coating of anti-seize when they went back in.

TyCorr · Aug 29, 2012

TARM said:
I just had one of the AC comp bolts break on me from this. I spent two days allowing it to soak in PB, banged on it, heated it etc.. Finally I just broke it off and dealt with the extra work. Needless to say they got a nice coating of anti-seize when they went back in.

As bad as an exhaust manifold bolt?

revolvingsteel · Aug 29, 2012

Ah yes, anti-sieze for reinstall good call. Thanks tarm! Hope I don't have to resort to heat to get em out but I'm prepared to if need be.

TARM · Aug 29, 2012

TyCorr said:
As bad as an exhaust manifold bolt?

Only because its a very long thin for its length bolts. You can literally twist them in two right where the threads and smooth shank meet. This is with nothing more than one of those stubby short socket wrench so next to no extra leverage.